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Today I did the vinyl wrap cover over the door tweeters that Queen & Country discovered as a fix for the audio system quality problem. I want to thank the guys at "East Coast Custom Wraps" in Anderson SC for donating the material and advise on applying it. I did it in a black wrap so they are hardly noticable now. After deleting the tweeters, and rebalancing the controls as QC instructed, it really made a big improvement to the audio sound quality.
Today I did the vinyl wrap cover over the door tweeters that Queen & Country discovered as a fix for the audio system quality problem. I want to thank the guys at "East Coast Custom Wraps" in Anderson SC for donating the material and advise on applying it. I did it in a black wrap so they are hardly noticable now. After deleting the tweeters, and rebalancing the controls as QC instructed, it really made a big improvement to the audio sound quality.
Today I did the vinyl wrap cover over the door tweeters that Queen & Country discovered as a fix for the audio system quality problem. I want to thank the guys at "East Coast Custom Wraps" in Anderson SC for donating the material and advise on applying it. I did it in a black wrap so they are hardly noticable now. After deleting the tweeters, and rebalancing the controls as QC instructed, it really made a big improvement to the audio sound quality.
Hey Phil. Those are the after market tweeters you put in (JBL GX-600C ) or did you reinstall OEM? I ask because I have the same speakers as you and going to put them in the doors this season. Don't want to bother with the crossover and tweeters if they sound better deleted.
These are the OEM tweeters on my 12 XK. The after market ones were on the 07 XK I had last year. IMHO the JBL speakers were much better sounding than my current ones. Q&C discovered the door tweeters actually hurt the sound more than help so covering them acts as a delete. It actually gives more control over midrange sound that was over powered by the tweeters. Were I doing it to the 07 again I would skip the tweeter switch.
Do you have any tips for that job besides consulting the repair manual? I will need to do that in the future.
Stands or hoist
Remove rim
Take the weight of lower control arm with a jack
The caliper will need to be loosened off in order to remove the bolt going through the knuckle so make sure you chock front tyres
Undo the stabiliser link rod (also loosen top nut this will allow more movement)
Remove shock absorber bolt
Now your left with that last two bolts that attach the lower control arm to the rear subframe at this stage you can release the jack and remove the bolt that is closest to the rear of the vehicle
The last bolt is a little tricky to remove the good news is it does come out without dropping the subframe just a lot of spray and wiggling to actually get it out
In terms of installation it's pretty much a reversal however the shock will be the last bolt to go in just use a jack under the lower control arm to position it correctly then insert the bolt
Last edited by steve_k_xk; 05-19-2018 at 05:47 PM.
Today after a thorough repolishing then washed and dried 3 costs of 9-H Ceramic Pro was applied to body and 2 coats to the professionally refinished by repolishing 20” Cremonas. The engine compartment was cleaned using a hand steamer ready for the engine cover that have been carbon fiber hydro dipped and are curing for installation 3 days from now.
New rear rotors and R4-S pads all around in 2 days.
Computer pre-cut window tint kit ordered here in 4 days. So just keeping bizzzy with this wonderful machine.
Took the convertible out on the Apache Trail to Tortilla Flat for lunch (it's an Arizona thing). Not a long drive, but an incredible winding bit of blacktop. Good fun.
Hey Phil. Those are the after market tweeters you put in (JBL GX-600C ) or did you reinstall OEM? I ask because I have the same speakers as you and going to put them in the doors this season. Don't want to bother with the crossover and tweeters if they sound better deleted.
The issue is time-alignment and lack of. If you see the picture below, it shows the tweeter recessed (further back than the midbass driver). This picture is from 50 years ago, when they did not have an electronic way of delaying the tweeter. So if they are all on the same plane the tweeter will be too prominent and drown the other frequencies out. Think Peewee Herman singing with 3 tenors. So if you want to have any tweeter, you need to find a way of electronically delaying it or mechanically delaying it (putting it physically behind the midrange/midbass) Ironically, B&W pioneered this and central to their DNA. This is the legendary 801 speaker from 50 years ago that put B&W on the map.
Spot on, my Canton towers delay the tweeters electronically and are perfectly in balance.....I guess Jag must have been sleeping since the Cantons predate my XK by a lot of years. The wrap works great as an alternative though.
Spot on, my Canton towers delay the tweeters electronically and are perfectly in balance.....I guess Jag must have been sleeping since the Cantons predate my XK by a lot of years. The wrap works great as an alternative though.
Harman licensed the B&W name and pissed all over it.
Indeed its a sacrilege to put Bowers and Wilkerson name on something that is not time-aligned and additionally missing that quintessential bass hump that is B&W and British. https://www.businesswire.com/news/ho...Bowers-Wilkins
Not me but this from the wife. Today she took some left over material and made up this wind screen for the new rear seat tonneau. Took it for a drive and found it really works great. A cool thing about it is that it pulls off easily and fits in the seat pockets when folded up. Additionally, if it gets dirty she can pop it into the washer for cleaning!
She offered to make a new one that matches color better but I think this one is just fine. Count me proud of the Mrs. inovation!
Freshly detailed and ready to appear at the Jaguar Owners Club of LA Concours at the Muckenthaler Cultural Center in Fullerton CA tomorrow. Also installed new footrest.
Today I removed the headlights from the car, as I'll take them for sanding, polishing and clearcoating tomorrow. Car itself will stay at my parent's garage until then. It's amazing how simply removing headlights from a car makes it look derelict.
I also (hopefully) fixed the rear window defogger; I noticed earlier that of the strips were not working:
Through visual inspection, I found that two lines of conductive paint were broken. Thus, I applied some more conductive paint:
Having forgotten to take a multimeter with me, so I'll have to check later whether this worked or not.
Finally, I replaced left side rear light bulbs, save for the indicator. The bulbs had some dark buildup on the glass, so they were probably rather old.
While doing this, I also realized that on my car, the rear light side trim bits are held on with push button fasteners. I don't think this is the case on production XKs, based on photos I've seen online and JEPC which makes no mention of such fasteners. I hope I won't need to replace them any time soon...