Hello, i have a problem with a XK 3.5 from year 2009. When i open the car with the remote sometimes the back and fromt parklights goes on and when i push the startbuttom he does nothing, no cranck. I even can not turn out the lights. I open the trunk and cut off the minus of the battery for e few minutes. Afterwords somtimes it has reset and i can start normal. I put in a new battery (good one, bosch silverline) and read also the fault memory with a hella gutman computer. Faultcodes i get are U3000, B1009, B108A startbuttom, B1026, U0155 Can-bus combi intrument. someone can give me a direction where i can look...
Greetings from Belgium.

 

Your problem is almost certainly the battery or its connections - even though the battery is new, it may not be fully charged (in fact, new batteries are almost NEVER fully charged). You have the symptoms of a failing battery unable to put out full voltage. The first thing to do is to charge the battery fully, and to make sure that all connections are secure.

 

Battery brand new... 100% charged. Checked batteryconnection and also cleaned the mass point on the car. Still the same problem 1 of 10 times i open the car the lights still goes on and not possible to start.

 

Some of those codes have a 2 digit extension (Example: U3000-81, U3000-55). Your scanner may not be able to pick them up. I would clear all the codes you can and see which ones come back.

In the meantime, ensure you are depressing the brake pedal fully, and hold the start button for more than 1 second when starting the car.

Additionally, I would download the repair manual so you can start looking up those codes. It sounds like a module or CAN bus issue.

I found out last night that by disconnecting and removing the instrument cluster, the daytime running lights will stay on. They go off when I re-connect the instrument cluster. Maybe you can check those connections.

 

Press the START button before you put your foot on the brake pedal. It'll start quicker, with only a tap of the brake pedal.

Yes, I know that the Owner's Handbook says the opposite - press the brake pedal first - but trust me it works. Inadvertently stepping on the brake pedal repeatedly ("pumping" the brakes) makes it much harder to start, and you have to really stand on the brake pedal.

Try resetting your car's electrical system. Remove both positive (+) and negative (-) cables and touch the clamp ends together for a minute to discharge the capacitors. Before putting the cables back on, connect a digital voltmeter to the battery posts and measure the voltage. If it's below 12.5 vdc, it's weak and you need to charge it overnight. You'll probably also need to reset the windows. For details, see:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...adings-113258/

 

Correct, i removed the cluster and when i swiched off the cables the day running lights begun to shine. I put some contactclaener on the connectors, otherwise i think i have to put in a new cluster. I saw on the electric wiringplan that a lot of things to start goes over the cluster. I will see...thanks!

 

Hi Bruno,

I have a 2006 XK and it has developed exactly the same fault as you describe. It is intermittent but when I sometimes unlock the car and try and start it, absolutely nothing. The dashboard is completely blank apart for the Jaguar display on centre console and the engine will not crank over, but all the exterior lights come on and I can't turn them off.
A hard reset by taking off the negative battery cable for longer than 15 minutes then means it will start, until the next time!
Did you resolve your issue in the end and what was the problem?

Cheers,

Ian

 

Try this: press the START button before you put your foot on the brake pedal.

If you inadvertently press the brake pedal repeatedly ("pump the brakes") when you get in the car, that will cause the pedal to rise and get very hard to press down. You'll have to stand on the pedal with both feet and all your strength to press the pedal far enough to make contact with the switch to get the car to start. Ask me how I know. Search this Forum for the answer in my post from around 10 years ago.

Yes, I know that the Owner's Handbook says to press the brake pedal first. But trust me, it works to press the start button first. All you need is a tap on the brake pedal.

If that doesn't work, you may have a weak battery or a bad ground. Check the battery terminals for any corrosion and make sure they're tight. Brand new batteries often are not fully charged as they can sit on the retailer's shelf for months discharging.

You may also need to get your alternator checked, as it might not be charging your battery.

Good luck!

 

Many thanks and I will certainly try that and get the alternator checked

 

This fault is now fairly well documented now seems to be getting more common. If you open the car standing right next to it usually the car will open and you will have ignition, however if you open the car from a distance the car will open but the ignition will be inhibited and the sidelights will come on. There is nothing you can do to get the sidelights off or get the ignition on without removing the negative lead and leaving the modules to fully power down for 15 mins. It is important that the key is in the car when the negative lead is reattached and if the sidelights are off when attached the ignition circuit will work and the car will start. The problem is 100% the instrument cluster and when I changed the cluster on my car the fault disappeared and has not reoccured since. You need to remove your cluster which is very easy and record the number on the sticker attached to the cluster which will be something like 7W83-10849, It is essential you get a cluster with the exact same number. The new cluster will need coding with SDD which is fairly straightforward and the key and immobiliser details transferred to the new cluster I had problems updating the mileage which I am still trying to sort.
Best of Luck getting it sorted.

 

Sorry meant to add these links but couldn't do it.
search:- New XKR dead in the water. and. Taking some brave pills and changing this cluster. Which will show you my 'journey' in getting this sorted.

 

Many thanks, this is really helpful. I have the car booked into my local Indy in a week or so’s time so hopefully they can fix the cluster.

 

Best of luck but I don't think the cluster can be fixed. My indie hadn't heard of the fault and it took a lot of research to nail it down. If you Pm me I can give you some more background and a couple of indies who can reprogram the New Cluster, though be aware new clusters for the XK are quite expensive. It would be interesting to see if a cluster from an XF would fit as they are identical and a fraction of the price, though the part numbers don't match. Would also be interested to know if opening the car standing next to it (ie within range of the smart key) ensures the car works every time and opening it from a distance causes it to fail every time, it did for me.

 

Replace the fuses in the rear seat fuse box.Mine start doing it when my whole fuse box went bad and was going into a fail safe mode and thinks you trying to steal your own car.So i replaced the fuse box and no issue since.But yours might not need all that and replacing the fuses could be all it needs.

 

Sadly, we're likely to see more module failures as these age out, first we've seen TSD units fail, now clusters. If the key module/cluster's failing, it won't matter how many fuses get changed, the car will never start correctly. Aside from the PCM & BCM, it's the next most critical component to run the car.

 

It would be good to see the actual complete codes/ This being said, if there are so many codes that it just does not make sense; typically the battery is replaced, a reset implemented, then a second read of the codes performed.
Or... keep throwing the dice...

 

Hi,
Thanks and my car is booked in to my Indie next week and I have told them about a possible cluster problem so I will see what they say in the first instance. I have seen on line that there are some companies that can repair your existing cluster and offer a lifetime warranty on the work so that might also be an option!
My car has worked ok over the weekend and I have ensured that I stood right next to it when opening with the remote but I cant understand why opening from a distance would cause the problem...did you ever get to the bottom of that?

 

Thanks and I am hoping that my local indie garage can get to the bottom of this next week.....I will keep you posted!

 

I believe its something to do with the ignition inhibitor system. as I understand it the smart key sends out 2 codes, one to unlock the car and one to verify they key data and unlock the ignition. For some reason if you unlock the car out of range of the second signal the car bombs out and permanently inhibits the ignition by going into 'safe mode' and illuminating the sidelights for safety. I've got SDD but not very competent at using it but whilst poking around the instrument cluster settings I came across this message which very accurately describes the fault condition. I found if I unlocked the car with the key nearly touching the window all was fine but if i moved out of range of the smartkey and unlocked it then the fault occurred 100%. I replaced the key fob batteries and even got a new key to no avail. New cluster and the car is great again, the centre display is far clearer and the warning chimes much nicer, the old cluster chimes sounded like the speaker was damaged somehow.

 

@Spitjag this helps, but not completely for me to understand. SDD indicates the diagnostic tool will automatically test and detect the situation. OK, so the diagnostic tool is SDD. What happened when you selected Next? Did you have the same codes as the OP? Your post reads like a swapped parts until fixed scenario (please don't take that as an insult as I don't mean it to be) but for future readers of this, trying to understand the sequence of events and corroborate the same codes were showing in your case as the OP. Thank you:-) 😊
Also, I'm guessing we've all locked and relocked while walking away from our cars. I don't think that would permanently brick the instrument cluster as this would be a common mishap. So curious.