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Urgent: EPB open fault non stop beeping - RESOLVED
Ok this is almost comical. I just bought an 07 xk8 with about 44k miles. The car is pretty mint save for the issue with the epb.
I’ve tried disconnecting the battery and recalibrating the brake, but I’m getting a park brake fault error. What’s worse is the car is beeping incessantly.
what’s even worse than that is I have 15 hours of driving to go before getting home.
is there any fuse I can pull or wire I can cut to stop the beeping?
Would love some help!
Last edited by GGG; 02-07-2022 at 05:32 PM.
Reason: Add 'RESOLVED' to thread title
I finally figured it out, but not after a LOT time and trouble. I'm writing this in the hope it will help someone else.
If you've read any part of this post you'll know I had an issue with the car where I was getting the messages:
Park Brake Fault
Cannot Apply Park Brake
I was also getting constant beeping when the car was driving. Last but not least, I had the park brake lock up on me on more than one occasion.
Additionally, I was seeing the following codes from the power brake module:
C1D16-14 High power battery feed
C1802-00 Motor current not reached or traveled too far upon apply
C1799-00: Hall effect circuit failure
C1785-00: Electric Parking brake motor output open circuit
C1786-00: Electric Parking brake motor output short to battery
While these symptoms are typically caused by a low battery this was NOT the case for me. I tested my battery after having it sit overnight and found it was showing 12.8v. Also, I had tried swapping batteries to no avail.
Other things I tried including disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and pulling the EPB module fuse. Nothing worked.
My next step was to look at the wiring diagram. Take a look below:
Not the RW and GW wires. Those go directly to the park brake motor. Also, these wires can be found in two connectors just belong the fuse box in the rear seat. They are connected to the park brake module and can be accessed without removing the fuse box. I measured resistance on on the RW and GW cables and was getting 1 (i.e. open circuit or infinite resistance). I also tried applying power to the GW and RW wires (V+) and (V-) respectively. Nothing happened. It's possible the actuators were bad, but just not likely.
I then went digging for bad wiring (ugh). After a ton of searching, I found this bundle under the car. It's a bit hard to see because I couldn't get my phone to focus on it, but you can still clearly see the broken cables. Take a look:
If you look at the colors of the cables you'll see they correspond to the cables on the parking brake module wiring diagram! Eureka! My plan then was just to cut the green/white (aka GW) white and use alligator clips to apply power.
Well wouldn't you know it, it worked! I put 12v+ on GW and 12v- on RW and I clearly heard the park brake being unlocked! And while this sounds like it may be the *end* of the story, there's a bit more.
While I was now able to drive the car, I was getting that incessant beeping. I was able to quickly resolve this by disconnecting both cable connectors on the park brake module. I probably only needed to disconnect the larger connector that wen to the park brake switch, but I disconnected both and voila, problem solved no beeping!
I'd love to fix the wires myself, but I really need to get the car on ramps to do that. I'm taking it in tomorrow to have it fully diagnosed to see if there's anything I missed. i'm now seeing a "Park Brake Fault" message. Basically, that's the ECM saying "I don't see an EPB module". That's not a big deal though.
Finally, I'm also getting a cruise control not available message. I suspect this is due to the EPB being non-functional. I hope addressing one issue will also address the other. Thanks for everyone who chimed in with suggestions. I do hope this write up will help someone else.
Nope, new EPB module likely. Have you tried setting and releasing the brake?
boy did I ever! I did several times. On my last attempt the brake engages and subsequently refused to disengage!!!
We (by we I mean my wife and me got stuck in the left turn lane on ramp to I-2” in Texas. We had to call the cops who pointed out “sir you don’t have a license plate on your car”. He was nice when I explained we just bought the car.
the tow truck showed up and we had to take a ride in the back of a police car.
we towed the car to a gas station, disconnected the battery and were able to disengage the brake and even got the beeping to stop.
we are currently very popular on Facebook for ending up in the back of a police car!! Insert face palm here 🤣
ok beeping stopped but the can’t apply hand brake error continues. I know we are getting an open circuit fault on the epb. I’m staring to wonder if we don’t have a bad epb or a wiring harness.
for now we’re able to move so all’s well but what a day! We started at 4:45am in florida then got on a plane which had a maintenance issue, bought the car, went to a mechanic, got on the road, had our little misadventure and are now in Texas.
are you certain the battery is good? It must show 12.6v or better. Let this be your first check.
Also, codes?
Though if a battery issue it usually occurs are start up. Not whilst running down the freeway.
Sorry to learn about your problems. You may think that you have a good case of fraud against the seller because he knew that the EPB didn't work and intentionally didn't tell you. Think again. It's an uphill battle, and you have to prove it.
You may think that you have a good case of fraud against the seller because he knew that the EPB didn't work and intentionally didn't tell you
Actually the seller is a good guy. I paid him a thousand through eBay with a commintment from him (documented through eBay also) to pay for the repair up to $1000
The car is solid and mint inside and out. Yes it has this EBP issue, but I knew it had the error before flying out to Texas.
I think trying to reset it using the disconnect procedure made the issue worse.
are you certain the battery is good? It must show 12.6v or better. Let this be your first check.
Also, codes?
Though if a battery issue it usually occurs are start up. Not whilst running down the freeway.
Battery seems to be solid on start. I’ll confirm Thursday after getting back to FL
This reminds me of a story. I spent some time in Oman in the mid-2000s, and they had a requirement that cars beep when they go over the 62 MPH speed limit. Upon our arrival we were driven about 200 miles up a desert highway to our destination and our driver was going maybe 75 with the car beeping the whole time. It was making us a bit nuts and I couldn't believe that he could drive with that racket, but since we were new we gritted our teeth and rolled with it. I have a video of us several months later driving around the country on a road trip, and in the background the >62 MPH beeper is chirping away. We were completely oblivious to it by then and didn’t notice it until we watched the video.
This reminds me of a story. I spent some time in Oman in the mid-2000s, and they had a requirement that cars beep when they go over the 62 MPH speed limit. Upon our arrival we were driven about 200 miles up a desert highway to our destination and our driver was going maybe 75 with the car beeping the whole time. It was making us a bit nuts and I couldn't believe that he could drive with that racket, but since we were new we gritted our teeth and rolled with it. I have a video of us several months later driving around the country on a road trip, and in the background the >62 MPH beeper is chirping away. We were completely oblivious to it by then and didn’t notice it until we watched the video.
oh man, that's crazy. I bet most people in Oman would disconnect that piezo asap!
I've been dealing with this issue for a while now. Like you, it got to the point where the module thought the brake was partially engaged, and wouldn't stop beeping from the dash.
I also found out later that while moving, the brake lights were on all the time... which can be pretty dangerous. There is a wire going directly from the module to your brake switch, telling the lights to stay on.
Rather than cutting that wire, I tried removing the fuse for the module. Didn't work... until I reset the battery also. No more beep, and the only message displayed is "Park Brake Fault", which you can clear.
Yes I am still too lazy to replace and reprogram the module!
Rather than cutting that wire, I tried removing the fuse for the module. Didn't work... until I reset the battery also. No more beep, and the only message displayed is "Park Brake Fault", which you can clear.
Yes I am still too lazy to replace and reprogram the module!
I had a jag specialist suggest disconnecting the battery and retrying since the battery should have good charge now. Brakes got stuck again.
ugghhhhh. I’m going to let it sit overnight and hope I can get them released.
Is there a way to disengage the parking brake manually? Battery resets have not resolved the problem - neither has replacing the battery with a new one.
By the way, the "old battery" was just installed in September of 21 and it tested good per Orielly's.
looking at this wiring diagram shouldn't i be able to connect +12v to the Green/White cable and -12v to the Red/White cable to actuate the motor and release the brake?
First post says he has an 07, which would make it a XK, not an XK8, however his profile lists just a 2004 X-Type.
You’re right. It’s my mistake on calling it an xk8. It’s definitely an 07 xk. As for the 04 x-type. That’s the other cat we have .
by the way: I applied power directly to the motor leads leading to the motor + and - coming out of the rob, but there was no sound of any actuators moving.
I finally figured it out, but not after a LOT time and trouble. I'm writing this in the hope it will help someone else.
If you've read any part of this post you'll know I had an issue with the car where I was getting the messages:
Park Brake Fault
Cannot Apply Park Brake
I was also getting constant beeping when the car was driving. Last but not least, I had the park brake lock up on me on more than one occasion.
Additionally, I was seeing the following codes from the power brake module:
C1D16-14 High power battery feed
C1802-00 Motor current not reached or traveled too far upon apply
C1799-00: Hall effect circuit failure
C1785-00: Electric Parking brake motor output open circuit
C1786-00: Electric Parking brake motor output short to battery
While these symptoms are typically caused by a low battery this was NOT the case for me. I tested my battery after having it sit overnight and found it was showing 12.8v. Also, I had tried swapping batteries to no avail.
Other things I tried including disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and pulling the EPB module fuse. Nothing worked.
My next step was to look at the wiring diagram. Take a look below:
Not the RW and GW wires. Those go directly to the park brake motor. Also, these wires can be found in two connectors just belong the fuse box in the rear seat. They are connected to the park brake module and can be accessed without removing the fuse box. I measured resistance on on the RW and GW cables and was getting 1 (i.e. open circuit or infinite resistance). I also tried applying power to the GW and RW wires (V+) and (V-) respectively. Nothing happened. It's possible the actuators were bad, but just not likely.
I then went digging for bad wiring (ugh). After a ton of searching, I found this bundle under the car. It's a bit hard to see because I couldn't get my phone to focus on it, but you can still clearly see the broken cables. Take a look:
If you look at the colors of the cables you'll see they correspond to the cables on the parking brake module wiring diagram! Eureka! My plan then was just to cut the green/white (aka GW) white and use alligator clips to apply power.
Well wouldn't you know it, it worked! I put 12v+ on GW and 12v- on RW and I clearly heard the park brake being unlocked! And while this sounds like it may be the *end* of the story, there's a bit more.
While I was now able to drive the car, I was getting that incessant beeping. I was able to quickly resolve this by disconnecting both cable connectors on the park brake module. I probably only needed to disconnect the larger connector that wen to the park brake switch, but I disconnected both and voila, problem solved no beeping!
I'd love to fix the wires myself, but I really need to get the car on ramps to do that. I'm taking it in tomorrow to have it fully diagnosed to see if there's anything I missed. i'm now seeing a "Park Brake Fault" message. Basically, that's the ECM saying "I don't see an EPB module". That's not a big deal though.
Finally, I'm also getting a cruise control not available message. I suspect this is due to the EPB being non-functional. I hope addressing one issue will also address the other. Thanks for everyone who chimed in with suggestions. I do hope this write up will help someone else.
Nice find. In the blurry background, you can see a hole in the frame between the two white paint marks. Im willing to bet, thats where a cable tie down grommet goes. If thatw how you found the wires, It looks like someone worked on it, didnt put the tie down grommet back and it chaffed on the CV boot clamp. Just for my personal knowledge, what side of the car is this on?
Nice find. In the blurry background, you can see a hole in the frame between the two white paint marks. Im willing to bet, thats where a cable tie down grommet goes. If thatw how you found the wires, It looks like someone worked on it, didnt put the tie down grommet back and it chaffed on the CV boot clamp. Just for my personal knowledge, what side of the car is this on?
I am almost positive there was work on the rear of the car. The starter ground cable was not covered with the plastic boot. I can't say if that's related. I suspect the starter was replaced, then the owner started seeing the parking brake fault and cruise not available errors and decided they had enough
I took the car over to "The Jaguar Doctor" here in orlando today. They can give it a once over and take care of the wiring.
Here's the car by the way: I still think it's worth all the trouble we've experienced. My wife and I just love it!
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