I was going "out on a weak limb", regarding her using Rhino. Perhaps, she'll chime back with details. Thus far, my window has been holding too. Mine is hibernation /storage, since I'm in the planning stages of replacing a section of my garage roof and deck above.

 

My apologies, as you lost me with your previous reply.

What's on the left corner of your top? If it's a weight, that's a mistake and you should have used the clamps. You should have applied Rhino Glue one section at a time because it dries quickly.

As for your leather dashboard, see:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rating-233590/

 

here’s what I used on recommendation of another thread online. No reason why just found it on first search. Here you go. Ps I wrote a lengthy post at 3am but didn’t seem to post. Must have fallen asleep in Florida

 

On 11-20-2020, you thanked me for giving you advice on how to do this repair. If you had followed my detailed DIY instructions, you wouldn't have the problems you're now dealing with. Sorry, but I can't help you with what you've already done. You should have used Rhino Glue. Good luck with your repair.

Here's a screenshot of what I previously recommended. The complete post wouldn't fit.

 

does the 2011 come in a color called Granite Crystal Grey? And understood. I guess it didn’t work but we will see. And I can always hope to repair it with the info given above. I did receive your input and for some odd stupid reason ((as pointed out)) it wasn’t what was on this thread. My bad

 

There is no Granite Crystal Grey color.

2011 Interior Colors:

• Caramel w/Softgrain Leather Seat Trim [Tan]
• Ivory/Oyster w/Softgrain Leather Seat Trim [Off-white]
• Warm Charcoal w/Softgrain Leather Seat Trim [Gray]

2011 Exterior Colors:

• Botanical Green [Green]
• Cashmere [Beige]
• Caviar [Black]
• Claret [Red]
• Crystal Blue [Blue]
• Ebony [Black]
• Frost Blue [Blue]
• Indigo Blue [Blue]
• Liquid Silver [Silver]
• Lunar Gray [Gray]
• Polaris White [White]
• Spectrum Blue [Blue]
• Stratus Gray [Gray]
• Ultimate Black [Black]
• Vapour Gray [Gray]

See: https://www.autobytel.com/jaguar/xk/2011/color/

The sealant you used is made to repair tents, a fabric-to-fabric bond. Time will tell how long it bonds with the glass rear window.

 

All,

Just wanted to add my datapoint as of today. I just picked the car up from getting a new top. We went with Gahh top and reused the headliner. The Gahh has a lifetime window warranty. It was ~$2300 installed.

We tried the solutions offered here and it bought me a year before I had to do the top. I think mine may have been worse than others as there was just no fabric to install to adhere the window too. I was also still getting leaks, so I had to replace it.

best of luck!

 

Thanks a lot, great tip, Martyn

 

After my fix I have had no issues. Have tested it several times with directly running hose all over the edges of the window roof connection. I put the top down at least daily living in sunny Florida.

for back up tho i did locate a top off eBay for $900. Have yet to secure a person or business to install it but it also isn’t needed just yet. I’m glad for the forum and the direction of everyone here. I found the rhino glue to leave a white thick and obvious haze on the edges of my roof so I opted for the above. Again maybe not the right thing in all viewpoints but thinking this was a suggestion I didn’t realize the aftermath i would get. So sorry to I guess challenge the group. After all your much more of experts than I am or will ever be. But granted my way has worked so far, I take that as a win ... at least at this time. Always have a back up thanks and happy manic Monday.

 

thanks.

 

It’s been a while since my DIY repair for the top liner coming loose and then window popping at both sides. Seems the more I used the top down, it was just a matter of time. Sadly. But it’s been the wettest and hottest summer ever in Tampa Fl. Can you share the companies who might do this repair. Not sure if I now have to get a whole new top. Found on eBay but I need to verify someone can put the thing in correctly as the interior liner is now dark brown ruined with stains. Literally I was taking it tomorrow to trade in with carvana. Paid years ago 31k for 18k mikes cream puff but I’m going to be a younger attractive GIGI (grandma) so when I was offered 29600, my jaw dropped and then a 7” rainday here caused the latest damage.

Thx rhino glue was hard to work with and when it dried, it was fast to dry but ultimately didn’t last forever. It’s been approx 18 months for my fix. I’m done sweating outside tho so willing to pay to have done.

Seeing you were years ago but still maybe, can you inform at kind of shops you took it to? I’ve been to a upholstery stores to no level of success and 7-8k pricing. WTH! Definitely not going to dealer. Would anyone give feedback of if eBay should be sending money back to me or what if any issues? I found for less than $900 but I worry it’s not the same top of our caliber.

I also have lost the a moveable pane that opens when the top is put up/down. There is a slightly stretching wire/string but I can’t put it tied to anything any ideas of what it is top back panel in back driver side seat area and is it also a DIY fix or too cumbersome.? Should anyone special be used to start that repair? Anyone know how much the part is to replace? Amy and all guidance is super appreciated. Hope everyone is well and staying Covid safe.
I hope to hear from you.
take care gents (I don’t know if any female owners posting so if I am crazy with my decisions questions etc, blame it on that tidbit I tried. And now I didn’t lol.

Not great pic. Dismal day and shadows.

Showing the water damage now in headliner. Made me so sad as I saw while driving and pouring rain. So day was worse and worse. Any guides me will help. Thanks

Alina

 

See Post #94 Tampa FL replacement tops:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-113105/page5/

See Post #7, Moving Flap Kit:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ap-kit-249643/

I'm confused. You just said that you used Rhino Glue, but in your Post #303, above, you said that you used this tent fabric repair product "FCSS".
Post #303



Your repair should still be holding if you had used Rhino Glue and followed the instructions. If you used Rhino Glue on top of FCSS, that's why your repair failed. You should have completely scraped off the FCSS before using Rhino Glue. If FCSS was the only adhesive you used, that's why it didn't hold up.

Once the window begins to fail, simply repairing the loose section is not enough because the rest of the glass will continue to separate from the fabric. All that original adhesive will eventually fail, and all of the glass will eventually need to be reglued as the original adhesive continues to fail.

 

Alina,

Since I did the repair myself using Rhino Glue and it has held for the last 2+ years I don't have any direct recommendations for a shop. However, the guy that opened this whole discussion used a place in St. Pete, on Haines Road, called Top of the Line Interiors for his top. They are pretty well reviewed on Google for what it is worth. But I have never used them for anything so cannot vouch for them.

That is all the direction I can give you at this time.

Mark.

Here is the previous dialog regarding the shop in St. Pete:
Top of the Line Interiors
6777 Haines Rd N, St. Petersburg, FL 33702

 

In a separate thread, Savitt1 explained why her repair failed. She stated "thanks Stuart S. I did rhino glue with tent repair compound on top so there’s the reason why as you said." See her Post #95 here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-113105/page5/

Using a different adhesive on top of Rhino Glue won't work.

 

Well... my turn. Had to happen eventually, I suppose.

Hurdle #1: there has apparently been a run on the Suck-n-Clamps nationwide. I blame Stuart. Any leads? The Amazon link on this thread seems only to sell a 12-pack, and Walmart is out of them...

https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRL-SC6-S...Pack/225604200

EDIT: found them here:
https://www.dkhardware.com/suck-n-cl...uct-26093.html

And here, on Amazon, but this seems to ship from overseas:

 

Also, I read through the posts, and I have a probably stupid question about the actual application of the glue, since I've not had had good luck, long-term, with super-glues:
I find one part of the Rhino Glue instructions unclear (beyond the "less is better" advice): how best to apply? It this a one-side-only coating, or both sides? A few seconds to set, or this is more a case of laying down a quick bead to one side (along the glass, I'd assume) and clamping immediately? And is using too much really that bad? I'd really worry about not using enough.
Thanks as always...

 

PK, it doesn't take much at all, I like others applied to the glass only and have had no issue. You will need to clean up the edge as it will have old adhesive residue.

Rhino comes out as a liquid, not a gel, so it spreads pretty well. If you go the route of too much make sure you get the excess up after applying pressure while wet. Once that stuff dries it is like concrete. I did mine in manageable stretches, the first one I put down I let it dry with the seepage and it was rough getting rid of that, trying to cut away the gunked adhesive along the cloth line of the top with a razor blade took forever and I had some moments where blade and cloth made contact which was no good. Seriously, that area I allowed the excess to dry was my nemesis for a while, really made me mad that I had done that. You can use tape to mask the glass but make sure you pull the tape away before it dries or you end up with a small tape line glued to your window. Again from my first line of gluing

It starts to set quickly, didn't time it as I put the line down and clamped it in position. Did this in a couple of minutes so can't tell you just how long you have to fuss with positioning.

 

Well when I got pricing on the replacement top, that was the beginning of the end. Traded car with carvana for exactly what I paid for it 2 years ago and they took it with top issue. Things worked out and maybe again one day. Everyone enjoy your rides and be safe.

 

Hi,
Time for an update on my window re-glue, utilizing the Stuart S "Rhino procedure". (see my orig. Posts 289 & 291). Outcome:
10 mos. Later, it's still holding fast.
Background:
Living in the N/E, I use the Convertible sparingly, and only in beautiful weather. I have a 3-Season XK, which affords me that luxury. Bottom-line, the Convertible is a fair weather fun-car only. Therefore, testing is limited, and never in harsh conditions. So far, the window repair has been solid;
up/down and in between. (again, car is sparingly used.).
What I did:
I followed the accepted procedure, outlined in previous posts: I utilized a thin layer of Rhino, with multiple suck-clamps closely spaced. I also used a number of wooden paint stirs, for even pressure. Bunched up towels & pillow throws, were placed inside veh.at window site, propping it up internally, to stabilize during clamping/glue curing.
The glass seperated from it's canvas Top in 2 locations: the entire lower edge, & 2/3's up one side. Work was done during Fall, in an unheated garage. Since the vehicle was being put to bed 'til Spring, I decided to maintain Clamping for an extended period; much longer than suggested. I kept it clamped for10 days, with a space heater aimed toward the site in 12hr intervals, for the first 3 days.
The only other deviation to suggested practices was my decision to not remove the in-place product remant of a failed past gluing (possibly, as Stuart S suggests, a popular 3M product. - see his post #290).
I decide not to remove, because it was rock-hard solid, and near impervious to chipping. it was also scored with fine lines where the weave of the canvas top had previously embedded . I Thought that this scoring would give me a rough enough base to aid in bonding. The fact that the Rhinon Glue touts itself as a "product that will bond with anything", gave me the final impetuous to try this unorthodox move. It's held til now....so far, so good.

 

It's good to see that the glue fix is working for some people. In 2015 I had a shop glue the glass back in but they wouldn't guarantee it would hold. It didn't, failed within a few days. So I had the top replaced for about $1,325 including installation. The new top lasted about 5 years. I do keep the car parked outside and it is hit by the brutal Southern California sun every day of the year. So not surprising that the glue would fail eventually even on a brand new top. I was resigning myself to buying a new top and having it replaced. Prices had gone up significantly since then. It's about $1,500 for a new top now (was about $600 back then...aftermarket...not Jaguar stock!)

I spoke to a local Auto Upholstery shop in LA and they were gonna replace the top for about $1,850 installation included. I was about to get the job done and did put a $500 deposit while we waited for the top to be delivered. That's when I decided to track back to my purchase in 2015. The shop who did the replacement was now out of business. But I was able to find out that the new top back then probably came from Robbins or GAHH. Apparently these two companies are somehow related to each other. One guy said that's our sister company about the other. So I went to GAHH to ask about the warranty on my top. Looks like Batz Auto Upholstery did indeed purchase my top from them 9/29/15. I saw the data I had input on driverside.com. They’re gonna replace the top because the rear glass had a lifetime warranty at the time of purchase. They now only give a 5 year warranty on that. So GAHH is gonna send the new top to Reyes Auto Upholstery off Alameda and they need to ship back the old top. Install cost will be $650 and comes out of my own pocket. New top was gonna cost me about $1,200. Thank you lifetime warranty. Typical though that they're not offering lifetime warranty on this top anymore. :-(