Weird annoying pulsing noise
#41
Why are there two per hub?
ive read they arnt easy to change and need a big press with care around the ABS sensor but they are meant to be jag specialists so hopefully done a fair few.
Bit awkward trying to get them to take the hit if it's not the wheel bearing as I know both mechanics personally. Always a difficult one there eh.
The drivers side wheel bearing is definitely louder than the passenger side. Whether it's just one side or both is the next question!
ive read they arnt easy to change and need a big press with care around the ABS sensor but they are meant to be jag specialists so hopefully done a fair few.
Bit awkward trying to get them to take the hit if it's not the wheel bearing as I know both mechanics personally. Always a difficult one there eh.
The drivers side wheel bearing is definitely louder than the passenger side. Whether it's just one side or both is the next question!
#42
I am still puzzled why it would need new front wheel bearings at 19,000 miles? I don't want to keep guessing as costing me dear! Had two good mechanics listen to it on test drive but can't say for certain!
Anyone else had to have new bearings at this sort of mileage?
I guess do the suspected one first but not sure if to do both?
Help!
Anyone else had to have new bearings at this sort of mileage?
I guess do the suspected one first but not sure if to do both?
Help!
There should be no play in a bearing. You lift the car and grab the wheel @ 6 and 12 o'clock. If there's play, it's likely a bad bearing. Do the same with all the wheels so you get the sense and understand play. If you have one bad bearing and you check all four wheels for bearing play, is will stand out.
Don't focus on the fact that a bearing shouldn't be bad at such low mileage. You're right, they shouldn't, but the can and do. It's rare so it's the last thing we think of.
I don't know why your mechanic said it's best to change the tires out first if he thought is was a wheel bearing. Not a good sign if they don't know, unless you're pushing back on their assessment that you may have a bad wheel bearing.
What, if any play do the bushings have? How are the tie rods, the CV joints? Shock mounts?
#43
As you've had the alignment, wheel balance, front tire changed, tested the high speed in neutral (eliminating the tranny mounts), you are primarily left with
Wheel Bearings
CV joints (and this would be even less common than the bearing)
BTW I think you asked you needed to change both hubs or both bearings if you go that route. No to both hubs, yes to both bearings and it's less expensive in terms of labor to just change the hub.
Lastly, it's cheap enough to find another shop, just to get a second opinion.
Wheel Bearings
CV joints (and this would be even less common than the bearing)
BTW I think you asked you needed to change both hubs or both bearings if you go that route. No to both hubs, yes to both bearings and it's less expensive in terms of labor to just change the hub.
Lastly, it's cheap enough to find another shop, just to get a second opinion.
#44
Each hub assembly has an inside and outside bearing. "Usually" a mechanic would just replace the hub assembly and not just the bearings. The replacement hubs have the ABS sensor included. Also the best way to check the bearings assuming when you rock the tires and it feels tight is to remove the brake caliper and then spin the wheel. This takes the pad friction out of the equation.
As you've had the alignment, wheel balance, front tire changed, tested the high speed in neutral (eliminating the tranny mounts), you are primarily left with
Wheel Bearings
CV joints (and this would be even less common than the bearing)
BTW I think you asked you needed to change both hubs or both bearings if you go that route. No to both hubs, yes to both bearings and it's less expensive in terms of labor to just change the hub.
Lastly, it's cheap enough to find another shop, just to get a second opinion.
Wheel Bearings
CV joints (and this would be even less common than the bearing)
BTW I think you asked you needed to change both hubs or both bearings if you go that route. No to both hubs, yes to both bearings and it's less expensive in terms of labor to just change the hub.
Lastly, it's cheap enough to find another shop, just to get a second opinion.
#45
Great advice Sean! Thanks for your input. I think they thought tires because of two things, 1) mileage is only 19k and 2) the tyres were 'blocked' or 'castellated' prob due to been run on incorrect geometry. I did check for play on the bearings and the drivers did have a very tiny movement I think. Everything else seems tight as far as I can see! I have a Video of them spinning but can't seem to upload to here
Can you isolate the pulsing noise to the drivers side from inside the cabin?
Can you have someone else drive and you listen from the passenger side?
You can swap tires Front to back just for a final check. Then have the shop confirm the CV joints are ok. Also have them confirm the bearing play. They do it enough to know for sure.
Try some light swerving as well, bearings usually get louder when you swerve or turn, but not always at the start of wearing out.
What is the point of the spinning the wheels video? Are you hearing something while spinning the wheels?
FYI you can upload AVI or MOV files only or load to Youtube, make public and then post the link.
#46
OK so a couple of quick checks on the bearings. You think you feel play in the drivers side front.
Can you isolate the pulsing noise to the drivers side from inside the cabin?
Can you have someone else drive and you listen from the passenger side?
You can swap tires Front to back just for a final check. Then have the shop confirm the CV joints are ok. Also have them confirm the bearing play. They do it enough to know for sure.
Try some light swerving as well, bearings usually get louder when you swerve or turn, but not always at the start of wearing out.
What is the point of the spinning the wheels video? Are you hearing something while spinning the wheels?
FYI you can upload AVI or MOV files only or load to Youtube, make public and then post the link.
Can you isolate the pulsing noise to the drivers side from inside the cabin?
Can you have someone else drive and you listen from the passenger side?
You can swap tires Front to back just for a final check. Then have the shop confirm the CV joints are ok. Also have them confirm the bearing play. They do it enough to know for sure.
Try some light swerving as well, bearings usually get louder when you swerve or turn, but not always at the start of wearing out.
What is the point of the spinning the wheels video? Are you hearing something while spinning the wheels?
FYI you can upload AVI or MOV files only or load to Youtube, make public and then post the link.
When I spin wheels fast I can hear a bearing type noise as well as the expected rub on pads sound. As suggested, I could remove the caliper but should it then be very quiet? It is louder that I thought . Obviously I can't spin the rears due to diff. The garage has looked at the bearings and said there is slight play on drivers side but they were not sure if that was causing the pulsing vibration sound but suspected! Good eh! I will try and swap rear wheels with front then.
#47
ive tried swerving a little and marginal difference.
When I spin wheels fast I can hear a bearing type noise as well as the expected rub on pads sound. As suggested, I could remove the caliper but should it then be very quiet? It is louder that I thought . Obviously I can't spin the rears due to diff. The garage has looked at the bearings and said there is slight play on drivers side but they were not sure if that was causing the pulsing vibration sound but suspected! Good eh! I will try and swap rear wheels with front then.
When I spin wheels fast I can hear a bearing type noise as well as the expected rub on pads sound. As suggested, I could remove the caliper but should it then be very quiet? It is louder that I thought . Obviously I can't spin the rears due to diff. The garage has looked at the bearings and said there is slight play on drivers side but they were not sure if that was causing the pulsing vibration sound but suspected! Good eh! I will try and swap rear wheels with front then.
It would be difficult to replicate pulsing noise by spinning the wheels. You're basically listening for rubbing sounds, then.
Rather than remove the calipers, just pull the pads and put the wheels back on. It will give you a rough idea but with no weight bearing, may be futile. At least it's free to try.
#48
yeah I would try the swap.
It would be difficult to replicate pulsing noise by spinning the wheels. You're basically listening for rubbing sounds, then.
Rather than remove the calipers, just pull the pads and put the wheels back on. It will give you a rough idea but with no weight bearing, may be futile. At least it's free to try.
It would be difficult to replicate pulsing noise by spinning the wheels. You're basically listening for rubbing sounds, then.
Rather than remove the calipers, just pull the pads and put the wheels back on. It will give you a rough idea but with no weight bearing, may be futile. At least it's free to try.
ive just had a rediculous price for changing one side with a genuine part, near £500 just for one side with specialist, not even main dealer!!! OMG
#49
OK I'm not from the UK and *** has a bit of a different meaning here in the U.S. :-)
If you're buying the part, Moog # 513327 is available @ Rock auto for £89.63. Labor is a different story. Here in the U.S., you bring the part they won't warranty the part but will still warranty their work. Some won't warranty anything unless they supply the part.
If you're buying the part, Moog # 513327 is available @ Rock auto for £89.63. Labor is a different story. Here in the U.S., you bring the part they won't warranty the part but will still warranty their work. Some won't warranty anything unless they supply the part.
#50
OK I'm not from the UK and *** has a bit of a different meaning here in the U.S. :-)
If you're buying the part, Moog # 513327 is available @ Rock auto for £89.63. Labor is a different story. Here in the U.S., you bring the part they won't warranty the part but will still warranty their work. Some won't warranty anything unless they supply the part.
If you're buying the part, Moog # 513327 is available @ Rock auto for £89.63. Labor is a different story. Here in the U.S., you bring the part they won't warranty the part but will still warranty their work. Some won't warranty anything unless they supply the part.
When it comes down to makes of bearings, haven't got a clue as never heard of most of the makes. Prob the same here with me supplying the part and won't take responsibility for it if goes wrong. Will have to see what they can offer and price. Like most things, prob only a years guarantee anyway.
Will keep you all posted!
#51
Ha ha, yes it's the same meaning here in the UK!
When it comes down to makes of bearings, haven't got a clue as never heard of most of the makes. Prob the same here with me supplying the part and won't take responsibility for it if goes wrong. Will have to see what they can offer and price. Like most things, prob only a years guarantee anyway.
Will keep you all posted!
When it comes down to makes of bearings, haven't got a clue as never heard of most of the makes. Prob the same here with me supplying the part and won't take responsibility for it if goes wrong. Will have to see what they can offer and price. Like most things, prob only a years guarantee anyway.
Will keep you all posted!
Why are there two per hub?
ive read they arnt easy to change and need a big press with care around the ABS sensor but they are meant to be jag specialists so hopefully done a fair few.
Bit awkward trying to get them to take the hit if it's not the wheel bearing as I know both mechanics personally. Always a difficult one there eh.
The drivers side wheel bearing is definitely louder than the passenger side. Whether it's just one side or both is the next question!
ive read they arnt easy to change and need a big press with care around the ABS sensor but they are meant to be jag specialists so hopefully done a fair few.
Bit awkward trying to get them to take the hit if it's not the wheel bearing as I know both mechanics personally. Always a difficult one there eh.
The drivers side wheel bearing is definitely louder than the passenger side. Whether it's just one side or both is the next question!
Also, in told the KOYO complete hub assy including bearing and abs sensor is a better option for £179. Made in Japan and heard good reputation. Anyone used these?
#53
#54
Eventful w/e guys!
It went into jaguar main dealers on Friday and although they thought it was bearings, they couldn't say for certain until stripped down and couldn't find any 'play'!
they wanted £1200 to change both hubs!
Anyway, I opted to buy two new hubs from somewhere else and fit myself. Wasn't easy as they were seized into the strut with corrosion and two of the bolts were torx type and you have to take off the anti roll bar drop link.
It has fixed the problem!
Both now spin nice and quiet and on inspection behind the old covers, the grease was all dried up and in hard lumps so the bearings were struggling.
A fraction of the cost anyway
While it was at the dealers, I asked about steering wheel creak and it needs a new clock spring fitting and they quoted £200. Any advice on that? Airbag has to come off so prob can't do myself.
Cheers guys for all the help, got there in the end!
It went into jaguar main dealers on Friday and although they thought it was bearings, they couldn't say for certain until stripped down and couldn't find any 'play'!
they wanted £1200 to change both hubs!
Anyway, I opted to buy two new hubs from somewhere else and fit myself. Wasn't easy as they were seized into the strut with corrosion and two of the bolts were torx type and you have to take off the anti roll bar drop link.
It has fixed the problem!
Both now spin nice and quiet and on inspection behind the old covers, the grease was all dried up and in hard lumps so the bearings were struggling.
A fraction of the cost anyway
While it was at the dealers, I asked about steering wheel creak and it needs a new clock spring fitting and they quoted £200. Any advice on that? Airbag has to come off so prob can't do myself.
Cheers guys for all the help, got there in the end!
#55
Glad to hear you resolved this. Nice work.
Regarding clock spring. Here's an unnecessarily belligerent thread on the subject. It has a couple of PDF's attached for instructions. Ultimately it's up to you to tackle the job. There's absolutely no shame in avoiding an airbag mishap if you're not confident in your ability to disarm it, and it's likely a Takata airbag, so you have that to consider.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-110868/
Regarding clock spring. Here's an unnecessarily belligerent thread on the subject. It has a couple of PDF's attached for instructions. Ultimately it's up to you to tackle the job. There's absolutely no shame in avoiding an airbag mishap if you're not confident in your ability to disarm it, and it's likely a Takata airbag, so you have that to consider.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-110868/
#56
Glad to hear you resolved this. Nice work.
Regarding clock spring. Here's an unnecessarily belligerent thread on the subject. It has a couple of PDF's attached for instructions. Ultimately it's up to you to tackle the job. There's absolutely no shame in avoiding an airbag mishap if you're not confident in your ability to disarm it, and it's likely a Takata airbag, so you have that to consider.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-110868/
Regarding clock spring. Here's an unnecessarily belligerent thread on the subject. It has a couple of PDF's attached for instructions. Ultimately it's up to you to tackle the job. There's absolutely no shame in avoiding an airbag mishap if you're not confident in your ability to disarm it, and it's likely a Takata airbag, so you have that to consider.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-110868/
#59