History: Have had the 2013 XK SE about a week. Since it had the original battery, I installed a new DuraCell SLI49AGM. To avoid losing settings, I attached a RG1000 IntelliBoost. Perhaps because of 38 years working on my XJ-S with Positive on the LEFT, I connected the Boost with reverse polarity. After realizing why it was beeping at me, I took the Boost off, set it aside, and simply removed the cables, and installed the new battery.

After the installing the new battery, the engine started fine but displayed the Check engine light for a few minutes. Since it didn't stay on, I drove the car about 12-15 miles with a few stops. Got the brief CEL after each start.

So, I bought a HT200 OBD reader to check the code using my Android SmartPhone. Following the HT200 directions, I plugged the module in, turned the ignition on without starting the engine, and did the diagnostics. I got a 16 DTCs, but nothing that looked like it would throw up a check engine light. Actually, it looked pretty much like what I got from a shop I took the car to before the purchase.

Now, on to the Big Trouble Part...

Not having much experience with OBD, I went online to learn a little about clearing DTCs. I found a short procedure that said to insert the reader module, start the engine, wait for the CEL to come on. Then, supposedly, the code that actually caused the CEL would be displayed in the phone app. What actually happened was the the engine would not start. Press the brake ( not the gas), Press the Start button, and no start. Instead, Engine service needed was displayed in the info panel, and after a bit the entertainment panel said "Low battery, the entertainment system will shut down in 3 minutes."

So, there you have it. I'm dead in the water. Is it time to call AAA to flat-bed it to the shop? Any ideas what might have happened? Maybe try re-seating the battery cables on the posts?

HELP!!!

 

Check the tightness of the battery cables on the battery terminals. Also check the tightness of the negative cable where it attaches to body ground. If those are good, put the battery on a charger overnight and see if that helps.

 

I assume that the booster not being hooked up correctly is not the problem considering the beeping noted incorrect hook up. This should not have caused any damage to the battery or the circuit. The part I would be concerned about is starting the car with the OBDII reader plugged in. I know there are readers that can be used with/without the engine being started so I would check your model's instructions and see what it says. Also you may want to start looking at some fuses . Good luck and let us know what you find.

 

Thanks.

Wish I could find a User's manual for the HT200. It's delivered with a single 2-sided sheet that begins with "read these instructions and the users manual," but does not say where to find the latter. The AutelTech.com site shows manuals for only their professional models.


Where are the fuses?

Ed

 

The user manual should be in the HT200 software on your phone. Select the 'me' icon in the bottom right of the main screen and you should find the user manual at the bottom of the list that appears.

 

Unplug the HT200.

Disconnect the positive battery lead.

Touch the positive lead to the negative post. Don't worry, this is not like crossing the streams, which actually turned out not to be so bad. After all and was actually necessary to defeat Zuul.

Anyway...

After touching the positive lead to the negative terminal, hook the positive lead back up and tighten it down.

Start the car.

 

I sent a note to ussupport@autel.com and got a quick reply. Turns out the HT200 is the same as the MaxiAP AP200 at :

https://www.auteltech.com/autelcms/S...ucts/595.jhtml

 

Thanks Sam, I'll do it. Does this reset the various onboard computers?

Had to do some research to find out who Zuul was

 

Sam, you say remove the positive cable and short it to the still connected negative cable. Others in this forum say remove the negative cable and short it to the still connected positive cable. I say it doesn't matter, so why not say remove either cable and short it to the still connected other cable?"

Just curious...

 

Wow, I guess I am getting old. I assumed everyone knew the reference!

 

Sam's instructions worked! What a relief

Now, I'll go back to see if I can use the HT200 to clear the codes and see what comes back.

 

When I got my car I first tried taking off the negative and shorting the cable to the positive terminal. It was too short. But the positive can reach the negative terminal. Electrically there's no difference.

I'm only passing on what I learned from others. :-)

That movie was released on June 8th, 1984. The week I graduated from High school.

THIRTY FIVE YEARS AGO!

In the 1970's I watched Happy Days on TV. It was about the 1950's. That's like us, today, watching a TV show about the late 1990's.

 

Ok, let me give you guys something else to laugh at. I believe I've made yet another blunder. While taking another look at the OBDII trouble codes with HT200, I clicked the Record icon. I was thinking it would write the results to PDF. Now I suspect it was recording the codes repeatedly. It went on and on, and at some point backed out somehow... closed the app perhaps. Afterwards, the car once again won't start, and this time the reset procedure does not fix the problem.

And, I've found this in the User's Manual:

"The Diagnostics application remains open as long as there is an active communication
with the vehicle. You must exit the diagnostics operation to stop all communications with
the vehicle before closing the Diagnostics application.
14
NOTE
Damage to the vehicle electronic control module (ECM) may occur if communication is
disrupted. Make sure the wireless connection is properly connected at all times during
testing. Exit all tests before disconnecting the test connection or powering down the tool."

No idea of where to go from here.

Ed

 

[QUOTE=Reverend Sam;2103689]When I got my car I first tried taking off the negative and shorting the cable to the positive terminal. It was too short. But the positive can reach the negative terminal. Electrically there's no difference.



I'm only passing on what I learned from others. :-)



That movie was released on June 8th, 1984. The week I graduated from High school.

THIRTY FIVE YEARS AGO!


Didn't know what this was all about and I'm in my mid 70"s

 

Got a few on you, JagToes. I'll be entering my 9th decade in a few days. But, you probably suspected that from my posts

 

I would remove the wireless module and throw it in the trash.

 

You may need to go to Dealer to have the ECU re-flashed. So sorry for your headaches...

 

My cry for help yesterday was answered, apparently by the Gods. That is to say, this morning it started!

I think the problem had to do with the Parking Brake state. On one or two of the tries yesterday it told me to Step on the brake pedal and Set the Parking brake, even though the control panel said the latter was set. The switch did nothing. This morning, it started right up with the normal procedure of pressing the brake pedal and pressing the Start button.

Ranchero50, if I followed that logic I'd have to crawl into the dustbin along with the BlueTooth dongle. I do agree though that the HT200 documentation leaves a lot to be desired.

 

Likely the brake pedal had pumped up so hard that you couldn't press it hard enough to activate the switch, and it couldn't start. Has happened before. After sitting overnight the pedal relaxed enough to activate the switch.

 

Press the START button BEFORE you step on the brake pedal. All it takes is a light tap on the pedal, and it'll start right up. I know that Owner's Handbook says otherwise, but I've been pressing the START button first for years with no problems.