What did you do to your X150 today?
#2081
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Panthro (07-22-2023)
#2082
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Naperville, Illinois USA
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steve_k_xk (06-30-2023)
#2083
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Changed the High-Pressure fuel pumps on my 5.0 yesterday - front one was good, rear was shot,
Interestingly - the little stumble at idle I had, was completely down to the shot pump,
so If you've got a stumble at idle and have changed plugs, and chased misfires all over the place here's a simple test -
Measure your fuel rail pressure when you start the car
- should go up to 2000 + psi then settle down to warm idle at 690 or so
- turn off engine
- take the rear under tray off and look for the 2 high-pressure fuel pumps on the bottom right side of the engine (from inside car looking forwards)
- disconnect the front high-pressure pump plug
- start engine - check pressures - it should still hold these numbers with one pump.
Stop engine
- reconnect front pump and disconnect rear pump plug
- start and check pressures - anything below 600 on idle is a pump going out
- mine was 47 but could still keep the engine running (barely ) Obviously don't let it run for any length of time.
- alternatively, SDD has a test for this. mine couldn't perform it somehow.
The difference in power now is fecking ridiculous - Clearly, I bought the car with one pump down. it still felt faster than my 5.0 XK but 4000 - 6000 rpm the fuel pressure was dropping - it still pulled but didn't feel fast and on dyno it was at 430hp.
Now it just pulls and pulls and pulls.
SECOND POINT - I bought the Pierberg ones and they worked great but they are a slightly different position where the high-pressure lines attach maybe 5-6mm off... this was a nightmare to get the lines into the correct shape. skinned to bits. buy the JLR ones - otherwise, this isn't a hard job to do.
Next up Crank pulley.
Interestingly - the little stumble at idle I had, was completely down to the shot pump,
so If you've got a stumble at idle and have changed plugs, and chased misfires all over the place here's a simple test -
Measure your fuel rail pressure when you start the car
- should go up to 2000 + psi then settle down to warm idle at 690 or so
- turn off engine
- take the rear under tray off and look for the 2 high-pressure fuel pumps on the bottom right side of the engine (from inside car looking forwards)
- disconnect the front high-pressure pump plug
- start engine - check pressures - it should still hold these numbers with one pump.
Stop engine
- reconnect front pump and disconnect rear pump plug
- start and check pressures - anything below 600 on idle is a pump going out
- mine was 47 but could still keep the engine running (barely ) Obviously don't let it run for any length of time.
- alternatively, SDD has a test for this. mine couldn't perform it somehow.
The difference in power now is fecking ridiculous - Clearly, I bought the car with one pump down. it still felt faster than my 5.0 XK but 4000 - 6000 rpm the fuel pressure was dropping - it still pulled but didn't feel fast and on dyno it was at 430hp.
Now it just pulls and pulls and pulls.
SECOND POINT - I bought the Pierberg ones and they worked great but they are a slightly different position where the high-pressure lines attach maybe 5-6mm off... this was a nightmare to get the lines into the correct shape. skinned to bits. buy the JLR ones - otherwise, this isn't a hard job to do.
Next up Crank pulley.
The following 5 users liked this post by Kyle_rs:
earny (07-02-2023),
kj07xk (07-02-2023),
panthera999 (07-02-2023),
Panthro (07-22-2023),
u102768 (07-02-2023)
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steve_k_xk (07-02-2023)
#2087
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McJag222 (07-03-2023)
#2088
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Naperville, Illinois USA
Posts: 4,636
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steve_k_xk (07-03-2023)
#2089
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#2090
#2091
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#2092
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Left hand exhaust heat shield had worked the bolt loose ...had to release nuts from engine mount from underneath and jack up engine at correct angle in order to put replacement bolt in ...very minimal clearance between strut tower & I couldn't believe how close it sits to the fuel lines talking mm's
#2093
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
100 cell cats finally gone and replaced by magna flow 400cells wohooo....I can't believe how rich and athletic the vehicle sounds now, no ugly raspiness coming from my exhaust... an absolute pleasure to drive , definitely suits the character of the vehicle .
So the db reading was 85-86 under WOT within the cabin which is exactly what the 100s put out however the sound is very different now a lot more richer & refined .
So the db reading was 85-86 under WOT within the cabin which is exactly what the 100s put out however the sound is very different now a lot more richer & refined .
Last edited by steve_k_xk; 07-10-2023 at 06:38 AM.
#2094
#2096
#2097
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#2099
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This weekend, I fixed my glovebox...again. Last time, a bit of the sh*tty plastic arm linking the lid to the string had broken off, so I drilled another hole a bit further and that did the trick.
However, that was not taking into account the sheer ignorance/stupidity of that dude at the Jag dealership in Belgium, who actually broke the whole thing off the lid by opening the glovebox and pressing it down too hard (the lid didn't open 100% by itself, due to the string being attached further). Sadly I couldn't prove it as I only noticed the arm was off when I got back home...so I had to find another fix.
The sh*t plastic arm (seriously, how could they come up with such a crappy design in a car like this, instead of using something proper like a hydraulic cylinder??
) being off and unusable (tried to tie it back to the lid with some little metal blades, but it just broke some more!), all that was left was the string/spring system, and a rectangular hole in the glovebox lid...
So I decided to bend 2 little metal blades and screw them together, to form something that would fit firmly enough in the hole in the lid and to screw a black leather strap cut from an old belt of mine to it. And of course, tie the string to the other end of the strap. It sure took some time and fine tuning, but in the end it works and even doesn't look to bad for a DIY fix, the black leather strap hiding the metal blades.
Picture to follow...stay tuned.
However, that was not taking into account the sheer ignorance/stupidity of that dude at the Jag dealership in Belgium, who actually broke the whole thing off the lid by opening the glovebox and pressing it down too hard (the lid didn't open 100% by itself, due to the string being attached further). Sadly I couldn't prove it as I only noticed the arm was off when I got back home...so I had to find another fix.
The sh*t plastic arm (seriously, how could they come up with such a crappy design in a car like this, instead of using something proper like a hydraulic cylinder??
![Icon Saywhat](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_saywhat.gif)
So I decided to bend 2 little metal blades and screw them together, to form something that would fit firmly enough in the hole in the lid and to screw a black leather strap cut from an old belt of mine to it. And of course, tie the string to the other end of the strap. It sure took some time and fine tuning, but in the end it works and even doesn't look to bad for a DIY fix, the black leather strap hiding the metal blades.
Picture to follow...stay tuned.
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Cee Jay (07-24-2023)
#2100
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