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So headed out to lunch after letting the car warm up 10 min or so (s'cold here), and CEL blew up in my face!! Noooo!!!
Anyways so whipped into an AutoZone, just one code came back, P0077, Bank 1 VVT Actuator or some such.
Read in another thread here that low batt voltage is the source for a lot of issues, especially where CELs are involved. So I will check batt first thing when I get home. May very well be original to the car. But certainly open to any ideas, or input or any one with experience with this particular code.
Should add that car is running seemingly normally. Even attempted an Italian tune up on the way back to work. CEL remains. Runs great actually, even got lil squirrelly when I punched it 😁
Thanks!!
I checked my battery over and over voltage and amp draw bought a centec battery tender still problem after problem. I finally dropped 190.00 dollars on new battery. No more codes no more traction or DSC unavailble errors. Batteries are cheaper than towing battery tender no longer needed etc. Good luck.
I checked my battery over and over voltage and amp draw bought a centec battery tender still problem after problem. I finally dropped 190.00 dollars on new battery. No more codes no more traction or DSC unavailble errors. Batteries are cheaper than towing battery tender no longer needed etc. Good luck.
Battery is on the list. I have a few gremlins that have occurred recently, mostly passenger window acting funny and center screen on instrument cluster sometimes not illuminating. Hoping a new battery will sort those as well. I have been digging into the forum and trying to decide whether to go AGM or flooded. The basic flooded cell batteries are a might cheaper.
As for the DTC, I followed jahummer's advice to find more suitable equipment. I found an independent nearby that specializes in Euro brands and had a proper reader. Thankfully they were super helpful and checked it for free, he suspected battery issue as well. DTC came up different (I can't recall exactly, so I won't butcher it trying from memory) than what generic brand pulled, but he was able to clear it and it hasn't been back thus far. Told me if light comes on again come on back and they'll dig into it a bit deeper.
So for the time being, I'll chalk it up to a hiccup or another gremlin and hope it doesn't return. If so, ill post another update here, and the fix.
Check the voltage at the battery terminals with a voltmeter and the ignition in the OFF position. There should be a minimum of 12.6 volts present for the vehicle to operate properly.
Check the voltage at the battery terminals with a voltmeter and the ignition in the OFF position. There should be a minimum of 12.6 volts present for the vehicle to operate properly.
Did it this way when I checked it yesterday morning after sitting the night. I read 12.31 at the terminals, ign off, hatch open.
If after a full charge or CTEK minder says it is completely charged and you still see 12.3 volts, well, battery likely done. The car was intended to have a standard flooded battery.
If after a full charge or CTEK minder says it is completely charged and you still see 12.3 volts, well, battery likely done. The car was intended to have a standard flooded battery.
Thanks again for the info.
Unfortunately, that hateful, mocking, little orange light dared show itself again this morning on my way to work. Had it on my ctek all of last night. Checked it before leaving, it was in the green but not complete, so will hook it back up tonight after work, see if I can't get it to 100% Did happen to also check it with multimeter, 12.38V (was cold last night, around 21°F).
I will check again once I'm home to see if any significant drop. It's just going to sit out in the cold parking lot for 12 hrs.
Unfortunately will not be able to have car checked out properly until next weekend. Will get a battery until then should 2nd attempt at full charge fail.
Owning one of these great cars is unlike any other...and that's not ego talking. It's about care as well as the driving experience, and the additional invigoration of learning.
There's valuable insight and information on this forum about battery drains, diagnosis, and necessary (but non-intuitive) recharge protocols that are worth researching. I believe some were in the S-Type and XJ threads.
My chronic drain turned out to be a short in the sound system's amp (which is $500 to replace) so we disconnected it, went through the recharge protocol, and everything worked fine.
I'm not someone who could buy new, but I always admired these, so when the opportunity presented itself, I bought mine used "for a song" It was in wonderful cosmetic condition and practically fell into my lap, on my birthday, no joke... because the battery wouldn't hold a charge and it ran rough. It had been donated by the 3rd owner out of frustration, and I decided to take a chance, since the funds went to a good cause. (It's a 2005) A VIN check showed the 1st owner had it for 12 years and traded it in for another Cat. Then it was bought and sold quickly by a second, who traded it in on a new BMW. The last (3rd) owner bought it as a trade-in from the BMW dealership who did the surface prep and put a new battery in. When problems arose after the 30-day "Lemon Law" had expired, they tried to have it serviced at that BMW shop and Jiffy Lube...and likely become so frustrated, they basically gave it away. The Battery and terminals were bright shiny, and new but would not hold a charge and it was running very rough (is this beginning to sound familiar?).
Luckily my neighbor owned an Indy Jag Shop. I limped into the shop immediately after purchase, asked him to do a once over, diagnose the 2 issues I already knew about, and if it were going to be a "money pit" I was going to put a for sale sign on it and let it become someone else's problem. It turned out to be the battery drain was due to a short in the sound system's amp (noted above-we disconnected it), and he knew how to reset the system so it would hold a charge...you'll find that info here in this forum as well), and one of the 8 ignition coils was dead...a $20 part. So I got her purring for less than $100 and we devised a priority list of things to address, which were pretty much regular maintenance items (with Jag particulars).
I also learned that the system is so sensitive and precisely designed, it usually throws codes well in advance of a disaster, so you can stop, get the codes, learn if it's urgent or not and proceed accordingly, which balances out the usual "panic" sensation of that bright orange code on the dash of your beloved ride (...and that latter part is new to me. I've always been super practical and appreciated a good dependable, well designed car before, but never like this...). Example of taking a deep breath: My "front indicator light battery" code has been on for weeks because the sensor did it's job, so I just need to replace the bulb....and when the code came on for a radiator temp issue, it was clearly urgent and I knew to bring it in for service right away.
You need an ally (there are many here), the right code reader, and someone you trust locally to work on this car (and any car you own) unless you can do it yourself.
These Cats are not built like other cars. Most have been "ahead of their time" in terms of engineering, performance, sensitivity, ambience, and comfort (there are sensors for everything...which is why they purr along so beautifully...and quickly), but they're not engineered like any other euro performance/luxury cars either. BMW, Mercedes, Italian, Japanese, and US shops do not have the info to work with these unless they've made a point of educating themselves (there's a certification involved), or have engineering/mechanical background and have taken them on as personal projects....and still, each one is different from the next.
In the last few years, many Jag Shops have shifted their focus (along with mainstream lifestyle) to Land Rovers (same manufacturer) to maximize cash flow, but will still work on these, and many who still specialize in Jags, also work on other Brits; Astons' and Rolls' and McLarens.
If you buy a new Cat the warranties are solid and include thousands in regular maintenance and oil changes you'd pay for out of pocket with a Toyota, Honda, or Ford. Many who buy a "re-homed" Cat (after warranty) don't want to, cannot budget for upkeep and normal wear, and aren't willing to learn to care for them personally, so get rid of them out of frustration. So, the sale prices can be quite attractive...but get the VIN and do your "due diligence" and be willing to learn and ask for help when you need it.
These are such amazing vehicles that run so well and are such a pleasure and (a rush) to drive, and when properly cared for and maintained can last a lifetime. I know someone who inherited two that were well maintained, and are still happily driving them 15 years later.
If they've not been driven and maintained with care, they need some patience and TLC from someone who understands these cars and knows them, and the onus is on the owner to suss that out.
Most mainstream mechanics who survive on volume and turnover aren't willing to take the time to learn what the Jag and other British, Italian, and German car pros have to get certified in to work with the cars they specialize in...or even an act of regular maintenance. Over time, the US considered Honda's, Toyotas, Volvos, Saabs, and Volkswagens "exotic" but were far easier to figure out than higher performing Euro makes.
Cats have been thoroughly designed to perform with a lot of aspects and components that aren't introduced to the mainstream until decades later...and also have regular maintenance and repair needs just like other makes with more details to consider. Parts and repairs can be super specific to each model, year, trim type, and often a series of VIN, so you need to gather and provide that info to any mechanic who works on your Cat so they can research and order the correct parts. If you take it to someone and they aren't willing to listen...they shouldn't be working on your car, because they won't know what to order, how to remove and replace common and uncommon parts, and may actually cause more problems.
If you're not independently wealthy enough for the dealer (or even if you are, and don't like being ripped off) it's very well worth it to take the time to educate yourself about the basics, search the forums, ask questions, weigh in the replies, and find a good, honest Indy mechanic who knows your Jag and it's specific needs...because it becomes money, time, gas, and a lot of grief saved later on...leading to an amazing joyful driving experience.
My trusty Jag Shop guy in Portland (where I used to live) gave me some great advice when I moved to CA (where he grew up and learned the ropes): when shopping for an honest shop that knows Jags, call me to so I can check with my parts supplier to see who orders the most Jag parts, check out their reviews online and specialty blog sites (like this one..there's a section for that here), and take it in for a full service oil change/meet and greet to check them out BEFORE you allow any work to be done...and in my experience, be forewarned that many Jag owners guard their go-to mechanics like a fisherman's secret spot lol...
Case in point: I'd already moved away and needed new front brake pads. Simple, right? I researched them here to find out what was original and what would be suitable substitutes, and was assured any qualified shop could do the work (but warned to stay away from chain establishments). I priced the parts and availability online before making an appointment at a reputable local mainstream shop with great reviews that did brakes. I gave them the VIN, make, model, year, trim info, part #'s, manufacturer, and website info so they could order the correct part and be ready to do the work. I called to confirm everything was ready, was assured the parts were already there waiting, dropped off the car, and organized rides to/from work expecting to return by closing time and be ready to go, only to discover they'd ignored the info I provided and ordered the wrong parts (which required 3-4 days shipping due to COVID), wasting everyone's time, so I moved on.
Another example: There are mainstream Indy shops willing to do the research and work, but will also figure you're filthy rich because you own a Jag and try to rip you off by loosening hoses when you go in for an oil change and try to sell you a new water pump... (don't trust anyone in Santa Barbara with your Jag).
You need someone you can trust, and also need to be willing to learn about your car, have the right code reader and tools, download the schematics and manual, book mark the u tube how-to links to have for yourself or provide to an honest mechanic if you can't do it yourself, and be willing to order/provide the parts if needed and pay them fairly for their installation time.
Jag dx codes and systems are also proprietary, like the engineering, so Auto Zone can't give you anything but a general focus...which is better than nothing, but not enough, and the Jag computer time can be pricey, especially for a simple issue. Thankfully, you can purchase a code reader that does give you specific codes for Jags reasonably (it's mentioned in these forums and it will pay for itself), then research code meanings online (again search this forum for info), and manage to function intelligently.
I'm a blonde female, and have experienced all the stereotypical attidudes (typo intentional), and jokes surrounding car buying, ownership, and repairs...and dated a mechanic back on the day, who educated me about how to rise above it without the drama. I've managed to save about 5K in the 2 years since adopting my Cat by being curious, researching, and asking questions. The second thing I had to learn after the initial purchase fixes was what "left bank" and "right bank" means in terms of acceleration and fuel injection lol. My guy at the shop gave me a high five for that one and appreciated that I cared enough to learn and participate in getting to know the cars he loved enough to make a career of and support his family with.
Empower yourself so you can manage as much as you can on your own, and walk into a qualified shop with a smile and enough info to address what's needed fairly and cooperatively. It'll be satisfying, fun, and save you a bundle.
Last edited by Susie Q; 01-09-2021 at 06:47 PM.
Reason: more info, typos
Nice article. Informative. But you are in the wrong Forum. You have an X100. This is the X150 Forum. Perhaps a moderator will move your post to the proper forum.
Nice article. Informative. But you are in the wrong Forum. You have an X100. This is the X150 Forum. Perhaps a moderator will move your post to the proper forum.
She (assuming since Susie Q) has a 2005 S-Type 4.2.
Also, most of what she has said is generic and not necessarily model specific.
She (assuming since Susie Q) has a 2005 S-Type 4.2.
Also, most of what she has said is generic and not necessarily model specific.
I was replying to MOPAR GUY, who's dealing with a universal issue and impending level of concern that is also not model specific.
We are fortunate to enjoy this welcoming community.
Owning one of these great cars is unlike any other...and that's not ego talking. It's about care as well as the driving experience, and the additional invigoration of learning.
There's valuable insight and information on this forum about battery drains, diagnosis, and necessary (but non-intuitive) recharge protocols that are worth researching. I believe some were in the S-Type and XJ threads.
My chronic drain turned out to be a short in the sound system's amp (which is $500 to replace) so we disconnected it, went through the recharge protocol, and everything worked fine.
I'm not someone who could buy new, but I always admired these, so when the opportunity presented itself, I bought mine used "for a song" It was in wonderful cosmetic condition and practically fell into my lap, on my birthday, no joke... because the battery wouldn't hold a charge and it ran rough. It had been donated by the 3rd owner out of frustration, and I decided to take a chance, since the funds went to a good cause. (It's a 2005) A VIN check showed the 1st owner had it for 12 years and traded it in for another Cat. Then it was bought and sold quickly by a second, who traded it in on a new BMW. The last (3rd) owner bought it as a trade-in from the BMW dealership who did the surface prep and put a new battery in. When problems arose after the 30-day "Lemon Law" had expired, they tried to have it serviced at that BMW shop and Jiffy Lube...and likely become so frustrated, they basically gave it away. The Battery and terminals were bright shiny, and new but would not hold a charge and it was running very rough (is this beginning to sound familiar?).
Luckily my neighbor owned an Indy Jag Shop. I limped into the shop immediately after purchase, asked him to do a once over, diagnose the 2 issues I already knew about, and if it were going to be a "money pit" I was going to put a for sale sign on it and let it become someone else's problem. It turned out to be the battery drain was due to a short in the sound system's amp (noted above-we disconnected it), and he knew how to reset the system so it would hold a charge...you'll find that info here in this forum as well), and one of the 8 ignition coils was dead...a $20 part. So I got her purring for less than $100 and we devised a priority list of things to address, which were pretty much regular maintenance items (with Jag particulars).
I also learned that the system is so sensitive and precisely designed, it usually throws codes well in advance of a disaster, so you can stop, get the codes, learn if it's urgent or not and proceed accordingly, which balances out the usual "panic" sensation of that bright orange code on the dash of your beloved ride (...and that latter part is new to me. I've always been super practical and appreciated a good dependable, well designed car before, but never like this...). Example of taking a deep breath: My "front indicator light battery" code has been on for weeks because the sensor did it's job, so I just need to replace the bulb....and when the code came on for a radiator temp issue, it was clearly urgent and I knew to bring it in for service right away.
You need an ally (there are many here), the right code reader, and someone you trust locally to work on this car (and any car you own) unless you can do it yourself.
These Cats are not built like other cars. Most have been "ahead of their time" in terms of engineering, performance, sensitivity, ambience, and comfort (there are sensors for everything...which is why they purr along so beautifully...and quickly), but they're not engineered like any other euro performance/luxury cars either. BMW, Mercedes, Italian, Japanese, and US shops do not have the info to work with these unless they've made a point of educating themselves (there's a certification involved), or have engineering/mechanical background and have taken them on as personal projects....and still, each one is different from the next.
In the last few years, many Jag Shops have shifted their focus (along with mainstream lifestyle) to Land Rovers (same manufacturer) to maximize cash flow, but will still work on these, and many who still specialize in Jags, also work on other Brits; Astons' and Rolls' and McLarens.
If you buy a new Cat the warranties are solid and include thousands in regular maintenance and oil changes you'd pay for out of pocket with a Toyota, Honda, or Ford. Many who buy a "re-homed" Cat (after warranty) don't want to, cannot budget for upkeep and normal wear, and aren't willing to learn to care for them personally, so get rid of them out of frustration. So, the sale prices can be quite attractive...but get the VIN and do your "due diligence" and be willing to learn and ask for help when you need it.
These are such amazing vehicles that run so well and are such a pleasure and (a rush) to drive, and when properly cared for and maintained can last a lifetime. I know someone who inherited two that were well maintained, and are still happily driving them 15 years later.
If they've not been driven and maintained with care, they need some patience and TLC from someone who understands these cars and knows them, and the onus is on the owner to suss that out.
Most mainstream mechanics who survive on volume and turnover aren't willing to take the time to learn what the Jag and other British, Italian, and German car pros have to get certified in to work with the cars they specialize in...or even an act of regular maintenance. Over time, the US considered Honda's, Toyotas, Volvos, Saabs, and Volkswagens "exotic" but were far easier to figure out than higher performing Euro makes.
Cats have been thoroughly designed to perform with a lot of aspects and components that aren't introduced to the mainstream until decades later...and also have regular maintenance and repair needs just like other makes with more details to consider. Parts and repairs can be super specific to each model, year, trim type, and often a series of VIN, so you need to gather and provide that info to any mechanic who works on your Cat so they can research and order the correct parts. If you take it to someone and they aren't willing to listen...they shouldn't be working on your car, because they won't know what to order, how to remove and replace common and uncommon parts, and may actually cause more problems.
If you're not independently wealthy enough for the dealer (or even if you are, and don't like being ripped off) it's very well worth it to take the time to educate yourself about the basics, search the forums, ask questions, weigh in the replies, and find a good, honest Indy mechanic who knows your Jag and it's specific needs...because it becomes money, time, gas, and a lot of grief saved later on...leading to an amazing joyful driving experience.
My trusty Jag Shop guy in Portland (where I used to live) gave me some great advice when I moved to CA (where he grew up and learned the ropes): when shopping for an honest shop that knows Jags, call me to so I can check with my parts supplier to see who orders the most Jag parts, check out their reviews online and specialty blog sites (like this one..there's a section for that here), and take it in for a full service oil change/meet and greet to check them out BEFORE you allow any work to be done...and in my experience, be forewarned that many Jag owners guard their go-to mechanics like a fisherman's secret spot lol...
Case in point: I'd already moved away and needed new front brake pads. Simple, right? I researched them here to find out what was original and what would be suitable substitutes, and was assured any qualified shop could do the work (but warned to stay away from chain establishments). I priced the parts and availability online before making an appointment at a reputable local mainstream shop with great reviews that did brakes. I gave them the VIN, make, model, year, trim info, part #'s, manufacturer, and website info so they could order the correct part and be ready to do the work. I called to confirm everything was ready, was assured the parts were already there waiting, dropped off the car, and organized rides to/from work expecting to return by closing time and be ready to go, only to discover they'd ignored the info I provided and ordered the wrong parts (which required 3-4 days shipping due to COVID), wasting everyone's time, so I moved on.
Another example: There are mainstream Indy shops willing to do the research and work, but will also figure you're filthy rich because you own a Jag and try to rip you off by loosening hoses when you go in for an oil change and try to sell you a new water pump... (don't trust anyone in Santa Barbara with your Jag).
You need someone you can trust, and also need to be willing to learn about your car, have the right code reader and tools, download the schematics and manual, book mark the u tube how-to links to have for yourself or provide to an honest mechanic if you can't do it yourself, and be willing to order/provide the parts if needed and pay them fairly for their installation time.
Jag dx codes and systems are also proprietary, like the engineering, so Auto Zone can't give you anything but a general focus...which is better than nothing, but not enough, and the Jag computer time can be pricey, especially for a simple issue. Thankfully, you can purchase a code reader that does give you specific codes for Jags reasonably (it's mentioned in these forums and it will pay for itself), then research code meanings online (again search this forum for info), and manage to function intelligently.
I'm a blonde female, and have experienced all the stereotypical attidudes (typo intentional), and jokes surrounding car buying, ownership, and repairs...and dated a mechanic back on the day, who educated me about how to rise above it without the drama. I've managed to save about 5K in the 2 years since adopting my Cat by being curious, researching, and asking questions. The second thing I had to learn after the initial purchase fixes was what "left bank" and "right bank" means in terms of acceleration and fuel injection lol. My guy at the shop gave me a high five for that one and appreciated that I cared enough to learn and participate in getting to know the cars he loved enough to make a career of and support his family with.
Empower yourself so you can manage as much as you can on your own, and walk into a qualified shop with a smile and enough info to address what's needed fairly and cooperatively. It'll be satisfying, fun, and save you a bundle.
Thanks! Super informative and super welcoming. I'm not unaccustomed to turning a wrench, so am not afraid to get my hands dirty if need be. I also know when I'm above my pay grade and when to ask for help lol This is my 2nd Jaguar product. My 1st was an XJ6, which was both a pleasure to drive and fairly intuitive to work on. On the other hand, I've also had a BMW and a Mercedes (both older models) and were a pain and very costly to keep up. And quite honestly, I enjoy driving my XKR more than either of German offerings I had.
Jaguar, especially the X150 platform, is still very much new to me. I have found lots of info thus far about troubleshooting and proper maintenance, and I will be returning here much in the future. I plan on keeping this car for a good while if not forever. I do lack appropriate Jag specific diagnostic tools, but as I see from the threads in this forum they are seemingly becoming more and more necessary, so that will be something I remedy soon.
Thanks for all the info, will definitely put it to good use.
As for Jaguar light and battery update. Another night on the cTek netted no significant change. Still unable to attain 100% charge, reading from multimeter was barely changed at 12.36V. Given the age of the battery, now 6 years, it is to be expected, especially from what I've been reading. The XKRs various systems demand on the battery, I'm surprised it lasted this long, given the low ish miles on it. So currently shopping for a battery and will pick one up hopefully tomorrow. It currently has a NAPA Platinum Legend AGM, but as jahummer pointed out, a flooded wet battery was standard, so that is what I will replace it with. Part of me hopes this remedies the DTC and clears the MIL, but if not, a proper diagnostic scan tool is on the list.
Will continue to update when able or when there is a change.
Ok so long overdue update. My apologies, it's been a busy week at work.
So today I went and picked up Duracell Ultra Gold BCI Gr 49 battery from Batteries Plus. Installed in parking lot, started the car, let it run for 5 min or so. Shut it off run it again and used the drive home to reset all my settings (and played with a Corvette a bit 😁.
I am pleased to announce that the battery, at least so far, has seemed to resolve a number of issues. The MIL is gone, my electronic e brake works (after some fiddling), and the car just seems to run and operate better. Although it maybe just a placebo effect from installing a new part. Sort of like how the car feels after a thorough wash lol Nonetheless, I remain optimistic. For now I say issue is remedied.
More maintenancey stuff planned. Oil and filter change, air filters, and brakes will be next to come. May poke and wiggle some stuff while I'm underneath it as well.
01-06-2021, 08:47 PM
. 