...and a new project is born?

 

Excellent and Thank You. Do I assume that the GVIF interface would allow you to put a back up camera in a 2011 XKR if you wanted to. Don't want to go off topic . The gauge ability looks like a win so with the combination it appears to be able to put the gauge functions on the Nav. screen?

 

There has been some earlier discussion on the backup camera. The GVIF interfaces on the market all require you to manually select the navigation screen when backing up to get the rear view image. Ideally you want to automatically get the image as soon as you go into reverse.

I have committed to look into solving this problem as soon as my Remote Top product is through beta test and into production.

 

The only downside of these interface shims is that they are inserted into the Nav system video feed, so you need to select Nav on the touchscreen, and then select the input you want (navigation, smartphone video output or reversing camera) on the remote control. Not a big deal, but less than seamless.

WhiteXKR, FYI, that link to the Kiwi 2 Bluetooth module says it's for Android/Symbian/Linux/Windows rather than iPhone. There's one called Kiwi 2 WiFi that is iPhone-compatible.

 

Link fixed...thanks

 

I have both of the Kiwi units, wifi (for iPhone, as per Ngarara) and bluetooth, and they're rock-solid. And they're compatible with add-on PLX iMFD sensors.

The DashCommand app is available for either Android or iPhone, and allows custom gauge setup and touchscreen utility. There's also the ability to use DashCommand on the iPad, which would make for a VERY cool external gauge cluster if the install was done well.

I don't know how the car would respond to having a Kiwi plugged into the OBDII port continuously; I've only used mine for on-track parameter logging and basic trouble code reading/clearing.


Rich

 

I just ordered the Kiwi 2 Wifi as it sounds like what I've been looking for to read codes and see sensor data.

 

Interesting. Anyone willing to try this? How can this be integrated with normal infotainment system without interfering with it?

 

It doesn't 'interfere' as such. The nav unit is a completely separate unit that just provides a video feed to the screen; all these switching units do is break into that feed and allow you to substitute a camera or other video feed in place of the nav images. The rest of the system is untouched - as far as it knows, it's showing you the nav system.

Getting a feed from the iPhone is a separate exercise, as is a reversing camera - those are just alternate video sources you could select using the switching unit's remote control.

 

Ya put convolted tubing on the harness to cover whatever length you want protected.

At the connector you make a 'boot' over the where the convoluted tubing meets the connector. The heat shrink covers the end of the connector and also the end of the convoluted tubing. Or put another way.........shove the convoluted tubing up against the connector where the wires enter it. Heat shrink is applied to both the end of the convoluted tubing and the end of the connector.

Down at the lowest point on the convoluted tubing, you drill a small hole to allow any water that gets inside the harness, to escape. Normal procedure on aircraft harnesses. Like the battery harness on a F-16 that is located in the wheel well.

 

Yeah, like I said: waterproofing everything is a faff, and I've decided (based on past experience) that I probably won't bother unless I have problems, other people report a failure pattern, or I see something that looks particularly at risk. But SoCal has made me aware that it's worth checking the state of the wiring.

 

On my car the infotainment system drives the screen for everything switching menus and backup camera control. If one were to install the above components the infotainment would need to know when to not stream an image to the screen but to accept an image from the new device installed. Is the screen management integrated into the components above? How is a conflict resolved when the infotainment wants to send an image and the newly installed component wants to have access to the screen? With the above components is it as simple as plug and play?

 

To bring in an auxiliary video image, such as the gauges, you will need to switch to navigation on the touchscreen then use either the remote control that comes with the GVIF box or a hardwired switch to select between navigation and the auxiliary video source(s).

 

Is this plug and play by simply adding the new component using the existing factory cables and connectors without the need to cut wires etc.?

 

I believe so, though the manual I downloaded was a slightly awkward translation. You unplug the nav unit from the infotainment system & plug it into the switcher, then plug the switcher into the infotainment system. Then you can add other video feeds. When you select 'Navigation' from the touchscreen, you'll see the nav video, until you use the remote for the switcher to select a different feed.

 

Does the 2013 model year use GVIF? I watched a youtube video of a guy that had the GVIF module installed on his Range Rover. He said he was going to get a newer Range Rover which never supported GVIF and will be selling his GVIF module. Is GVIF an old standard which is outdated?

 

I'm not a ME. and I seriously doubt many could answer that question unless they specialize in gas flow, and even then, without knowing the specifics, it would be pretty hard to answer.


But I'll try based on my very limited knowledge of what works and doesn't on modern motorcycle engines. My understanding is that for maximum power, you would want as straight through a system where possible (minimum restriction). Backfiring and popping usually come from air being bled into the back of the exhaust valve to continue combustion on the later part of the exhaust cycle which reduces emissions. On most modern bikes (twins and 4's) this is usually blocked off when the bike is tuned, or used to provide negative crank case pressure by using the positive pressure pulse to create a partial vacuum which can reduce the crank case pressure and reduce pumping losses. Bikes have very simple emissions systems so the one on an XKR may be much more complex than the simple one way flapper valve you'll see on a bike. Bike tuners also do this because most bike engines don't have a closed loop mixture control system, so if you inject clean air after combustion, you'll get an incorrect air/fuel reading with the sniffer. Again, Jags are much more complex probably.


Since you've tuned your car, it's likely that the standard exhaust system may (and I say may) be a limiting factor. If you get a 20% power increase it's reasonable to conclude more fuel is being used and therefore more waste products generated (unless the tune managed to improve the efficiency of the engine - more bang for the same buck so to speak. Now this limitation in the exhaust max flow should only appear at higher rpm with large throttle openings. Other than in those situations, a reduction in back pressure may actually reduce efficiency, and therefore power because the cylinder scavenging effect of the exhaust pulse as it leaves the combustion chamber would be reduced, and therefore would not help to "suck in" the fresh charge to increase volumetric efficiency of the cylinder. If this matters on a supercharged engine with forced induction at our levels of boost - who knows.


Usually if you're trying to change the engine power and torque profile, the exhaust manifold length and configuration is the way to go. Longer headers tend to increase bottom end as does a 4-2-1 config. Those looking for top end will go for a 4-1 with shorter primaries. But I must stress that this is dependent on the engine and my experience is limited to 2 and 4 cylinder engines.


WRT your point about the effect of 1 3/4 inch perforated restrictors, yes, I suspect they will increase back pressure from a 2 1/2 inch system but I couldn't tell if that would affect power delivery. I'm only familiar with two type of exhaust silencer (which is what I assume you mean by "restrictor"), the chambered type where the exhaust enters various chambers with different resonant frequencies and no straight through path and then the straight through type with perforations along the central core which allows some of the energy in the exhaust pulses to be absorbed by some form of loosely compressed matting material like fiberglass. The larger the volume of the chamber, the greater the capacity for absorbing the energy. The downside is that the wadding gradually becomes more and more compressed by the hammering from the exhaust pulses which increases the noise and means they need re-packing periodically.


If I were you I'd shoot Dwight Looi over on the XF forum an email with your questions. He seems to actually know what he's talking about as opposed to me, and might be able to help you with what ever problem you are trying to solve

 

The 2011 workshop manual says:

I don't believe the system has been changed in recent models.

 

After owning my XK8 with the gauges (even if they were really idiot lights in disguise), they were the first things I missed on my XK, but like you, I consider all other aspects of the new model are a great improvement. I got a Jaguar customer survey on the XK, and lack of gauges was really the only negative thing I mentioned.

 

In lieu of factory gauges I am using a small ScanGauge (about $150) that is connected to the OBD II port. It is easy to completely conceal the wiring; and the gauge is mounted by Velcro on the pad behind the steering wheel. I keep monitoring voltage and coolant temp. The ScanGauge is also a code reader.