Windshield Washers Stopped Working
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Location: Fort Lauderdale, Florida, and Grand Cayman Island
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Windshield Washers Stopped Working
I have a 2011 XKR convertible and yesterday I noticed my windshield washers weren't working. There's plenty of fluid in the "well"; in fact it's topped off. I imagine I've got a clog in the line but before I take it to my dealer, I thought I'd ask the wizards on this forum if they have any other thoughts.
Thank you and happy first day of spring to you all!
—Dave
Thank you and happy first day of spring to you all!
—Dave
#2
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Naperville, Illinois USA
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#5
Dave,
Shame on you for such a thought.
Blocked jet or failed pump, it's not a difficult repair but the dealer cost would be outrageous. Save the money and have the priceless satisfaction of fixing it yourself.
Graham
Shame on you for such a thought.
Blocked jet or failed pump, it's not a difficult repair but the dealer cost would be outrageous. Save the money and have the priceless satisfaction of fixing it yourself.
Graham
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V7Sport (03-22-2022)
#6
Keep in mind that there are pressure operated check valves in the washer line system... So if you blow on a line and think it's stuck, it might not be.
There's one check valve under the cowl that's a plastic tee. It will block flow unless you insert a wire or paperclip into the inlet side. Your breath is not strong enough to open this valve... It needs a physical object or liquid (like washer fluid) to open, as those things are non-compressible.
There's one check valve under the cowl that's a plastic tee. It will block flow unless you insert a wire or paperclip into the inlet side. Your breath is not strong enough to open this valve... It needs a physical object or liquid (like washer fluid) to open, as those things are non-compressible.
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MarkyUK (03-25-2022)
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GGG (03-26-2022)
#9
Same happened to me when I got my current car, the washers were not working the day I collected it. I discovered this when about halfway through the 7 hour drive home. How it passed the UK MOT test the day before I collected it, I'll never know (they have to be working to pass the test).
Anyway, chances are it'll be gunk collected on the inlet of the screenwash pump. When you operate the washers with the headlights switched on, every fourth or fifth wash is supposed to wash the headlamps. Does that still work? Screen and headlamp washers have separate pumps and the headlamp pump is mounted a little higher up the tank so usually the gunk collects near the bottom and blocks the screenwash pump first.
Raise and support the front of the car on whatever side the screenwash fill pipe is located, remove that wheel and remove the rear half of the wheel arch liner. The tank and pumps is immediately behind the liner. I syphoned out as much screenwash as I could from the tank then removed the electrical connection and hose from the lower pump then the pump just pulls free from the tank. The pipe has a black rubber grommet around it, this is perforated at the end and acts as a filter. That'll likely be blocked, clean it off then refit everything, fill up and off you go. If you want a "stretch goal", remove both pumps and the level sensor from the tank, remove the filler pipe (just lifts up and out I think) and remove the tank (one or two bolts then pull it forwards) and clean it out thoroughly. If you live in an area with hard water then you could use filtered water to fill the tank to help mitigate this in future.
Anyway, chances are it'll be gunk collected on the inlet of the screenwash pump. When you operate the washers with the headlights switched on, every fourth or fifth wash is supposed to wash the headlamps. Does that still work? Screen and headlamp washers have separate pumps and the headlamp pump is mounted a little higher up the tank so usually the gunk collects near the bottom and blocks the screenwash pump first.
Raise and support the front of the car on whatever side the screenwash fill pipe is located, remove that wheel and remove the rear half of the wheel arch liner. The tank and pumps is immediately behind the liner. I syphoned out as much screenwash as I could from the tank then removed the electrical connection and hose from the lower pump then the pump just pulls free from the tank. The pipe has a black rubber grommet around it, this is perforated at the end and acts as a filter. That'll likely be blocked, clean it off then refit everything, fill up and off you go. If you want a "stretch goal", remove both pumps and the level sensor from the tank, remove the filler pipe (just lifts up and out I think) and remove the tank (one or two bolts then pull it forwards) and clean it out thoroughly. If you live in an area with hard water then you could use filtered water to fill the tank to help mitigate this in future.
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Jaxxr1 (03-29-2022)
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