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with the top positioned correctly as seen in the pic i provided you won't need a clamp for the top edge. The top edge will lay perfectly on the glass, you can use a prop on the underside, if needed. Cure time is quick so if you apply pressure by hand it will only be for a couple of minutes.
Can you please re publish the picture you are referring to, I also have the 07 XKR and the top is the seam that needs to be re-glued. I was wondering when you said properly positioned you would not need clamps. Thank you all for such great information
Here is some more info on a fix for anyone interested. Thanks to a senior member post from New Zealand I tackled this job myself. I've reattached the technical bulletin he provided and some pictures of the repair job I just finished. While it is too soon to say this repair will last for a long period, I'm confident it will last until the time comes to replace the top, which is several years away to my best estimation.
I had ordered the repair solvent and adhesive seen in the technical bulletin from Jaguar. These products are available elsewhere for less, Amazon for example.
The window glass separation on my car was the entire lower edge. This large separation just happened with a trip we made, top up for a period of time at highway speeds. Had I noticed the separation when it started this would have been much easier.
The only thing I would do differently is to remove the excess adhesive and masking tape when done with the job - and applied less adhesive. I waited overnight. I then had to take a razor blade to trim the excess. No big deal, but when trimmed the adhesive colored white, rather than black as when applied. If this does not naturally correct, I will need to take a fine brush and some touch up paint.
Preparation took most of the time and all together this took me 2.5 hours day one and about 1.5 hours day two (removing the masking tape and trimming adhesive) You will need a gun for the adhesive like this one: ****-Data 50ml Dispenser AB Gun 1:1 /1:2 Impression Mixing Dispensing Gun
Final job. Note some of the white coloration along the edge. Could have been avoided by removing excess at time of application, rather than the following day.
how long did the fix last? is it still holding? in one of your followup threads you mentioned being able to do the top seam the same way but not having to use the clamps. I am about to try that do you have any advice update before I do?
So I had complete seperation on the top of the Window and tried to find someone to repair it. The only responses were a new top for $2,000.
I tried the 3M product mentioned in this thread and bought 6 suction cups to hold it in place on Amazon. I used a razor blade to cut off excess. I think it came out looking great but WILL IT Last. We can only hope. THANKS all for the posts.
Jim
your process looks different. it looks like you also supported from the underside as well. The repair you did is exactly what I am facing now, did the 3 m hold for you and how long?
If you found this thread because your rear glass has separated from the cloth top, you should read this entire thread from the beginning. There are various adhesives, clamps, and DIY methods and some work better than others. Many posts include helpful, detailed instructions with photos.
It's your car, your money, and your choice as to what to do.
My first attempt was with the recommended 3M adhesive, but it was messy and the bond failed after a few months. My second try was with Rhino Glue and Suck 'n Clamps, which was much less messy and is still holding up. That worked for me, but that was a while ago and there are probably other products that work just as well.
I used Rhino Glue Ultra and suck-in clamps, with a rolled-up blanket to provide pressure from the back side. After two months and frequent raising and lowering, it’s holding up perfectly.
Stuart, The Rhino Pro kit has Gel Glue, and regular Glue, which one did you use?
Everything I did is detailed in this thread. Rhino Glue expanded their product line after I did my repair and I'm pretty sure that I used their regular glue. I know that it wasn't a gel.
At the top of this Forum are "Sticky" Threads. Open the Sticky titled "How To / DIY Repair & Maintenance", and scroll down to "3. CONVERTIBLE TOP Rear Window - Repair" and click on the link for all you need to know.
Hi Stuart, I am having the same issue with my 2007 XKR.
I had a shop follow your previous instructions with the 3m window weld and it failed right away. How has the Rhino glue held up? I am between that and 3m 5200 marine adhesive. What was your method regarding the rhino glue? Thanks, I am getting desperate!
Hi Stuart, I am having the same issue with my 2007 XKR.
I had a shop follow your previous instructions with the 3m window weld and it failed right away. How has the Rhino glue held up? I am between that and 3m 5200 marine adhesive. What was your method regarding the rhino glue? Thanks, I am getting desperate!
Seriously? I never recommended using 3M adhesive! It failed when I tried it and it's messy. Obviously, you haven't read this thread from the beginning or my old posts.
My old posts include detailed instructions with photos. If you had read them, you wouldn't be asking your questions. I'm not going to reinvent the wheel and spoon feed the answers to you.
Read Posts ##351 and 352, and the links therein. Read each thread from the beginning to the end.
Old doctors never die. They just lose their patients.
My apologies for being mean and nasty. My pet squirrel had a really bad day.
I recall that after your first window repair failed you switched from 3M products to Rhino Ultra Glue with which you had a success. I bought the Rhino Glue but need to know how that may have changed your step-by-step repair instructions in your original, 2017 post--which is beyond excellent!
Per your recommendation I also obtained Goof-Off adhesive cleaner, 1" and 2" duct tape, cotton swabs, rubber gloves and a six-pack of Suck-N-Clamps. I also have six paint stirrers. My window is separated at the top and on the sides. Anything to add you your earlier post
I have nothing to add to my earlier posts, except that my repair using Rhino Glue is still good.
The key to a successful DIY repair is to take your time and do one section at a time. Surface prep is very important, as you need to scrape off as much of the old adhesive as possible. With mine, I had to remove the failed black 3M adhesive and then rough up the rock-hard OEM adhesive using a scraper razor blade and a small file. You'll know the right amount of Rhino Glue to use by trial and error - not too little and not too much. Just enough is when it just starts to squeeze out when the Suck N Clamp gets tight.
Read my old posts again, and posts of other members, for more tips on how to do it.
What changes to repair procedures did you make, if any, when you switched to Rhino glue? I have all of the gear your 2017 post recommended (including the suction clamps from Amazon) but substituted Rhino glue for the failed 3M products. I am ready to repair my separated window (at the top edge) once I have a comment from you on this.
I am new to the forums so if this post gets misdirected somehow, please fellow posters, get it to Stuart S.
06-18-2022, 05:35 AM
