Timing Cover Stuck
#1
Timing Cover Stuck
Hello Jaguar Forum colleague,
I am in the process of replacing the timing chain tensioners on my 2010 XK NA. I am using the tie strap method and I’m struggling to remove the timing covers (cams not crank). I’ve removed all 8 fasteners and sprayed the joints with carb cleaner, break clean but sill unable to remove.
I can’t seem to get leverage on the tab to attempt to pry off. Are they hard to remove? Any tips or suggestions.
I am in the process of replacing the timing chain tensioners on my 2010 XK NA. I am using the tie strap method and I’m struggling to remove the timing covers (cams not crank). I’ve removed all 8 fasteners and sprayed the joints with carb cleaner, break clean but sill unable to remove.
I can’t seem to get leverage on the tab to attempt to pry off. Are they hard to remove? Any tips or suggestions.
#2
#3
Watched video on Atlantic British (Roverparts.com) and he mentions to pry at tabs but they don’t seem to budge.
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The following users liked this post:
Luis LCG (03-12-2020)
#10
The following 2 users liked this post by Luis LCG:
MarkyUK (03-15-2020),
Queen and Country (03-12-2020)
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#12
Hello!
The sealant used at the factory for timing covers is strong and it definitely took some force for me to remove it - also when I removed mine I had the valve cover removed which probably allowed me to get more purchase on it to give it a good tug. Removing sensors not necessary for removal, but no harm in getting everything out of the way, especially solenoids.
I'd try and lever it off with the tab if you can find something good to lever against, which I think is how I did it. I'd also avoid using a razor blade as the aluminum surface on the heads is easy to marr and I guess the thinking is you could see issues with oil leaks, though admittedly this seems very unlikely at the top of the engine in front of the chains.
The sealant used at the factory for timing covers is strong and it definitely took some force for me to remove it - also when I removed mine I had the valve cover removed which probably allowed me to get more purchase on it to give it a good tug. Removing sensors not necessary for removal, but no harm in getting everything out of the way, especially solenoids.
I'd try and lever it off with the tab if you can find something good to lever against, which I think is how I did it. I'd also avoid using a razor blade as the aluminum surface on the heads is easy to marr and I guess the thinking is you could see issues with oil leaks, though admittedly this seems very unlikely at the top of the engine in front of the chains.
The following users liked this post:
Queen and Country (03-12-2020)
#13
Hey while you are here- what size 8mm wrench did you use, a long one or just normal, flex head or straight? I am fighting that e-diff fill plug you got lucky with.
Edit. please ignore, sorry got the wrong guy, meant to ask TexasTraveller
Last edited by Queen and Country; 03-12-2020 at 02:36 PM. Reason: ooopps
#14
Hello!
The sealant used at the factory for timing covers is strong and it definitely took some force for me to remove it - also when I removed mine I had the valve cover removed which probably allowed me to get more purchase on it to give it a good tug. Removing sensors not necessary for removal, but no harm in getting everything out of the way, especially solenoids.
I'd try and lever it off with the tab if you can find something good to lever against, which I think is how I did it. I'd also avoid using a razor blade as the aluminum surface on the heads is easy to marr and I guess the thinking is you could see issues with oil leaks, though admittedly this seems very unlikely at the top of the engine in front of the chains.
The sealant used at the factory for timing covers is strong and it definitely took some force for me to remove it - also when I removed mine I had the valve cover removed which probably allowed me to get more purchase on it to give it a good tug. Removing sensors not necessary for removal, but no harm in getting everything out of the way, especially solenoids.
I'd try and lever it off with the tab if you can find something good to lever against, which I think is how I did it. I'd also avoid using a razor blade as the aluminum surface on the heads is easy to marr and I guess the thinking is you could see issues with oil leaks, though admittedly this seems very unlikely at the top of the engine in front of the chains.
Again, thanks for all you responses.
#15
Happy to report I was able to remove both timing covers. I used Ford Fluid ZC-30-A Silicone Gasket Remover. Carefully spraying just around the seem last night and was able to pop them off with a pry tool. Prior to using I just couldn’t get it to budge. Picked up the fluid for 12 bucks at a local Ford dealership.
The following 7 users liked this post by Luis LCG:
Cee Jay (03-12-2020),
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MarkyUK (03-15-2020),
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Queen and Country (03-13-2020),
and 2 others liked this post.
#16
#19
Update
After getting ill ( maybe Covid but never got tested ) I was able to finish the work. I had to pull the valve covers off as I was unable to but in the driver side rail. I had to remove the passenger bank rails (both) as that was the only way I was able to fish the driver side in.
Of course I encounters issues. Along with a broken tab on one timing cover ($80 used replacement from eBay) I had:
stripped a thread in the block for the lower timing cover. Heli coil used to repair.
Snapped a bolt also in the lower timing cover.
So not sure how it is possible to perform the tie strap tensioner but I was unable to fish it in. I ended up breaking a small plastic tab removing the tensioner rail.
The car is now pieced back together. And she started up great. I did however have a few minor issues.
Ground cable came loose on passenger side timing cover as I forgot tighten. Also left the generated cable off the starter.
I now am dealing with a pesky P0420. Seeing odd behavior on this banks fuel trims. Long term jumps from 0 to 6 or 7 before short term increases. Stft very twitchy. Thought I had a bad rear O2. Replaced rear and the front A/F sensor but still getting odd behavior.
So I have cleaned MAFs, crank pos sensor (to ensure no debris on sensors) and all cam sensors.
Noticed a bit of oil from main breather to intake. Never had this before the work so not sure what the cause is. For that I just replaced the PCV valves. Hope this will help but there were no tears. The one closest to the front of the engine sprig was more compressed then its partner.
I was able to determine bank 1 injector 7 is 30% less than the other injectors on the bank so I will replace that shortly.
After getting ill ( maybe Covid but never got tested ) I was able to finish the work. I had to pull the valve covers off as I was unable to but in the driver side rail. I had to remove the passenger bank rails (both) as that was the only way I was able to fish the driver side in.
Of course I encounters issues. Along with a broken tab on one timing cover ($80 used replacement from eBay) I had:
stripped a thread in the block for the lower timing cover. Heli coil used to repair.
Snapped a bolt also in the lower timing cover.
So not sure how it is possible to perform the tie strap tensioner but I was unable to fish it in. I ended up breaking a small plastic tab removing the tensioner rail.
The car is now pieced back together. And she started up great. I did however have a few minor issues.
Ground cable came loose on passenger side timing cover as I forgot tighten. Also left the generated cable off the starter.
I now am dealing with a pesky P0420. Seeing odd behavior on this banks fuel trims. Long term jumps from 0 to 6 or 7 before short term increases. Stft very twitchy. Thought I had a bad rear O2. Replaced rear and the front A/F sensor but still getting odd behavior.
So I have cleaned MAFs, crank pos sensor (to ensure no debris on sensors) and all cam sensors.
Noticed a bit of oil from main breather to intake. Never had this before the work so not sure what the cause is. For that I just replaced the PCV valves. Hope this will help but there were no tears. The one closest to the front of the engine sprig was more compressed then its partner.
I was able to determine bank 1 injector 7 is 30% less than the other injectors on the bank so I will replace that shortly.
#20