Terrible Clicking Sound From Brakes at Low Speeds
#1
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In my ongoing saga of this car's brakes (07 XKR), I finally bled the brakes with a Motive power bleeder.
All went well, I thought, except now I have some nasty clicking or clacking when braking at very low speeds, related directly to depressing the pedal. This happens when stopped as well- the further I push into the pedal, the clicks keep coming. I can even feel the noise "feeding back" in the pedal. It only happens when the pedal is hard- pushing it harder. I don't know what I could have done wrong with the powerbleeder, but this car's brakes have just been a curse to me.
No sound at all at speed. No sound at all when the pedal is "soft".
Here is a video of me slowly depressing the "firm" pedal (after stopped, in reverse) and the sound it makes
All went well, I thought, except now I have some nasty clicking or clacking when braking at very low speeds, related directly to depressing the pedal. This happens when stopped as well- the further I push into the pedal, the clicks keep coming. I can even feel the noise "feeding back" in the pedal. It only happens when the pedal is hard- pushing it harder. I don't know what I could have done wrong with the powerbleeder, but this car's brakes have just been a curse to me.
No sound at all at speed. No sound at all when the pedal is "soft".
Here is a video of me slowly depressing the "firm" pedal (after stopped, in reverse) and the sound it makes
Last edited by silvertonesx24; 06-06-2020 at 09:34 PM.
#2
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Not had on my Jag but on another car recently (March).
It mainly manifested itself on reverse esp if I left the E-brake on and was down to the inside of one of the pads (UK drivers side rear) being down to the metal. All the other pads inside & out were fine and legal
Am going to guess not your issue as you'd have examined them when bleeding?
What age are your pads/discs? and what kind of weekly mileage have you been doing since you noticed this?
It mainly manifested itself on reverse esp if I left the E-brake on and was down to the inside of one of the pads (UK drivers side rear) being down to the metal. All the other pads inside & out were fine and legal
Am going to guess not your issue as you'd have examined them when bleeding?
What age are your pads/discs? and what kind of weekly mileage have you been doing since you noticed this?
#3
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Not had on my Jag but on another car recently (March).
It mainly manifested itself on reverse esp if I left the E-brake on and was down to the inside of one of the pads (UK drivers side rear) being down to the metal. All the other pads inside & out were fine and legal
Am going to guess not your issue as you'd have examined them when bleeding?
What age are your pads/discs? and what kind of weekly mileage have you been doing since you noticed this?
It mainly manifested itself on reverse esp if I left the E-brake on and was down to the inside of one of the pads (UK drivers side rear) being down to the metal. All the other pads inside & out were fine and legal
Am going to guess not your issue as you'd have examined them when bleeding?
What age are your pads/discs? and what kind of weekly mileage have you been doing since you noticed this?
#5
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No, it shouldn't have. It was supplied by the Power Bleeder. I did make a mistake and depressurize by the cap (stupid mistake, misread the directions) and excess brake fluid leaked down below the cylinder.
Pedal feel is good, brake performance is good, only now this creaking at low/no speeds when pressure is put on the pedal.
Pedal feel is good, brake performance is good, only now this creaking at low/no speeds when pressure is put on the pedal.
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#9
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The ABS is behind the left front wheel liner it you have someone to help you listen. When I played your video it sounded like a hammer banging.
if it is just a metallic creaking noise could it perhaps be the pads need lube? I generously apply high temp ceramic cream on pins, slides, pistons, pad backs, clips, etc.
I have used the motive power bleeder on all of our cars as well and it works perfectly.
if it is just a metallic creaking noise could it perhaps be the pads need lube? I generously apply high temp ceramic cream on pins, slides, pistons, pad backs, clips, etc.
I have used the motive power bleeder on all of our cars as well and it works perfectly.
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#14
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you could try this method but you only need to do this if you think air as got to the abs pump
BLEEDING TEVES BRAKES
TWO PEOPLE REQUIRED
START AT REAR LEFT, THEN REAR RIGHT (UNLESS JUST ONE REAR BRAKE NIPPLE) THEN FRONT LEFT, FRONT RIGHT.
ONE PERSON IN THE CAR, ENSURE BRAKE FLUID LEVEL IS FULLY TOPPED UP.
TURN ON IGNITION AND WAIT UNTIL BOTH ABS AND LOW PRESSURE LIGHTS HAVE EXTINGUISHED AND ALSO THE MOTOR PUMP HAS CUT OUT.
THEN, OPEN REAR LEFT BLEED NIPPLE AND HOLD BRAKE PEDAL DOWN, WITH IGNITION ON FOR 15 SECONDS – NO MORE
TIGHTEN BLEED NIPPLE, TURN OFF IGNITION, RELEASE BRAKE PEDAL.
WAIT ONE MINUTE AND REPEAT FROM RESTORING SYSTEM PRESSURE AS ABOVE FOR OTHER NIPPLE IF FITTED – THEN WAIT ONE MINUTE AT LEAST BEFORE MOVING TO FRONT BRAKES – THIS PREVENTS THE MOTOR PUMP FROM OVERHEATING.
AT THE FRONT, ENSURE SYSTEM PRESSURE IS CREATED AND THEN BLEED CALIPERS CONVENTIONALLY WITH IGNITION ON, USING SLOW STROKES AND GO THE FULL TRAVEL BUT DO NOT FORCE.
ONCE THE LEFT SIDE HAS BEEN DONE, AGAIN WAIT ONE MINUTE AND THEN RESTORE SYSTEM PRESSURE.
ENSURE BRAKE FLUID LEVEL IS CHECKED AND TOPPED UP AFTER EACH CALIPER IS BLED
BLEEDING TEVES BRAKES
TWO PEOPLE REQUIRED
START AT REAR LEFT, THEN REAR RIGHT (UNLESS JUST ONE REAR BRAKE NIPPLE) THEN FRONT LEFT, FRONT RIGHT.
ONE PERSON IN THE CAR, ENSURE BRAKE FLUID LEVEL IS FULLY TOPPED UP.
TURN ON IGNITION AND WAIT UNTIL BOTH ABS AND LOW PRESSURE LIGHTS HAVE EXTINGUISHED AND ALSO THE MOTOR PUMP HAS CUT OUT.
THEN, OPEN REAR LEFT BLEED NIPPLE AND HOLD BRAKE PEDAL DOWN, WITH IGNITION ON FOR 15 SECONDS – NO MORE
TIGHTEN BLEED NIPPLE, TURN OFF IGNITION, RELEASE BRAKE PEDAL.
WAIT ONE MINUTE AND REPEAT FROM RESTORING SYSTEM PRESSURE AS ABOVE FOR OTHER NIPPLE IF FITTED – THEN WAIT ONE MINUTE AT LEAST BEFORE MOVING TO FRONT BRAKES – THIS PREVENTS THE MOTOR PUMP FROM OVERHEATING.
AT THE FRONT, ENSURE SYSTEM PRESSURE IS CREATED AND THEN BLEED CALIPERS CONVENTIONALLY WITH IGNITION ON, USING SLOW STROKES AND GO THE FULL TRAVEL BUT DO NOT FORCE.
ONCE THE LEFT SIDE HAS BEEN DONE, AGAIN WAIT ONE MINUTE AND THEN RESTORE SYSTEM PRESSURE.
ENSURE BRAKE FLUID LEVEL IS CHECKED AND TOPPED UP AFTER EACH CALIPER IS BLED
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