Front Brakes on 2001 XKR
#23
#25
Yeah... make sure you replace those rotors, too. They looked pretty worn.
Actually, $105 for labor isn't bad for the brakes. I tried to change the brakes on my wife's Mazda, and she had a lip around the outer edge of the rotor similar to yours, but not quite as bad. I had a heluva time getting the calipers off. I got one done, but I made her take it to the shop for the second one.
Actually, $105 for labor isn't bad for the brakes. I tried to change the brakes on my wife's Mazda, and she had a lip around the outer edge of the rotor similar to yours, but not quite as bad. I had a heluva time getting the calipers off. I got one done, but I made her take it to the shop for the second one.
#27
Put a plastic tube on the bleeder screw, the other end into a container to catch the fluid. Then open up the bleeder screw while pulling the sliding caliper against the rotor to depress the piston and push some fluid out, enough so that the pads clear the lip on the rotor. Close the bleeder.
After the new brakes are in, and pumped a few times, check the fluid level of course.
Dan
#29
Before raising the car or removing the wheels, loosen all the lug nuts so they are just finger snug. Drive a few feet forward and hit the brakes. Then drive a few feet back and hit the brakes.
Then go ahead with the brake job. The rotors won't be stuck on the hub.
Dan
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Sir Alex of Yotto (05-28-2016)
#31
Exactly, that's what I was alluding to when I said "safest". The fluid that came out of mine looked pretty bad (I did a flush not long after). I imagine it's pretty risky to push that goo backwards into the abs pump. Not cheap that.
Dan
#33
Before raising the car or removing the wheels, loosen all the lug nuts so they are just finger snug. Drive a few feet forward and hit the brakes. Then drive a few feet back and hit the brakes.
Then go ahead with the brake job. The rotors won't be stuck on the hub.
Dan
Then go ahead with the brake job. The rotors won't be stuck on the hub.
Dan
#34
The rotors are sandwiched between the hub and the wheel ... so yes they are held in by the lug nuts ... and rust (except in Texas :-), which is why the procedure I posted to break them free works.
Dan
#36
Beauregard, thanks again for your assistance! This is good to know.
I questioned them on it when they quoted the $1700 I mentioned they didn't look fancy like other Brembo brakes I had seen and he said I definitely had the dual piston Brembo brakes... hmmm...
Yep, I agree. Definitely need pads and rotors.
Thanks Dan for pointing out something identifying that I can question the dealer on. I really appreciate the input. This may sound like a stupid question but how would I go about matching the pads on the rear?
Hey Matt, I agree on the rotors and while it would be cool to have the Brembo brakes I have to admit that frankly it's a relief I don't and I have options! Thanks for the feedback and it looks like you got promoted around here since I visited last. Nice work.
Thank you all you've been extremely helpful, I'm getting all teary-eyed :-)
I questioned them on it when they quoted the $1700 I mentioned they didn't look fancy like other Brembo brakes I had seen and he said I definitely had the dual piston Brembo brakes... hmmm...
Yep, I agree. Definitely need pads and rotors.
Thanks Dan for pointing out something identifying that I can question the dealer on. I really appreciate the input. This may sound like a stupid question but how would I go about matching the pads on the rear?
Hey Matt, I agree on the rotors and while it would be cool to have the Brembo brakes I have to admit that frankly it's a relief I don't and I have options! Thanks for the feedback and it looks like you got promoted around here since I visited last. Nice work.
Thank you all you've been extremely helpful, I'm getting all teary-eyed :-)
The pads would be matched when the same brand and type of pad is on the front and rear. Different pad formulations have different friction characteristics. With the same pad brand these characteristics are "balanced" front and rear.
#37
I don't know if it's fixed yet but special thanks go to Gus for pointing out this fine tutorial by Dan Jensen:
http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap...?id=1230845126
Here's what I've done thus far:
Successfully removed the control unit
Control Unit Opened
Sure enough, broken solder joints
Repaired solder joints - I hope
Getting ready to apply RTV and close up unit
Now I'm just waiting for the RTV to cure before I put it back into my car.
Given that I did have broken solder joints I'm relatively confident this will fix my ABS/Traction Control/Stability Control Unavailable issue. I have my fingers crossed!
http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap...?id=1230845126
Here's what I've done thus far:
Successfully removed the control unit
Control Unit Opened
Sure enough, broken solder joints
Repaired solder joints - I hope
Getting ready to apply RTV and close up unit
Now I'm just waiting for the RTV to cure before I put it back into my car.
Given that I did have broken solder joints I'm relatively confident this will fix my ABS/Traction Control/Stability Control Unavailable issue. I have my fingers crossed!
#38
#40
Even after I got the caliper completely off I couldn't get the piston to go back into the caliper. I had the bleeder screw wide open, the brake line was completely off of the caliper, and with a C-clamp pushing on the piston it wouldn't move back into the caliper. I finally got it to go back in by HAMMERING on it. It would move a tenth of a millimeter with each hammer blow. It was almost like there was a check-valve in the caliper that prevented it from allowing the piston back in.
They can also get scored to the cylinder wall leaving a ridge and that will sometimes prevent them from being pushed back too, but that was usually with older vehicles.