What temperature should your xkr be at idle?
#1
What temperature should your xkr be at idle?
Hello everyone:
I still can't get over what temperature should your jag be. I'm in Texas with the outside temp at 96. I keep looking down at my CabrioBob temp and volts meter. My temp reads anywhere from 202 to 212. Should I be worried? What could make it run hot? Could it be the thermostat? There are no leaks anywhere. Or just tell me don't worry and drive it. The volts read anywhere from 13.5 to 12.9. Bad Battery? orrrrrrrr
just quit worrying and just drive it. Thanks for all your comments.
JDog
I still can't get over what temperature should your jag be. I'm in Texas with the outside temp at 96. I keep looking down at my CabrioBob temp and volts meter. My temp reads anywhere from 202 to 212. Should I be worried? What could make it run hot? Could it be the thermostat? There are no leaks anywhere. Or just tell me don't worry and drive it. The volts read anywhere from 13.5 to 12.9. Bad Battery? orrrrrrrr
just quit worrying and just drive it. Thanks for all your comments.
JDog
#2
The thermostat is what...... 210? Therefore the thermostat would keep the coolant near that temp even if 35 fahrenheit ambient.
210 is nothing to worry about, it'll go down a bit once you get it moving and create some airflow anyway.
220 now, start watching real close and prepare to shut down if it get much hotter.
210 is nothing to worry about, it'll go down a bit once you get it moving and create some airflow anyway.
220 now, start watching real close and prepare to shut down if it get much hotter.
The following users liked this post:
ralphwg (09-11-2021)
#3
The following 2 users liked this post by Stuart S:
Addicted2boost (09-10-2021),
steve_k_xk (09-18-2021)
#4
yeah if you think about it, knowing the boiling point of water is 212F, that's what you might be naturally worried about. but your coolant isn't just water, and it's under pressure, so it can't just up and boil as normally as an uncovered pot of water does. coolant resists both boiling and freezing, so a 50/50 mix gives you some protection there. the car will slap you with a big red triangle when you have low coolant or are over temp, those sensors do not commonly fail, so i would say don't worry.
when driving your volt meter is not reading the battery alone. the alternator is also on that circuit. that's a healthy alternator, cranking away at 13.9V to run electric systems and keep the battery from discharging. nothing to worry about there at all.
when driving your volt meter is not reading the battery alone. the alternator is also on that circuit. that's a healthy alternator, cranking away at 13.9V to run electric systems and keep the battery from discharging. nothing to worry about there at all.
#6
I'm just north of you by a state and see the same temps on my ADU at the same ambient temps. I'm pretty sure my voltages are higher, but I don't watch that as closely as the temp, so it may be the same but I haven't noticed. I'm probably going for a drive tomorrow morning and will try to look at mine.
#8
JDog, with the heat we have had this Summer, mine is running between 202 and 215 in traffic. I have seen it as high as 218 when I got hung up in traffic out by IAH at 4:00 PM. As soon as I get moving, it will cool down to 197. Runs cooler in the Winter. I too am using the CabrioBob display.
#9
#10
yeah if you think about it, knowing the boiling point of water is 212F, that's what you might be naturally worried about. but your coolant isn't just water, and it's under pressure, so it can't just up and boil as normally as an uncovered pot of water does. coolant resists both boiling and freezing, so a 50/50 mix gives you some protection there. the car will slap you with a big red triangle when you have low coolant or are over temp, those sensors do not commonly fail, so i would say don't worry.
when driving your volt meter is not reading the battery alone. the alternator is also on that circuit. that's a healthy alternator, cranking away at 13.9V to run electric systems and keep the battery from discharging. nothing to worry about there at all.
when driving your volt meter is not reading the battery alone. the alternator is also on that circuit. that's a healthy alternator, cranking away at 13.9V to run electric systems and keep the battery from discharging. nothing to worry about there at all.
#11
what i mean is what you end up with in the car, one way or another so long as its done right, is not plain water, thus does not boil at 212F or even 220F. some coolants go way, way higher than that! thus a fluid mixture will definitely boil somewhere in-between, and may partially boil if there is local separation (i forget what that's called) and a very hot pocket of water coalesces... but this basically does not happen under normal use.
here's a quick google search result for posterity: https://www.evanscoolant.com/how-it-...o-overheating/ it states a typical mix raises the boiling point to 223F but most of the stuff for performance vehicles i would wager will go to like 235F. nonetheless that's why you should be concerned at 220F, that's a good safe number to treat as the beginning of the danger zone.
Last edited by jons; 09-12-2021 at 10:59 AM.
#14
#15
My jag is reading is reading 13.1 to 12.9 at idle and at 60mph, what could be the reason for showing the low voltage. I know it could be the battery. I keep it on a charger all the time when parked. Should I just wait until a battery light comes on to address this? Or I guess I need to take the car, and have the battery and alternator checked. Any input from my brothers and sisters of my Jag family? Thanks
Joe
Joe
Last edited by JDog; 09-13-2021 at 06:19 PM.
#16
My 2014 shows the same readings as yours JDog. I too thought I had a problem, but I think the low reading may have something to do with the Battery Management System (BMS) on the later models. I switched to a new AGM battery over the winter, not because I experienced any problems, but because my battery was 5 years old. Before switching my standard battery displayed the same readings. I also thought the low readings may be attributed to having the car on a battery maintainer all the time. However, because I drive my in the summer every week I don't use the the battery maintainer and the voltage readings are the same. I optioned for the AGM battery over replacing same wet battery because my car is a convertible and I have a remote control module installed for the windows and top which would be taxing on the battery if used regularly. I hope this helps.
#17
JDog,
Besides the ADU in the Jag, I run a radar detector that displays battery voltage in my 3 other vehicles (all Ford products). The only time I see voltage less than 13v was when the engine is off or I had a bad alternator.
As far as I’m concerned, a working charging system should be putting 13V + into a battery.
I’d be thinking about truly testing the battery outside of the car and then testing the rest of the charging system.
Besides the ADU in the Jag, I run a radar detector that displays battery voltage in my 3 other vehicles (all Ford products). The only time I see voltage less than 13v was when the engine is off or I had a bad alternator.
As far as I’m concerned, a working charging system should be putting 13V + into a battery.
I’d be thinking about truly testing the battery outside of the car and then testing the rest of the charging system.
#18
On the 2010's and newer read up on the battery monitoring system. After so many cycles it goes into a drain cycle which takes the battery down to 12 volts. Also the primary function of the alternator is to maintain a necessary voltage to keep all of the car functions running. The secondary function is to put a controlled charge into the battery. The system does not need to produce 13 - 14 volts all of the time. If you see less then 12.6 V then check for problems. Read this part in the service manual.
#20
On the 2010's and newer read up on the battery monitoring system. After so many cycles it goes into a drain cycle which takes the battery down to 12 volts. Also the primary function of the alternator is to maintain a necessary voltage to keep all of the car functions running. The secondary function is to put a controlled charge into the battery. The system does not need to produce 13 - 14 volts all of the time. If you see less then 12.6 V then check for problems. Read this part in the service manual.
Still loving the C8 jagtoes? I'm still on the wait list for a C8 Z06.
Last edited by DGL; 09-18-2021 at 06:40 PM.