Wheel spacers installed - 2010 XK
#41
#42
I had a chance to install (try to install) the H&R 20mm wheel spacers on the front wheels. I had them bolted up but they didn’t want to tighten all the way. My Orona wheels have deep pocket between the lug holes, but I still think there is a tad bit of interference as the factory lug is just slightly offset and doesn’t fit down the recessed portion straight on.
There is plenty of room to cut down on the factory studs. What’s the best way to do this? I have a dremel and sanding disk.. would that work?
Thanks,
Joe
I bet a couple MM would do the trick.
There is plenty of room to cut down on the factory studs. What’s the best way to do this? I have a dremel and sanding disk.. would that work?
Thanks,
Joe
I bet a couple MM would do the trick.
#43
I had a chance to install (try to install) the H&R 20mm wheel spacers on the front wheels. I had them bolted up but they didn’t want to tighten all the way. My Orona wheels have deep pocket between the lug holes, but I still think there is a tad bit of interference as the factory lug is just slightly offset and doesn’t fit down the recessed portion straight on.
There is plenty of room to cut down on the factory studs. What’s the best way to do this? I have a dremel and sanding disk.. would that work?
Thanks,
Joe
I bet a couple MM would do the trick.
There is plenty of room to cut down on the factory studs. What’s the best way to do this? I have a dremel and sanding disk.. would that work?
Thanks,
Joe
I bet a couple MM would do the trick.
A Dremel with a sanding disk will do it, but it will take quite a while. A Dremel with a cut-off wheel is quicker and what people seem to use. BUT, I have seen more "hack-jobs" done this way then I have seen correctly done.
If you don't mind some extra time, mount the wheel without the spacer as normal, install 3 lug nuts tightly to insure the wheel is properly mounted against the hub. Then take the 4th lug nut and thread it on counting the revolutions/turns until it seats. IF you have more than 13 turns start by taking off only the extra threads above the 13 turns. If you have an extra M12 nut you can thread on far enough so you can use the surface of the nut as a perfect quide for your cut. Once cut you can the use the sanding disk to smooth out the cut and clean up the starting thread. IF you don't have enough clearance doing it this way then it doesn't matter. But if you can pull this off you will still be safe going back to non-spacers in the future without replacing all the cut studs. Oh, and a little cold zinc spray on the bare metal from the cut is always a good idea.
Hope that makes sense,
Dave
Last edited by 10XKR; 07-30-2018 at 08:39 AM.
#44
Hi Joe,
A Dremel with a sanding disk will do it, but it will take quite a while. A Dremel with a cut-off wheel is quicker and what people seem to use. BUT, I have seen more "hack-jobs" done this way then I have seen correctly done.
If you don't mind some extra time, mount the wheel without the spacer as normal, install 3 lug nuts tightly to insure the wheel is properly mounted against the hub. Then take the 4th lug nut and thread it on counting the revolutions/turns until it seats. IF you have more than 13 turns start by taking off only the extra threads above the 13 turns. If you have an extra M12 nut you can thread on far enough so you can use the surface of the nut as a perfect quide for your cut. Once cut you can the use the sanding disk to smooth out the cut and clean up the starting thread. IF you don't have enough clearance doing it this way then it doesn't matter. But if you can pull this off you will still be safe going back to non-spacers in the future without replacing all the cut studs. Oh, and a little cold zinc spray on the bare metal from the cut is always a good idea.
Hope that makes sense,
Dave
A Dremel with a sanding disk will do it, but it will take quite a while. A Dremel with a cut-off wheel is quicker and what people seem to use. BUT, I have seen more "hack-jobs" done this way then I have seen correctly done.
If you don't mind some extra time, mount the wheel without the spacer as normal, install 3 lug nuts tightly to insure the wheel is properly mounted against the hub. Then take the 4th lug nut and thread it on counting the revolutions/turns until it seats. IF you have more than 13 turns start by taking off only the extra threads above the 13 turns. If you have an extra M12 nut you can thread on far enough so you can use the surface of the nut as a perfect quide for your cut. Once cut you can the use the sanding disk to smooth out the cut and clean up the starting thread. IF you don't have enough clearance doing it this way then it doesn't matter. But if you can pull this off you will still be safe going back to non-spacers in the future without replacing all the cut studs. Oh, and a little cold zinc spray on the bare metal from the cut is always a good idea.
Hope that makes sense,
Dave
#45
Hi Joe,
A Dremel with a sanding disk will do it, but it will take quite a while. A Dremel with a cut-off wheel is quicker and what people seem to use. BUT, I have seen more "hack-jobs" done this way then I have seen correctly done.
If you don't mind some extra time, mount the wheel without the spacer as normal, install 3 lug nuts tightly to insure the wheel is properly mounted against the hub. Then take the 4th lug nut and thread it on counting the revolutions/turns until it seats. IF you have more than 13 turns start by taking off only the extra threads above the 13 turns. If you have an extra M12 nut you can thread on far enough so you can use the surface of the nut as a perfect quide for your cut. Once cut you can the use the sanding disk to smooth out the cut and clean up the starting thread. IF you don't have enough clearance doing it this way then it doesn't matter. But if you can pull this off you will still be safe going back to non-spacers in the future without replacing all the cut studs. Oh, and a little cold zinc spray on the bare metal from the cut is always a good idea.
Hope that makes sense,
Dave
A Dremel with a sanding disk will do it, but it will take quite a while. A Dremel with a cut-off wheel is quicker and what people seem to use. BUT, I have seen more "hack-jobs" done this way then I have seen correctly done.
If you don't mind some extra time, mount the wheel without the spacer as normal, install 3 lug nuts tightly to insure the wheel is properly mounted against the hub. Then take the 4th lug nut and thread it on counting the revolutions/turns until it seats. IF you have more than 13 turns start by taking off only the extra threads above the 13 turns. If you have an extra M12 nut you can thread on far enough so you can use the surface of the nut as a perfect quide for your cut. Once cut you can the use the sanding disk to smooth out the cut and clean up the starting thread. IF you don't have enough clearance doing it this way then it doesn't matter. But if you can pull this off you will still be safe going back to non-spacers in the future without replacing all the cut studs. Oh, and a little cold zinc spray on the bare metal from the cut is always a good idea.
Hope that makes sense,
Dave
My studs are pretty rough looking for 32k miles on my 2012 (rusty on non threaded portion). The hot humid air loves the lug nuts too. I ordered replacements to install this week. I’ll wire wheel everything too.. I just couldn’t get the wheel to tighten correctly while trying to use the spacers (the lugs kept trying to get snug with loud rubbing sound).
I went for a ride and knew something wasn’t right. Shimmy and everything. I went back to stock and everything is back perfect again. The only thing I can think of is that the studs need to be trimmed.
I loved the way it looked with the spacers installed. I’ll get it sorted out this week. Going to leave the back stock as I have the 295 tires.
#46
Thanks for the tips! There is some extra space on the lug without getting into the threads. We will see how it goes..
My studs are pretty rough looking for 32k miles on my 2012 (rusty on non threaded portion). The hot humid air loves the lug nuts too. I ordered replacements to install this week. I’ll wire wheel everything too.. I just couldn’t get the wheel to tighten correctly while trying to use the spacers (the lugs kept trying to get snug with loud rubbing sound).
I went for a ride and knew something wasn’t right. Shimmy and everything. I went back to stock and everything is back perfect again. The only thing I can think of is that the studs need to be trimmed.
I loved the way it looked with the spacers installed. I’ll get it sorted out this week. Going to leave the back stock as I have the 295 tires.
Last edited by TexasTraveler; 07-30-2018 at 02:35 PM.
#47
#50
#52
If I remember correctly with 15mm spacers you sometimes have to cut the tip (non-threaded) part of the lug off, so I would assume with 10mm spacers you certainly would have to cut at least that if not more depending on how the wheel you have is constructed... Something else to consider...
#53
#54
If I remember correctly with 15mm spacers you sometimes have to cut the tip (non-threaded) part of the lug off, so I would assume with 10mm spacers you certainly would have to cut at least that if not more depending on how the wheel you have is constructed... Something else to consider...
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