Hello everyone,

Until now my display was always on. Using the button below on the left you can switch the display to 1 dark 2 symbol/clock 3 functions.

Lately it always goes off after about 3 to 5 minutes and goes dark. I can then continue to control the radiochannels or temperature, but I just don't see it.

If I press the bottom left button 3 times it is there again.

Does anyone have an idea? Display defective? The XF from that time had the same display.

Since I've had the car for 10 years, I'm also familiar with the electronics that always whiz around, causing phenomena to occur that then disappear again.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Christian

 

I've had the same problem on my 2010, is your bluetooth phone feature working? I'd bet money that it is not.

When your bluetooth module goes out it prevent your infotainment screen from working properly, the easy fix is
go into the trunk remove the liner covering the battery, and disconnect the bluetooth modules power.

The other thing that can cause this is a bad alternator/battery, but i'd bet its the bluetooth module.

 

Side note: if you are using a flash drive in your USB port, this can jam things up too.

 

AND certain OBD2 dongles cause a problem on some cars.

 

Thanks for the quick answers!

I just checked the Bluetooth connection. The car connects to the cell phone and I can receive and answer calls in the car. But maybe there is a loose connection when I drive. So I would disconnect the module and take it for a test drive. Which of the 3 cables (1,2,3) should I remove?
When I'm not driving the car, I have a Ctek connected, so the battery should always be full enough. Until recently, I always had a USB stick inserted, to clean the car, which is currently removed.
I currently don't have a dongle on the OBD. That was once, but 2-3 years ago.

Yet another question. In the picture I have a question mark on a very thin positive cable that has a very poor connection. It's white and I've been wanting to reconnect it for some time. Where does this lead? What is it for since it is connected to the battery separately?
Maybe that is the cause?
So I would first replace the white cable and then deactivate the BT module.
Thank you very much and best regards
Christian

 

It's #3,

The phone may work but when the display goes off the
Phone and Bluetooth will stop working.

the wire from the battery is a factory connector
prior to vehicle delivery and not a concern.

 

Thanks in advance for the current tips. I have time next week to check whether the BT connection also breaks down when the screen fails.
If that's the case, I'll install another BT module. I read that it doesn't need to be trained.
I currently have the 9W83-10D893-AB
Is the "latest", newest one the 9W83-10F845-AA?
Then I would get it.
If it worked, I'll report back.
Best regards
Christian

 

Regarding:
Yet another question. In the picture I have a question mark on a very thin positive cable that has a very poor connection. It's white and I've been wanting to reconnect it for some time. Where does this lead? What is it for since it is connected to the battery separately?
I'm thinking:
Is that the wire that connects to the BMS module on the negative battery terminal? If so, I believe that if disconnected the BMS doesn't 'manage the battery' and the smart alternator charging voltage defaults to 13.5v.
Sitting in the pub after a few pints so please excuse if I'm completely wrong

 

Either one will work

 

Hello everyone,

now I had time to take a test drive today. The vehicle battery was fully charged with the Ctek.
Nothing happened for over half an hour. 100m from my garage the screen went dark. I immediately checked the Bluetooth connection with the phone. It was there.
Then I got out and disconnected the large connector on the BT module. The screen appeared to be completely deactivated and the radio no longer worked. I plugged the large connector back into the module and everything worked. Now the screen went dark at shorter intervals. About every 5 to 8 minutes.
I turned off the car and measured the voltage on the battery with a multimeter. 12.39 volts. When the engine is on (idling), the multimeter shows
13.00 volts.
I'm currently recharging with the Ctek and then, tomorrow, measuring the voltage again without ignition, at idle and at 4000 rpm.
Maybe it's not the BT module at all, maybe the alternator charging voltage is too low.
Christian

 

It's your battery and you'll want to replace it. Anything under 12.6 volts resting needs to be replaced. The fact that you put 100 miles on it confirms.

 

I'm also afraid it might be the battery, but I don't understand why.
The very first battery after delivery worked without any problems for almost 10 years. It wasn't a problem not to move the car for 5 months in the winter without disconnecting the battery. I then replaced the battery with a Varta AGM. The car couldn't cope with this and showed a variety of "symptoms". With a normal Varta everything worked, but it drained when the car wasn't driven for more than 2 months. So now I always charge them with the Ctek and disconnect them for 5 months in the winter. I now have a new “original Jaguar” battery again. But it doesn't seem to be any better, just a lot more expensive. Ultimately, I don't understand why the first battery worked for almost 10 years and now two batteries have failed in four years. I had a rest test done in the workshop to see whether the car really falls asleep when it's parked. This test was positive. That's why I really don't understand the battery behavior.

 

There's a whole section on quiescent battery drain in the workshop manual.

 

I would suggest further checking the alternator charge voltage before condemning your battery as it is very possible the BMS (battery management system) has been conducting it's calibration cycle where it allows partial battery discharge.
I have a voltmeter plugged into the cigarette lighter and noticed voltages as low as 12.4 whilst the engine is running. It will sometimes do this after I have charged the battery and particularly after a battery disconnect such as if the battery is changed.
The discharge cycle can last an hour or two. When the alternator is charging at full rate the vehicle voltage I see is 14.5 to 15.1. Engine speed does not effect the voltage, revving at 4000 would be pointless.
The BMS is designed to vary the charging voltage depending on engine load, for instance when slowing it charges at a higher rate and you would observe an increase in vehicle voltage.
The battery voltage at rest can be 13 immediately after shutting down the engine. This should settle to something in the range of 12.4 to 12.6 over several hours at rest.
All this makes it difficult to judge the actual health of the battery with out a professional tester.

 

testing my 'anigif', for future use!





wj

 

I'm honoured...

 

Why 12.6 volts . If it's a conventional lead acid wet cell battery, each cell has a maximum output of 2.1 volts , unloaded and fully charged. They generally operate at around 2 volts each hence we call it a 12v battery . Chargers and the alternator flood the cells and they overflow a little, hence you can see 12.6 poss 12.7 on a meter for a short time . A good fully charged 12v wet lead acid battery will be 12.4/12.5 volts . You do not need to replace a lead battery if it shows less than 12.6.

 

Without debating the health of lead acid batteries at less than 12.6 volts, and because this forum is filled with that same debate, I will say on the XK, anything less than 12.6 is a fail point. Of course load is also a factor. Surely a long and worthy debate, on one of the many other threads addressing this. I don't want to sidetrack this one though as I'm hoping to hear back from the OP. Regardless of any debate points, the OP ran 100 miles than immediately checked his voltage. He needs a new battery. Cheers

 

I haven't had time yet.
Tomorrow I will create precise measurements again, fully charged with Cetek, idling, before a trip, after a trip,...
Then we'll see.

 

Open voltage is not a definitive guide. The battery I took out of my car months ago, which has been sitting on the bench since, was last on the maintainer about 10 days ago. I've just checked its voltage, which reads 12.79. Some would say this is a good battery. I know it isn't.