My Emergency brake was not working .. I Pulled it up after I did the abs install , the red light came on the dash and did not go off when I put the handle back down. I will be looking at that cable today also .. that in it self might have something to do with it also .. I will be back tracking and checking connections today .. I really appreciate all the help

 

Are you sure you are releasing it properly? To release:

Lift it until there is significant tension, then press the button WHILE pulling up at the same time. Now lower the brake while keeping the button depressed.

 

Yes Steve.. I pulled brake up with button pushed, and let it down .. no tention on brake cable when let back down .. if you pull it again .. you can hear it click .. that brake never locks the rear wheels since I got the car. I will be taking the rear wheels off today and checking brake shoes . cable. ect..

I have found that when I pull the harness off the abs and start the car .. it dosnt change the error messages on the instrument cluster.. same same..

"improper part fitted" and the check engine light .. abs light .. and a red emergency brake light stays lit on the speedometer (below it ) this also is true if the abs is plugged in .. I am sure when I soldered it or took it apart I trashed some thing.

have to beed the lines today also.. trying to make a self bleeder out of a jar and tube since I am doing this alone.

New abs control module is on the way .. and I have to check to see if pump is actually good or not .

Will keep you posted .. thanks

 

Definitely check to make sure the latch did not break at the handbrake, I've seen a couple pictures of that happening...though rare. The cable from the handbrake goes back to a 'Y' type of splitter connection, and another cable splits the two rear wheels.

If you aren't familiar with the rear brake shoes for the e-brake, I did a thread awhile back with lots of pics...just search for some keywords like emergency, shoes, and a thread started by me in the advanced search.

 

Check the fuse for the ABS module.

On the E-brake. I thought mine was broken on my first XK8 as well. After many attempts at releasing it I finally gave up assuming it was broken. A week or so later I tried to demonstrate how it was broken to a friend of mine... and it released as I was showing him how it didn't release. So keep trying it, maybe they tend to get stuck if they haven't been used for a while...

 

Every thing is now working ,, all warning lights are off .. Hallaluyahhhh .. Keeping my fingers crossed..

 

Old post, I know, but I just gotta say that SAAB 900, early 80's, have those screw pistons on the front brakes as well

@xk8florida, glad to see it works again

 

So the new module fixed it? Or was there another problem?

 

Hi Andy. the original problem was abs light on engine light on , Cleaned all 4 wheel sensors, tried to do the soldering technique with the abs module.. and after I did that .. the emergency brake light came on , the speedometer quit working, cruise control did not work . got error messages of incorrect part fitted.. orederd a new(used) abs control module off of ebay. took old one back out. put new in , with battery disconnected of course.. hooked back up and had same thing.. took it for a drive.. parked it for 20 min.. with key off.. came back .. started it up and the abs light was off.. hooked up obII and pulled codes ..

P0171(power train cam system to lean bank 1),
P0174 (same same bank 2),
P1637(cam link engine control module/abs control circuit failure/network malfunction),
C1095 (anti lock hydrolic pump motor circuit failure),
U1260(instrument cluster control module scp j1850 single centered circuit failure),
P1799 Tranny cam transmission control module / abs control module circuit failure) .. whewwww..


cleared the codes.. turned car off .. turned it back on and it has been two lovly glorious days now that I have no warning lights or error messages at all .
Every thing works.. never has ran so good. even the lag in the engine is now gone, and I can see where these things stock are 14sec 1/4 mile cars at 4200lbs. besides the fact that I beat jag dealer out of about 4 thousand dollars worth of estimates and repair.. thanks to Jaguar forms Information ..


next I have to replace speakers in the rear .. and I am done .. for now. The great thing about the xk8 is .. it can be in my drive way parked and I could just walk around it looking at all angles of it and lines.. and get great enjoyment out of it with out even starting the engine.. talk about great fuel economy ..

Thanks again to gus, h20boy, reverend sam, whitexk, all the people on this site.. you guys are awsome.

 

I just did this solder repair to my abs module. Just want to mention to be extra careful with the multipin connector. The pins can bend quite easily if the connector is not aligned properly. I bent some and got even more errors including a "gearbox fault". This scared me but all errors were gone once I straightened out the pins and got the connect attached correctly.

 

I have the asc/traction not available on constantly on my 2000 xjr,i have tried a good second hand replacement module which had the same part number but once fitted i started it up and the message was still there and also it said wrong part fitted,can anyone please help.Thanks.

 

First, thanks to everyone who posted info and photos, very helpful. Is there anything I should try first before this? My lights are on everytime I drive the car. Also I tried turning the switch for track to off, to see if that mattered, it didn't. I have to smog my car, so I need to get that light off, and I don't want to pay 2 grand to do it! Has anyone just cleaned the speed sensors and got a fix? Seems like those solder joints is the repeating failure point. thanks in advance for any ideas, or help!

 

I know this is an old thread, but I'm a new member and just going through the boards. I worked in the auto industry for 30 years doing brake R&D so I'd just like to throw a few things in this thread for others who may be referencing this in the future. From what I've been reading over the last few days there are really good, knowledgeable enthusiasts here (compared to some boards) and I'm not meaning to step on anyone's toes.

Calipers not only have issues with corrosion but the piston O-Ring seals (actually tangential) suffer from heat-aging and loose some of their elasticity, which is responsible for seal rollback and keeping the pads away from the rotor. When you're pushing back a caliper it should take a little more then strong thumb pressure to push a piston back. If you have to hammer it back (rear parking ball and ramp excluded) you've got a problem.

Never clamp a brake hose. There are a least three layers to a brake hose and clamping can cause the inner layer to tear, resulting in a interior bubble that can act like a check valve, preventing fluid flow in either apply or release depending upon the delamination.

The friction material industry is so competitive that with few exceptions price is indicative of quality. Do not skimp.

As far as rotors, same about price but I would caution about rotors with venting holes. Even properly done they are prone to develop stress cracks. Slots less so, but I always put plain faced rotors on my vehicles.

There are a lot of electronics within the late 90's to mid 2000 out of the FoMoCo umbrella that seem to have solder joint issues, most likely due to a learning curve of lead free solder by the suppliers. In the module repair in this thread and the pictorial (good pictorial) it talks about using RTV as a sealer. That's good, but it has to be the right RTV.

Standard RTV releases acetic acid during cure, the strong smell. Not good for electronics. Google RTV acetic acid and you'll find multiple references. Dow Corning 738 or 748 are two good examples of silicones made for electronics that won't cause issues down the road. If you can't find them local, McMaster.com can be a source for a tube.

 

Agreed ^^

Ford wasn't/isn't the only OEM to suffer broken solder joints in the ABS ECM. I've repaired many of the same on other makes over the years. High current draw items attached directly to a pc board is never a good idea, off-board relays should be employed and they know it. It's strictly the save-a-penny business model of mass production. They figure the odds of cost to build vs. cost to warranty with safety/responsibility only considered as liability exposure. Basically it comes down to "Do we use the plastic tensioners or give up lobster for lunch in the executive lunch room twice each week and use the metal ones instead?"

[\soapbox OFF] ;-)

 

Going to do this one this week. Cleaned the sensors today and no luck. Resistance at all four corners looks good. So looks like it's probably the solder.

But looking at the process, I was just wondering if there would any mileage in drilling or cutting a small hole or two in the module to allow access for the soldering rather than cracking the whole case open. Of course, opening the whole case allows you to inspect the whole circuit board but small holes would allow for easy reassembly (maybe just requiring some waterproof tape?)

 

Got it done. No more warning Not even a check engine light which is odd because I got one when I disconnected the module to measure the resistances. Oh well.

Went for the full case open. It wasn't that much more work. I was hoping to get it out without disconnecting the brake lines but didn't realize there were solenoid-type things that would make that impossible. Unfortunately, it started raining so the car's sitting out there needing the brakes bled. From the feel of it, I could get away with them in an emergency but I'll just wait for now.

Love getting help from these sites. I'll have to drop a donation to the site (it isn't run by vertical scope, right?). Maybe they could afford to upgrade the speed a little (hint-hint)

 

You guys ROCK. This whole site ROCKS. I got the ABS TRAC yellow light too. After cleaning and ohming the sensors, I pulled the module, drilled the hole, re-soldered the lugs, and life is good. I used a tooth pick to put a tiny bead of RTV around the hole and the cutout. I used metal roofing tape to hold the cutout in place while it dried.
Am I the only one who had trouble unhooking the wiring harness? I kept looking for snaps in the usual places, but it's not like that. The release mech doesn't look like one. You just pull up on a handle. How cool is that. But it's all good now. Thanks for saving me from the dealer, again.

 

So after having my mechanic buddy do my front pads and rotors I still had my ABS/ASC not available light on. Well I had him pull the ABS module and sure enough one of the pins needed to be soldered which he did then buttoned it up and away he went. I didnt check the car till the next day and sure enough everything is flashing up now (I did undo the battery, waited 4 hours to hook it up again) but still have wrong part fitted, ABS, ASC no avail, Yellow and Red light, restricted performance and all.

Im waiting on him to come over and re bleed everything and check all the connections. I sure hope this will fix it as I miss driving my car the last 2 weeks. Thanks all for the info that us commoners can use to keep from spending stupid money at a Jag dealer.

 

I hope you didn't get water where it shouldn't be John. This is the only time I got the dreaded restricted performance warning. The water comes thru the hood or bonnet louvers on XKR's when it is parked in the rain, (which BTW never happens at my house). Actually moving in the rain doesn't affect it on mine.
I haven't located the exact source of my water problem yet, but it seemed to improve a lot after I coated everything in the engine bay with Armorall. A silicone based wipe and shine. Next I will remove the coil covers and the coils to give all that under there a good wiping and soaking with this stuff. This repels water and will protect your wiring better than anything else I have tried. WD40 will remove water, but it does nothing for the insulation and may cause some deterioration in plastics due to it's petroleum base. I own 30+ year old vehicles that have had this Armorall treatment since new and people can't believe the original battery cables are still in there good as new. Word to the wise. You will have a tough time to re-paint anything that has had Armorall on it. Your paint will "fisheye" for no apparent reasons. I have no affilation with them but wish I did since I started using this stuff way back.
As far as disconnecting the battery, I didn't disconnect mine when I done my ABS module. I even disconnected the module wiring at a friends house just to show him how easy it is, again without unhooking the battery. The car doesn't seem to notice this at all. I believe there are several relays that remove the power from many of the accessories when the ignition is off. Apparently this module as well as a few others are protected this way. Does anyone know of some of his issues that can be traced to faulty or MISSING relays? As a matter of habit, I often swap some of these relays around when trouble shooting. I haven't found any bad ones in my car as of yet, and if I did, I am sure there would be one for a Ford out there that would work just fine.
Good luck and keep us posted.

 

I realize this is my old thread and I just went through it to see the problems others may be having and I wanted to mention a couple of things.

I didn't disconnect my battery when I did the solder procedure.

I didn't bleed the brakes either. (this may be a bad thing)

After "ToManyToys" post I am a bit concerned now about the sealant I used to close the cover but am going to leave it as is.

Glad this thread has been helpful, I can't believe how happy I was when this fix saved me $2800!