VIC
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#2
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Welcome to the forum VFOLZ,
I've moved your question from General Tech Help to XK/XKR forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.
Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
I've moved your question from General Tech Help to XK/XKR forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.
Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
#3
#6
#7
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Jags still use AIR pumps???
AIR Pressure Sensor
CIRCUIT/SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
The secondary air injection (AIR) system aids in the reduction of hydrocarbon emissions during a cold start. The system forces fresh filtered air into the exhaust stream in order to accelerate the catalyst operation. An electric air pump, the secondary AIR injection pump, provides filtered air on demand to the AIR control solenoid valve/pressure sensor assembly. The AIR control solenoid valve/pressure sensor assembly controls the flow of air from the AIR pump to the exhaust manifold. The AIR solenoid valve relay supplies the current needed to operate the AIR solenoid valve/pressure sensor assembly. A pressure sensor is used to monitor the air flow from the AIR pump. The control module supplies the internal pressure sensor with a 5-Volt reference, an electrical ground, and a signal circuit.
Other than that, I'd suppose it'd be the same Air Injection System that has been used since the mid-eighties. Specifically, for an XK, I have no idea.
AIR Pressure Sensor
CIRCUIT/SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
The secondary air injection (AIR) system aids in the reduction of hydrocarbon emissions during a cold start. The system forces fresh filtered air into the exhaust stream in order to accelerate the catalyst operation. An electric air pump, the secondary AIR injection pump, provides filtered air on demand to the AIR control solenoid valve/pressure sensor assembly. The AIR control solenoid valve/pressure sensor assembly controls the flow of air from the AIR pump to the exhaust manifold. The AIR solenoid valve relay supplies the current needed to operate the AIR solenoid valve/pressure sensor assembly. A pressure sensor is used to monitor the air flow from the AIR pump. The control module supplies the internal pressure sensor with a 5-Volt reference, an electrical ground, and a signal circuit.
Other than that, I'd suppose it'd be the same Air Injection System that has been used since the mid-eighties. Specifically, for an XK, I have no idea.
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#9
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Our 2007 XK's CEL just came on for the first time since we bought it back in December. AutoZone diagnostics tool reader guy printed me out a sheet of paper from the reading saying it is "Error Codes Read: P2431 Secondary Air Injection System Air Flow/Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1" and it listed it twice... whatever that means.
There's been some discussion in an S-Type forum over this very P2431 code that the first step should be to take it to the dealer and "flash the system" for the latest software update? Does this make enough sense to anyone here to explain this to me?
There's been some discussion in an S-Type forum over this very P2431 code that the first step should be to take it to the dealer and "flash the system" for the latest software update? Does this make enough sense to anyone here to explain this to me?
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If the problem is known to be potentially caused by a software bug, or possibly corruption of the software image, then getting the latest software loaded (or reloaded, if you already have the latest) is worth a try. It might not cure it, but if it does, that's saved time & money getting sensors replaced for no reason.
"Flashing" the car's systems simply means erasing and reloading the software - the type of permanent memory chips used for storing it is known as Flash EPROM, hence the term.
"Flashing" the car's systems simply means erasing and reloading the software - the type of permanent memory chips used for storing it is known as Flash EPROM, hence the term.
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Geosnooker2000 (04-19-2017)
#11
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If the problem is known to be potentially caused by a software bug, or possibly corruption of the software image, then getting the latest software loaded (or reloaded, if you already have the latest) is worth a try. It might not cure it, but if it does, that's saved time & money getting sensors replaced for no reason.
"Flashing" the car's systems simply means erasing and reloading the software - the type of permanent memory chips used for storing it is known as Flash EPROM, hence the term.
"Flashing" the car's systems simply means erasing and reloading the software - the type of permanent memory chips used for storing it is known as Flash EPROM, hence the term.
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I would go through a few different approaches before going to a dealer. First is to have someone erase the codes. If they come back then I would re-boot the system . This consists of removing the battery terminal and touching it to the other terminal. Then reattach it and see if the code comes back. If it does then go see the dealer or mechanic and have them check the sensors before they reflash the SW. My 2 cents here.
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I would go through a few different approaches before going to a dealer. First is to have someone erase the codes. If they come back then I would re-boot the system . This consists of removing the battery terminal and touching it to the other terminal. Then reattach it and see if the code comes back. If it does then go see the dealer or mechanic and have them check the sensors before they reflash the SW. My 2 cents here.
Someone meaning, like, autozone dude with his code reader? When I want to erase codes on my 1999 Explorer, I just unhook the battery for about 10 minutes. Essence of my question: how do you erase codes, and with what apparatus?
"If they come back then I would re-boot the system . This consists of removing the battery terminal and touching it to the other terminal."
Which one? Are you saying remove the, let's say, negative terminal lead and touch it to the positive terminal while it is still attached? My limited knowledge of electricity tells me this will discharge any charge inside the motherboard of the computer, correct?
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Yes, Geosnooker, that's what touching the battery terminals together does, it discharges all the volatile memory from all the systems. It's the short way of disconnecting the battery and waiting for 10-30 minutes.
Also, erasing the Engine codes with a code checker like the Autozone dude does ONLY erases the codes and does not reset any of the other electronics. Code readers/live data readers are quite cheap nowadays, like $6 for the Bluetooth and free Torque App for phones and tablets.
Also, erasing the Engine codes with a code checker like the Autozone dude does ONLY erases the codes and does not reset any of the other electronics. Code readers/live data readers are quite cheap nowadays, like $6 for the Bluetooth and free Torque App for phones and tablets.
#15
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Yes, Geosnooker, that's what touching the battery terminals together does, it discharges all the volatile memory from all the systems. It's the short way of disconnecting the battery and waiting for 10-30 minutes.
Also, erasing the Engine codes with a code checker like the Autozone dude does ONLY erases the codes and does not reset any of the other electronics. Code readers/live data readers are quite cheap nowadays, like $6 for the Bluetooth and free Torque App for phones and tablets.
Also, erasing the Engine codes with a code checker like the Autozone dude does ONLY erases the codes and does not reset any of the other electronics. Code readers/live data readers are quite cheap nowadays, like $6 for the Bluetooth and free Torque App for phones and tablets.
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#16
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OK lets make this specific. Remove BOTH battery terminals. Then touch and hold the 2 wires together for 10 seconds. Then reattach each battery wire to their correct terminal. Now go to Autozone or any auto parts store and tell the clerk you want a cheap OBDII code reader that will erase the codes. They are nice to have for future use on all OBDII cars. If you saw where the AZ guy plugged his reader in this is where you need to also. When you touch the wires you will most likely lose all of your radio , seat and BT settings. You'll need to reset them all.
#18
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Geosnooker2000 (04-22-2017),
ralphwg (04-23-2017)
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If the module that generated the code does not reproduce that code after 3 cycles of the ignition typically the fault light will not return. The cluster lights are LEDs by the way. Resetting the car via the method mentioned above would be the next step if the light and code return. Also make certain the battery is either been tendered or new and these cars as well as many modern cars are sensitive to battery voltage drops. A good OBD scanner or dongle with an app is also recommended. And lastly anything software related to the car must be serviced via Jaguar specific diagnostic and service equipment.