Final photos of everything fitted and tuned. I cannot stress enough how great it sounds.

 

The "best" may very well be subjective, but I am partial to JL audio. Great sounding subs. Another great SQ sub in my opinion would be the Alpine Type R. I also left my system factory, but I am considering changing out the door speakers. But to answer your question you would need to but a line out converter to tap into your factory subwoofer signal. You could tap into any signal, but I think this is the best signal to tap into so that you could still control the subwoofer level of output on the factory radio in "settings". I believe you know where the factory amp/sub is. Just tap into that. Any other questions feel free to ask and I'm sure others here also have info to chime in and help you.

Eric

 

Yes, I used the line out converter.

 

Very nice audio work! One could put in the 10w6s and use the JL Audio supplied grille for protection. I have one in my xk8...two would be insane!

If you ever do a '07-up convertible, please update your thread.

My lonely 10w6 below...

 

Sublyminal To answer your question, I believe you know where the factory amp/sub, my answer is i havent a clue not a clue of how to wire it up to factory radio, how stupid am i. If i had step by step and what needed no problem. Pity yur so far away wuld pay for unit like this if you couls supply.
Have to say the job you have done is first class ,real professional.

 

Thanks for the compliments. No worries, I can walk you through the process whenever you are ready. Easy breezy. The factory sub/amp is below the passenger side carpet where the feet of the passenger would rest. Pull the carpet back and you will see it. There are about 3 bolts at the top and about 4 at the bottom that removes the aluminum plate that covers the speaker/amp combo. Then from there you would know what to do I think to remove it. You may not have to remove it depending on the size of your hands if you can get in there. Basically there are a few harnesses to the OEM amp. Unplug the one that runs the sub completely. You do not want or need the interference from it once you add the new equipment. The line out converter has wires on one end that you tap into the sub wires with. The other end has amp jack inputs where the RCAs from the amplifier would connect. My aftermarket amp is in the trunk underneath the panel as I wanted a clean look, but there are a few options for the amplifier location. The rear seat must come out on at least one side to run the wires neatly. PM me for more info as I do not want to clog the thread with long replies. I can get you any of the equipment you need of show you what all you need so that you can get it yourself.

Here's an example of what you'll need to use once you get to the factory amp.

 

That's some creativity right there. Which amp are you using on that W6?

 

thanks, for the time taken to get back to mem you can send me details in a PM about items and steps when suits you. How much did it cost you from start to finish.

 

No problem I will PM you the full step by step. As far as cost of course it would be cheaper to use one sub if you build a custom box as the materials used would be half as much.

 

Thanks again Sublyminal , saw this sub and amp on ebay, would like to fit something like this as it would look good at night too. How to go about it is another thing.
2 i look at are, what sub and amp would you recommend.
CAR AUDIO HIFI SYSTEM SUBWOOFER AMPLIFIER AMP 4000W SET TWIN BASS SPEAKER LIGHT | eBay

CAR SOUND SYSTEM SET 2 CHANNEL AMPLIFIER SUBWOOFER SUB AMP 1400W LED FX + WIRING | eBay

 

I am so jealous. I wish I could do that type of work. The fit & finish is perfect.

 

So do you just turn up the volume and the rear hatch opens up. LOL

Nice work.

 

so you have no issues with volume matching or SQ issues at all? Not saying you dont know what you are doing because you obviously do, very top notch work. I just have no faith in LOC's, and obviously while much more expensive it seems like an MS8 or similar processor would be a much better choice.

 

Yea, the processor may very well be a better choice. I might try one out later just to see if there is much difference and get back with you guys on the results. However, I must say that I do not have any issues with SQ or volume control issues. I could adjust the amp tuning it for more output which may then cause issues matching volume because the system's bass is VERY capable etc, but at the level I have tuned to I did so to match everything. I spent a day doing that alone. I also have an LOC in my Range Rover with a stereo that has twice the wattage of the XK and I also have no issues with that one. I have had that system in that particular vehicle for three plus years.

 

You did a great job looks great! Fantastic work!

 

Nicely done. +1 for JL subs; I had one in my prior setup and loved it. And +1 for taking the time to tune the system/sub - it makes a big difference, as you well know. JBM07XKR

 

Hi all, if one of you could pm me the instructions to fit an amp to my car I would appreciate it, I have a spare kicker amp in the garage that has high end/speaker inputs, I would like to add this to run the speakers which I plan upgrade as well as another to run a 8" sub in the boot. I have a 2006 xkr.
I have just joined by the way

Thanks

Rob

 

Great pro install and looks great

 

Sublyminal, do you still have those molds? If so, how much for a set that fits 10's? I'm guessing 12's wont fit?


Thanks brother!

 

Those are hot if u still have them I'm interested in the build