strange rear noise
#1
strange rear noise
good morning. I've been hearing a loud noise from the rear for quite some time. The noise appears between approximately 30 and 50kmh and the car must be warm and have traveled some kilometers. The hand brake adjustment has been reset and the differential oil has been changed. keeps making the noise. I'll give you a link so you can listen to it. I have many videos but in this one that I share with you you can see a very clear metallic friction. In the video the noise sounds from the beginning but there is a moment when it stops and you can see the difference in noise driving at the same speed. I hope you can give me some help because I am desperate. I fear it is the differential
https://youtube.com/shorts/RrtFmkDZNJ0?si=QJUeW4_E1-23rSUT
https://youtube.com/shorts/RrtFmkDZNJ0?si=QJUeW4_E1-23rSUT
#2
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Naperville, Illinois USA
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Not sure, but it could be the shroud where the drive shaft enters the differential. There’s a thread somewhere where the owner found that shroud was loose and spinning on the drive shaft. IIRC, he removed it, considering replacement later.
Your noise sounds different than my howling diff, which has been howling since I bought the car about 10 years ago.
edit: Ok, here’s one thread on a loose dust shield:
Loose dust shield
Your noise sounds different than my howling diff, which has been howling since I bought the car about 10 years ago.
edit: Ok, here’s one thread on a loose dust shield:
Loose dust shield
Last edited by kj07xk; 07-17-2024 at 06:49 AM.
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Don B (08-12-2024)
#3
#4
#5
#6
Good evening everyone. I'm getting back to the thread because the situation is, to say the least, desperate. The noise problem was not from the brake pads or discs or the electric brake. I tried replacing the differential oil and it didn't work either. The hubs or wheel hubs have recently been replaced. It's getting louder and louder, longer, but nobody sees anything. Neither at the official home nor at a trusted workshop... Today they have suggested to me if there are drive shafts.
I'm going to attach 4 videos recorded half an hour ago where the noise can be heard perfectly. Please, any help is valid. Thank you and have a good summer!!
... tV52cvVe7b
... DLU68nShWm
... VXm489TI3x
It also makes noise from inside. But the sound is very muffled and no microphone picks it up.
I repeat that the noise is more noticeable between 30km/h and 50km/h but there is no defined pattern. It can be when accelerating or when the car is coasting. In curves or going straight. The thing is that it is very loud and quite unpleasant.
I'm going to attach 4 videos recorded half an hour ago where the noise can be heard perfectly. Please, any help is valid. Thank you and have a good summer!!
It also makes noise from inside. But the sound is very muffled and no microphone picks it up.
I repeat that the noise is more noticeable between 30km/h and 50km/h but there is no defined pattern. It can be when accelerating or when the car is coasting. In curves or going straight. The thing is that it is very loud and quite unpleasant.
#7
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#9
In addition to the pads riding on the rotor, another thing to check is the dust shield on the brakes. After I had my front control arms replaced, the mechanic left the dust shield loose (or slightly bent), and it was coming into contact with the rotor resulting in a whispery metal on metal sound like that. Mine was especially loud as I was cornering, but I could also hear it while going straight because of the natural play in the wheels.
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Don B (08-12-2024)
#10
#11
I have changed the wheel bearings… as far as I can see, all that remains is the drive shaft and rear differential. The rear suspension is normal… right? It is not electromagnetic like the front.
#12
In addition to the pads riding on the rotor, another thing to check is the dust shield on the brakes. After I had my front control arms replaced, the mechanic left the dust shield loose (or slightly bent), and it was coming into contact with the rotor resulting in a whispery metal on metal sound like that. Mine was especially loud as I was cornering, but I could also hear it while going straight because of the natural play in the wheels.
#13
I don't understand why the noise is so difficult for a garage to identify. I assume that they have lifted the car and looked for tell-tale scrape marks but they seem to have only done half the job.
Step I is to run the car up to speed so it is making the noise, ideally going down a hill, and then slip it into neutral for a few seconds. You could even kill the engine for a few seconds if road conditions allow. I would expect that the noise will continue but if it stops then you have isolated it as something to do with the engine and/or something that requires an input into the diff through the prop shaft.
Step 2 would be to securely mount the vehicle on a lift with all four wheels off the ground and run the engine whilst taking it through the gears. If the noise is gone, then it is something that requires the wheels to be on the ground and the suspension compressed. This will trigger a lot of traction control faults but they can all be deleted later.
If the noise is still there, as I suspect it will be, you can do things like gently applying the brakes and slowing the wheels down and just listening around the wheels, axles and diff. The source of the noise will be obvious. Just remember to keep clear of the spinning wheels and shafts.
Richard
Step I is to run the car up to speed so it is making the noise, ideally going down a hill, and then slip it into neutral for a few seconds. You could even kill the engine for a few seconds if road conditions allow. I would expect that the noise will continue but if it stops then you have isolated it as something to do with the engine and/or something that requires an input into the diff through the prop shaft.
Step 2 would be to securely mount the vehicle on a lift with all four wheels off the ground and run the engine whilst taking it through the gears. If the noise is gone, then it is something that requires the wheels to be on the ground and the suspension compressed. This will trigger a lot of traction control faults but they can all be deleted later.
If the noise is still there, as I suspect it will be, you can do things like gently applying the brakes and slowing the wheels down and just listening around the wheels, axles and diff. The source of the noise will be obvious. Just remember to keep clear of the spinning wheels and shafts.
Richard
Last edited by RichardS; 08-07-2024 at 02:50 AM.
#14
I don't understand why the noise is so difficult for a garage to identify. I assume that they have lifted the car and looked for tell-tale scrape marks but they seem to have only done half the job.
Step I is to run the car up to speed so it is making the noise, ideally going down a hill, and then slip it into neutral for a few seconds. You could even kill the engine for a few seconds if road conditions allow. I would expect that the noise will continue but if it stops then you have isolated it as something to do with the engine and/or something that requires an input into the diff through the prop shaft.
Step 2 would be to securely mount the vehicle on a lift with all four wheels off the ground and run the engine whilst taking it through the gears. If the noise is gone, then it is something that requires the wheels to be on the ground and the suspension compressed. This will trigger a lot of traction control faults but they can all be deleted later.
If the noise is still there, as I suspect it will be, you can do things like gently applying the brakes and slowing the wheels down and just listening around the wheels, axles and diff. The source of the noise will be obvious. Just remember to keep clear of the spinning wheels and shafts.
Richard
Step I is to run the car up to speed so it is making the noise, ideally going down a hill, and then slip it into neutral for a few seconds. You could even kill the engine for a few seconds if road conditions allow. I would expect that the noise will continue but if it stops then you have isolated it as something to do with the engine and/or something that requires an input into the diff through the prop shaft.
Step 2 would be to securely mount the vehicle on a lift with all four wheels off the ground and run the engine whilst taking it through the gears. If the noise is gone, then it is something that requires the wheels to be on the ground and the suspension compressed. This will trigger a lot of traction control faults but they can all be deleted later.
If the noise is still there, as I suspect it will be, you can do things like gently applying the brakes and slowing the wheels down and just listening around the wheels, axles and diff. The source of the noise will be obvious. Just remember to keep clear of the spinning wheels and shafts.
Richard
best regards
#15
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guy (08-14-2024)
#16
Indeed! the discs and pads were replaced on the front axle and, checking the invoices, only the pads on the rear axle. Seeing all this, in the end it will be rear discs and pads, but looking at specialized websites I see that there are various sizes of pads, which one do you recommend? The disc size is clear: 326mm and 20mm thick. I bought the car in April. I don't know what noise it made before, but I always thought that the rear discs had been changed. There is no wear on the front side.
#17
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Location: Naperville, Illinois USA
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Don B (08-12-2024)
#18
Zimmerman makes nice affordable zinc coated rotors for our cars.
Here are the part #'s for 2009 - 2015 :
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jag...erman-c2d26352
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jag...erman-c2c25337
Brake pads are a personal choice... dust vs "bite". I have brembo pads currently on my xk... they work great and are low dust, but don't have great "bite"
Brembo P59042N
Brembo P36027N
Here are the part #'s for 2009 - 2015 :
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jag...erman-c2d26352
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jag...erman-c2c25337
Brake pads are a personal choice... dust vs "bite". I have brembo pads currently on my xk... they work great and are low dust, but don't have great "bite"
Brembo P59042N
Brembo P36027N
#19
I don't understand why the noise is so difficult for a garage to identify. I assume that they have lifted the car and looked for tell-tale scrape marks but they seem to have only done half the job.
Step I is to run the car up to speed so it is making the noise, ideally going down a hill, and then slip it into neutral for a few seconds. You could even kill the engine for a few seconds if road conditions allow. I would expect that the noise will continue but if it stops then you have isolated it as something to do with the engine and/or something that requires an input into the diff through the prop shaft.
Step 2 would be to securely mount the vehicle on a lift with all four wheels off the ground and run the engine whilst taking it through the gears. If the noise is gone, then it is something that requires the wheels to be on the ground and the suspension compressed. This will trigger a lot of traction control faults but they can all be deleted later.
If the noise is still there, as I suspect it will be, you can do things like gently applying the brakes and slowing the wheels down and just listening around the wheels, axles and diff. The source of the noise will be obvious. Just remember to keep clear of the spinning wheels and shafts.
Richard
Step I is to run the car up to speed so it is making the noise, ideally going down a hill, and then slip it into neutral for a few seconds. You could even kill the engine for a few seconds if road conditions allow. I would expect that the noise will continue but if it stops then you have isolated it as something to do with the engine and/or something that requires an input into the diff through the prop shaft.
Step 2 would be to securely mount the vehicle on a lift with all four wheels off the ground and run the engine whilst taking it through the gears. If the noise is gone, then it is something that requires the wheels to be on the ground and the suspension compressed. This will trigger a lot of traction control faults but they can all be deleted later.
If the noise is still there, as I suspect it will be, you can do things like gently applying the brakes and slowing the wheels down and just listening around the wheels, axles and diff. The source of the noise will be obvious. Just remember to keep clear of the spinning wheels and shafts.
Richard
And as for the OP - does this issue persist at 50-60-70kph and HARD braking? Try to get the sound to happen at the tiiiiippy top of its vocal range (assuming the sound goes away as you drive faster and faster) and then hit your brakes to see if that muffles the sound or stops the sound completely. If a ton of extra pressure from the brake pad onto the disc (as you press the brake pedal) alleviates any of this sound as you slow your car down into the range of speed that NORMALLY your issue-sound would be blaringly loud, then good chance it is brake related. That would give you peace of mind going into replacing discs/pads for the rears if that ended up being the case. I always found it rather easy to diagnose brake issues just given that you can control them with a lever. Best of luck!
Last edited by SNAPCHAT; 08-09-2024 at 02:24 AM.