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Thanks for your suggestion to get the top to attach to the window. But I think that I would have to stretch the top for too much of a distance to glue it to the window. And if I glued the window to the top with the top in the open position, I'm afraid that it will pull loose once I close it. I've gone ahead and ordered a new GAHH top (because of references in this thread) and will get it installed by a local shop. Top and installation will come to $2,845 with 5-year warranty on the glass staying attached. Please let me know how your repair comes out.
I realize you went with the new top, and the price you were quoted with a guarantee, sounds reasonable to me given the amount of labor involved. But for the sake of others that may be interested in pursuing the fix route, I decided to elaborate on your comment here.
Trying to get the canvass top to extend to replicate the original coverage area along the perimeter of the rear window, I agree, is virtually impossible. We have to settle with getting the canvass coverage to reach, in my case about 50% of the original glass coverage gluing area. This mitigates, to some extent, the canvass shrinking problem by creating less pull force... and then securing with the glue and suction tools and holding it in this position over night.
The test comes at two levels:
a) as you continue the top down process from yesterday's work position, the canvass pulls away from the window in an almost 100% vertical direction as it enters the trunk area;
b) when you put the top back up the canvas pulls in a more horizontal direction (actually less stress on the glue than the vertical pull position) and again, mostly along the top of the window.
Understanding the stress positions helped me better formulate a practical fix, i.e., how to mitigate the canvas shrink problem without over stressing the Rhino glue.
Special thanks to Stuart who directed us all to both the technique and especially the Rhino!
Mazz1
BTW - My fix appears to be holding up well but I will report back from time to time.
4. Adhesive cleaner (already had)
5. Masking tape, 1" wide and 2" wide. (already had)
6. Cotton swabs. (already had)
7. Rubber gloves. (already had) you'll probably need 2 or 3 pair.
8. Standard caulk gun (already had) for the adhesive tube.
Phase 2. Preparation
1. I inspected the top again to see where it separated from the glass. I noticed a gap of about 1/4" where the top appears to have shrunken downward from the glass. The top fabric wouldn't stretch, so i decided to apply masking tape over that visible section so i wouldn't get adhesive all over it.
2. I taped the glass to keep it free of excess primer and adhesive, which are black and very sticky.
Here's the glass completely taped.
3. Next, i taped the top, making sure that i overlapped about 1/4" of tape around the upper edge, in order to keep it free of adhesive. Here's the upper edge of the top being taped.
4. I put all the suction cup clamps on the glass and aligned them with the upper edge of the top, but left them loose. Because the adhesive dries very quickly, i wanted the clamps to already be in place so i could tighten them down as soon as i applied the adhesive.
5. Lastly, i added a wider band of tape just in case i got sloppy. I'm glad i did, because i did. Disregard the green plant food measuring cup. I was going to use it as a wedge to separate the top and glass in order to get the adhesive in, but doing so was cumbersome and i simply used my left hand to hold the top up while i applied the adhesive cleaner, primer, and sealant with cotton swabs. The arrow is the point where the top separated from the glass.
phase 3. The dirty stuff
1. Now's the time for the gloves. I wiped both surfaces with cotton swabs soaked in adhesive cleaner, and then used new swabs to dry them off.
2. I waited about 5 minutes and then used cotton swabs to carefully apply the 3m single step primer to both surfaces. I let that dry for about 10 minutes. I left all the clamps loose. Here's the open bottle of primer.
3. I decided to not use the plastic spout that came with the 3m adhesive cartridge since that would make a mess. Instead, i used cotton swabs to apply that adhesive. I pulled the tab to open the bottom of that cartridge so i could put it in the caulk gun and squeeze a small amount of adhesive into a leftover yogurt cup. Here's the opened adhesive cartridge.
and the adhesive in the cup.
i kept the tip of that cartridge temporarily sealed with a cotton swab. I used the cotton swabs to apply a thin bead of adhesive to both surfaces as quickly as i could. When that swab ran out of adhesive, i tightened the clamps and got a new cotton swab and repeated the process. Here's the separated section completely glued. As you can see, it's messy and i'm glad i masked it to keep it free of adhesive.
phase 4. The home stretch
1. Although the adhesive sets up fast, i didn't want to try to remove the masking tape too soon and risk smearing adhesive on the glass, top, or paint. I waited about 30 minutes and then removed the masking tape.
done!
i decided to leave the clamps on overnight, just to make sure that the bond is as strong as possible.
A note about the suck-n-clamps. They are the greatest thing since sliced bread! I was skeptical when i saw them on amazon, but they work much better and are far easier to use in this repair application than a standard "c" clamp. As you can see from my repair, it wasn't necessary to raise the top to insert a "c" clamp above and below the separation, or use a board to distribute the clamping force (although you could, if you wanted to do so).
I'm not a mechanic, but i'm somewhat mechanically inclined since i assemble my grandkids toys. On a scale of 1 to 10, i'd give this job a 2 - really easy. All it takes it patience and taking your time. If i can do it, so can you.
It didn't take much primer or adhesive to do this repair. There's at least 90% of the primer and adhesive left, so if you're interested in doing this repair yourself, send me a pm and i'll sell the leftover primer, adhesive, and clamps for half of what i paid plus shipping at cost.
Hope this helps!
Stuart
stuart -- just read your 2010 post. How long did the convertible top rear window repair hold? -- henry a.
Your Public Profile shows that you joined this Jaguar X150 Forum today and have a 2006 Audi Cabriolet. Although there's no requirement to own a Jaguar, I wonder if you got any advice from the Audi forum.
It appears that you didn't read the entire thread that you quoted. If you did, you would have known that the 3M adhesive I used prematurely failed, and I don't recommend it. You should read that entire thread from beginning to end because it has really good advice from many members who used various brands of adhesives that worked for them, including that 3M adhesive.
Rhino Glue isn't the only adhesive that works, as reported by other Forum members.
Note that my XKR is not my daily driver and it's always garaged with the top up. I don't intentional drive in the rain, although that happened a few times and there were no leaks. I always put the top up when parked outside and use a custom-fit reflective Jaguar sunshade to protect the leather dash and keep the interior from getting too hot and possibly weakening the Rhino Glue bond. Experiences vary as usage and climates differ. Georgia is hot, but not as brutal as Florida, Louisiana, and Texas. You're in Chicago, and the frigid winters might weaken the Rhino Glue bond. Maybe some Rhino Glue users in Chicago will chime in with their experience.
Your Public Profile shows that you joined this Jaguar X150 Forum today and have a 2006 Audi Cabriolet. Although there's no requirement to own a Jaguar, I wonder if you got any advice from the Audi forum.
It appears that you didn't read the entire thread that you quoted. If you did, you would have known that the 3M adhesive I used prematurely failed, and I don't recommend it. You should read that entire thread from beginning to end because it has really good advice from many members who used various brands of adhesives that worked for them, including that 3M adhesive.
Rhino Glue isn't the only adhesive that works, as reported by other Forum members.
Note that my XKR is not my daily driver and it's always garaged with the top up. I don't intentional drive in the rain, although that happened a few times and there were no leaks. I always put the top up when parked outside and use a custom-fit reflective Jaguar sunshade to protect the leather dash and keep the interior from getting too hot and possibly weakening the Rhino Glue bond. Experiences vary as usage and climates differ. Georgia is hot, but not as brutal as Florida, Louisiana, and Texas. You're in Chicago, and the frigid winters might weaken the Rhino Glue bond. Maybe some Rhino Glue users in Chicago will chime in with their experience.
Good luck with your repair!
Stuart
Stuart - Thanks for the advice. Appreciate it. Unfortunately the AudiForum was not as comprehensive as the JaguarForum for repairs on convertible tops. Best, Henry A.
I realize you went with the new top, and the price you were quoted with a guarantee, sounds reasonable to me given the amount of labor involved. But for the sake of others that may be interested in pursuing the fix route, I decided to elaborate on your comment here.
Trying to get the canvass top to extend to replicate the original coverage area along the perimeter of the rear window, I agree, is virtually impossible. We have to settle with getting the canvass coverage to reach, in my case about 50% of the original glass coverage gluing area. This mitigates, to some extent, the canvass shrinking problem by creating less pull force... and then securing with the glue and suction tools and holding it in this position over night.
The test comes at two levels:
a) as you continue the top down process from yesterday's work position, the canvass pulls away from the window in an almost 100% vertical direction as it enters the trunk area;
b) when you put the top back up the canvas pulls in a more horizontal direction (actually less stress on the glue than the vertical pull position) and again, mostly along the top of the window.
Understanding the stress positions helped me better formulate a practical fix, i.e., how to mitigate the canvas shrink problem without over stressing the Rhino glue.
Special thanks to Stuart who directed us all to both the technique and especially the Rhino!
Mazz1
BTW - My fix appears to be holding up well but I will report back from time to time.
Well it's Dec. 24, 2023 and my Jags rear window has been holding up well (job completed back in July)... no sign of glue fatigue. That Rhino glue is brittle but it's good stuff, thanks again to Stuart for sharing his knowledge on the subject.
FYI, the Jag is garaged and I live in Delaware where the Summers get hot but not as hot as Tx., or Fl., and we do get freezing temperatures in Winter, but not extreme. Remember, I first used Gorilla glue and Gorilla tape together because of this products flex characteristics... but it softened and failed in the Summer heat.
Last edited by Mazz1; 12-24-2023 at 02:38 PM.
Reason: minor word clarification
My XK is garaged 10 months (Delaware), 2 months (July & Oct - Vermont) no garage; driven regularly year-round, I keep the top up whenever in the garage.
Your Public Profile shows that you joined this Jaguar X150 Forum today and have a 2006 Audi Cabriolet. Although there's no requirement to own a Jaguar, I wonder if you got any advice from the Audi forum.
It appears that you didn't read the entire thread that you quoted. If you did, you would have known that the 3M adhesive I used prematurely failed, and I don't recommend it. You should read that entire thread from beginning to end because it has really good advice from many members who used various brands of adhesives that worked for them, including that 3M adhesive.
Rhino Glue isn't the only adhesive that works, as reported by other Forum members.
Note that my XKR is not my daily driver and it's always garaged with the top up. I don't intentional drive in the rain, although that happened a few times and there were no leaks. I always put the top up when parked outside and use a custom-fit reflective Jaguar sunshade to protect the leather dash and keep the interior from getting too hot and possibly weakening the Rhino Glue bond. Experiences vary as usage and climates differ. Georgia is hot, but not as brutal as Florida, Louisiana, and Texas. You're in Chicago, and the frigid winters might weaken the Rhino Glue bond. Maybe some Rhino Glue users in Chicago will chime in with their experience.
Good luck with your repair!
Stuart
Hi Stuart,
Its been awhile, I am wondering why you always have the top up when garaged? I only drive during the summer and very rarely put the top up, at night I cover the car. Is there a reason to keep the top up?
Thanks
Jim
Hi Stuart,
Its been awhile, I am wondering why you always have the top up when garaged? I only drive during the summer and very rarely put the top up, at night I cover the car. Is there a reason to keep the top up?
Thanks
Jim
when I had my top replaced I was advised to put the top up when parked as the mechanism exerts the most pressure on the rear window with the top down. Putting it up extends the life…with my new top I received a lifetime guarantee on the rear window…
Anyone any experience of commercial repairs and/or having a new hood fitted in the UK please?
I have this problem, and have been delaying a final solution by regluing every year or two. But its all getting rather messy now. Ideally, I guess I want someone to remove the glass, clean everything up, refit the glass with glue, then run a line of stitching around just outside the glass to take the strain off the adhesive.
Any comments, suggestions, or contacts to do this work in the UK would be gratefully received.
After 3 years of ownership it finally happened to me too, all except the bottom edge of my window has separated from the fabric top. Having been part of the forum for some time it was no surprise to me and I have ordered a bottle of Rhino glue as recommended. Thankfully I already have a stash of the clamps on hand (used when installing the trim to a series 3 XJ6 windscreen).
Ill let you know how it goes.
All done and pleased with the result. both sides and the top came loose so not a small repair, i did have a certain amount of shrinkage with the top so it's not in quite the right position but for the sake of $16 vs $3K+ for a new top (fitted), i'd say its good enough.
Many thanks to the innovative pioneers on this forum that are willing to work more solutions than just throwing money at it.
My 2010 XK finally decided it was time for the window to let go - 14 years is good for any glue I would say.
Unfortunately my car is outside in the 100 degree DC metro heat and I have a few more bills than cash until I sell some properties and such.
Nice fellow in Alexandria will replace my top for $2,200 in one day but I don’t have that cash handy today - so many blessing to Stuart and his post.
I followed Stuart’s rhino glue solution and apart from me rushing and my sloppiness it has worked very well for the last month.
I did add an additional component - the rarely seen and highly regarded Jaguar XK Rear Window Support System. The JXKRWSS or affectionately known as the Jags *** - which is a complex system of toliet paper rolls and leather glued together and inserted into the rear window well to ease the weight and stress of the glass window on the glue and canvas.
Pictures attached and I am taking orders for $2,200 per set. Cash or diamonds only.
As a Triumph, Lotus, and now second time Jaguar owner, thank you to the community of fine folks that make these cars fun and exciting to own.
Best,
Ash Worboys The toliet paper rolls worked well but they seemed to hurt the big cat’s prestige- kind like being a big shot and walking around with toilet paper attached to your shoe. This seems more civilized. It does seem to help with the weight especially on the very hot days. Well, it guess it had to happen sooner or later.
Of course, you'll have to cut it and figure out how to fit it around corners. You might want to see if a local trim shop can do it, as they have better cutting tools and skills.
08-04-2023, 07:51 AM
