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After months of chasing this P0101 code i believe I finally found the culprit. I youTubed DIY smoke machines and built my own for about $15 worth of parts. I wasn't sure if it was going to be any good but at this point I had nothing to lose.
With the intake and supercharger overhaul I completed recently, I knew most of the vacuum system and intake was tight and in good shape. After ruling out all the new vacuum lines, PCV and breather lines, and dip stick o-ring, there was only 1 part I didn't replace - the oil filler tube. Sure enough, the smoke test sniffed out a nice leak right where it seats into the bank cover.
After building the machine I decided to plug it into the brake booster check valve. While the engine was still warm, I disconnected the brake booster valve/pipe and immediately heard a hissing noise. This was a sign that the booster was holding vacuum and I could rule out any leak from there.
I plugged the smoke hose to the check valve and began to pump. I figured the intake tubes and resonators would fill up first. Didn't see any smoke so no intake leak. I disconnected the full load breather from the resonator and sure enough smoke was coming out as expected.
Now it was time to test the vacuum. I removed the resonators and T-pipe then Capped the breather line and throttle body.
Pumped the machine a few times to pressurize the system.
At first I didn't notice anything, but realized there is a lot of space needed to be filled, so I kept pumping. I ended up pushing down on the glove while it was full and started to notice smoke .... coming from the oil filler pipe! Can't see much of the smoke in the picture but I will try to get the video uploaded. Either way, in person you can see a ton of smoke coming out of there!
Going to attempt to replace the pipe and hope that solves my P0101 code.
Going to attempt to replace the pipe and hope that solves my P0101 code.
I hope removing the left bank cover will be easy job for you. I could not remove the oil check stick tube which is required to be removed in order to release one of nuts.
Please update here how you remove the bank cover and the oil stick tube once you succeed
I hope removing the left bank cover will be easy job for you. I could not remove the oil check stick tube which is required to be removed in order to release one of nuts.
Please update here how you remove the bank cover and the oil stick tube once you succeed
No shot I am taking off the whole bank cover to get the filler tube off. It has to be able to come off on it's own. Reading some other threads it looks like I should be ok with just removing the tube.
Since there's a tab that hold the pipe to the valve cover are you interested in doing a little black RTV repair on the joint? There's just a O ring sealing that joint. Heck, a dab of heavy grease might be enough to seal it. Pop a shop vac over the fill port and it might draw it into the gap.
Since there's a tab that hold the pipe to the valve cover are you interested in doing a little black RTV repair on the joint? There's just a O ring sealing that joint. Heck, a dab of heavy grease might be enough to seal it. Pop a shop vac over the fill port and it might draw it into the gap.
Yeah I was considering that too. Gunna wait for the new one to come in and see what it looks like. If I can get the old one off I will RTV the new one in place anyway. If it doesn't come off then I will RTV around it. But I do want to replace the cap with a new one also.
I just did this. You have to lift a tiny metal tab while unscrewing the tube. 90% chase the metal tab will break but that's ok as the new tube you bought will have the tab and the o-ring and you'll quickly see how it's designed. You don't have to remove the valve cover. I ended up using a jeweler type score driver so you want something really thin. Pry up on the tab, let it break, no worries. Wipe the area clean, screw the new one down.
I just did this. You have to lift a tiny metal tab while unscrewing the tube. 90% chase the metal tab will break but that's ok as the new tube you bought will have the tab and the o-ring and you'll quickly see how it's designed. You don't have to remove the valve cover. I ended up using a jeweler type score driver so you want something really thin. Pry up on the tab, let it break, no worries. Wipe the area clean, screw the new one down.
Yeah basically all that ^^ haha. Tab came up easy, didn't brake at all. O-ring was clearly shot.
On S/C models however you should re-position the purge valve bracket and hose. Undo the bracket nut at the valve cover, then the bracket bolt and clip at the back of the intercooler.
Repair manual does not specify putting oil on the new o-ring so I let the paint dry and put it right in.
It appears yours is different design than mine?
note the metal tab in the pic below. Yours looks like all plastic and a better design? Maybe a difference between the S/C and N/A or was just improved upon
It appears yours is different design than mine?
note the metal tab in the pic below. Yours looks like all plastic and a better design? Maybe a difference between the S/C and N/A or was just improved upon
Yeah, mine looked like Sean’s. I either used a hack saw or a Dremel cutting disk to cut off the tab. I had the valve cover off, so no worries of metal filings going where they shouldn’t be.
06-25-2019, 08:59 PM
Vacuum leak found with DIY smoke machine!!
