So, this idea would be a separate system that could use the speakers and bypass the infotainment system with an A/B switch for when Infotainment necessities are used. Interesting idea. Could be a single DIN hidden in the glove box, or even a DSP that accepts a direct in, preferably digitally. So, the separation would occur back where the speakers come out of the amp, I guess. A gets you Infotainment, B gets you Digital In. Let me think on it. I appreciate the suggestion!

 

oh **** so you're serious!

I'd imagine getting to all of those controls on the XK won't be as easy as a 1968 anything

Good luck though! Looking forward to reading the build thread you will be creating

 

This probably wouldn't be that hard. New input interface/preamp/DSP, new amp, tap into speakers thru a switch. Hell, if you can do without the center speaker in the new setup, leave it connected to the original system full time to get the nav voice, radio, etc.... and ditch the switch....

 

My research has taken me down quite a few rabbit holes. Just putting these hare as food for thought. While none are the solution, they may be be parts of it.

The G37 community figured out how to interface with the connection between the touch screen and the stereo, using it as an aux-in to a Nexus tablet.


Using an Audiocontrol amp and RTA to get a full range signal out of the factory head unit:


This is in a Mercedes, but it also has a footwell mounted factory sub. Instead of finding a woofer to fit the enclosure they mount a new woofer inverted. Not sure how this would impact foot space.

 

In the words of the Virgin Mary, come again!

This is really spooky, I wrote nearly the same thing and was just about to post it.

Exactly Richard!! its all about choosing the right compromise. Make that center speaker the navigation speaker.
Of course if you are still using the factory navigation in the XK you have even bigger problems. Namely you still dont know where you are going....

Hang on a minute...there is a video...

 

Is there a way to source the plug the amp uses to connect to the speakers? So you don't have to hack the factory wires?

I suppose at this point you could just run all new speaker wires anyway.

 

bahaha.

Although I will never do ANY of this, it's fun watching this thread. Interesting stuff.

 

No, no,

Lets take it from the top.

See this amp below (it will remain unnamed on purpose) it has everything you need to get fabulous audiophile sound. It fits in the palm of your hand. 300w per channel.
Its bluetooth 5.0, so. Your phone becomes the cd player, radio, dac and preamp, and its many times better sonics than the stock headunit.



This is just showing you the simplest solution with just 2 channels. It sits right where your factory amp is now.
You can get more channels, in fact, many 4/8 channel amps are available.
And you can get the bluetooth 5.0 receiver separate. (this is your star player)

 

Yup I agree that's the easiest. What I would like is, whenever I need to interface with factory wiring (speaker leads, whatever) I use factory style plugs and don't have to cut things (which I'm not above doing, but would rather not).

For a source unit I think a small android tablet or even phone would fit down by the ash tray, leaving the stock screen in place. This would allow for android auto AND Apple Carplay (its so dumb that you can't run CarPlay on an iphone) Then you just need a couple amps (or a big multi-channel) and you're off to the races.

 

This is the amp you need.

https://www.pasmag.com/technology/te...plifier-review

 

Wow... new life to an old thread! Like some of these ideas! I will investigate when I have time to dive deep. I'm not wild about Bluetooth as the option though if it is 5.0 that might mitigate it. There of course are also problems with a 3.5mm plug intro. I actually have a couple of portable DACS that have a ESS 9018 chip, so if I could deliver the sound relatively noise free, they would make a terrific dac!

 

Q&C is this the amp you were telling me about in PM about a month ago?

 

That is a bad *** amp.

This Sony is much less expensive and has a phone app. I've never looked into DSP amps before.

https://www.sony.com/electronics/car...iers/xm-gs6dsp

 

Embrace bluetooth 5.0

You have to look at the equation holistically. If we make gains of 20 and 60 percent elsewhere in the chain, do we care if we lose 10% to non-hardwired connection.
Also its car audio, it will never be great. You are sitting to one side of the stage and there is a lot of ambient noise. Non to mention, you are really suppose to focus somewhat on the driving.

 

Yes that Sony will sound very good.
Class D topology has come so far that it is outperforming Class A, course no one makes a Class A for cars.

 

Yes. I was really reluctant to post it publicly so I did it conservatively.

 

I use something like this as the "head unit" in the Mustang. Sure you can stream directly to those amps but this would give you controls so you aren't tapping at your phone all the time.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-EpUTgk...MBT-CRXv2.html

 

It would be a 3x downgrade.

There are many factors that have to be considered and were considered by the folks who selected the factory drivers.
This is a good example. The driver you posted is 80db efficient. VS 89db of the stock.
It means that it will reduce your amplifier power by 3x. Or a 100w amp becomes 30watts
And it only plays down to 70hz. (not good) So in reallity 100hz, i.e not even a good midrange let alone subwoofer.

 

I have two of these sitting on my shelf right now. They look to match the stock woofer better, but are DVC 4 ohm.

https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-p...ofer--267-7450

 

The link took me to a Bluetooth Receiver/preamp. I'd like to look at the device you are referencing that has amp output. Can you either name it, or send me the info via PM?