gas smell
#1
gas smell
I recently had my 2001 XK8 into the local Jaguar dealer (Collier in Orlando) for a smoke test. I had been getting the PO455 code. I had replaced the Cannister close valve and some of the tubing connecting the carbon cannisters. The smoke test showed a leaky carbon cannister which they replaced about 4 months ago.
I can now smell gas at the top of the rear passenger side wheel???? right above where they replaced the carbon cannister. I checked the pipe going into the cannister but no leak. I have read all the threads on PO455 problems.
Any ideas, suggestions, would be very welcome
P.S. I am not showing any ODB codes on the dashboard.
I can now smell gas at the top of the rear passenger side wheel???? right above where they replaced the carbon cannister. I checked the pipe going into the cannister but no leak. I have read all the threads on PO455 problems.
Any ideas, suggestions, would be very welcome
P.S. I am not showing any ODB codes on the dashboard.
#2
Not sure this is it, because you said tubing was replaced, but this is a common problem back there:
Look for a little section of rubber hose, 2"-3" long, between the right side canister close valve and the right side evaporative canister (the black rectangular box), under the car, near the right rear wheel. These dry rot and start leaking...you should see cracks in the rubber if this is your problem. If this is it the part number NJC6068CA and it is around $8.00 at the dealer.
Look for a little section of rubber hose, 2"-3" long, between the right side canister close valve and the right side evaporative canister (the black rectangular box), under the car, near the right rear wheel. These dry rot and start leaking...you should see cracks in the rubber if this is your problem. If this is it the part number NJC6068CA and it is around $8.00 at the dealer.
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djpxk8 (02-25-2011)
#3
gas smell
If the smell is caused by a faulty cannister purge valve as some of the threads suggest. When I take the wheel cover off how will I know if the purve valve is faulty? Will I be able to smell the gas? do I need the engine running to check for leak? Do I just replace it and hope for the best???
I have already replaced the cannister close valve under rear axle.
I have already replaced the cannister close valve under rear axle.
#4
what year is your car? my CCV was replaced last year, and I just replaced the purge control valve myself yesterday...due to a loudly ticking, and when driving really slow for long periods of time, I smell fuel in the cabin.
if you would like to avoid the same question each time you post a question, you might consider putting your car information in your signature, open up your control panel and complete that option.
if you would like to avoid the same question each time you post a question, you might consider putting your car information in your signature, open up your control panel and complete that option.
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djpxk8 (02-28-2011)
#6
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djpxk8 (02-28-2011)
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#8
#9
#10
looks like a good plan, and at least you won't require an ECM reprogram like mine did, saving you a 1/2 hour of dealer labor in the process. A quick check of Gaudin Jaguar's online parts system shows the pricing at right around $75 for the valve, that's not bad at all for a possible fix before you tackle any fuel tank procedures.
#11
OK, I have implemented TSB 330-61v2 and TSB 303-63 and the gas smell appears to be resolved. The only thing I did not do was remove the fuel tank to add a second seal. I bought the seal, but will only do that if I really need to.
Jaguar engineers really messed up on the evaporative system when you consider all these fixes :
-Relocate evap. air intake filter outside of of body (it was in rear shock tower).
-Seal openings where fumes might enter body
-Replace steel evap air intake pipe with aluminum one to prevent rust particles from entering canister close valve and causing it not to close properly
-Redesigned purge valve (old was was prone to corroding)
-Add an air filter to vent the purge valve
-Improve gas tank to body sealing
Jaguar engineers really messed up on the evaporative system when you consider all these fixes :
-Relocate evap. air intake filter outside of of body (it was in rear shock tower).
-Seal openings where fumes might enter body
-Replace steel evap air intake pipe with aluminum one to prevent rust particles from entering canister close valve and causing it not to close properly
-Redesigned purge valve (old was was prone to corroding)
-Add an air filter to vent the purge valve
-Improve gas tank to body sealing
#12
Hey guys, I have a question for you on this subject. I have a 2002 XK8 convertible. The gas smell is coming from right above the back wheel well in the trunk. 1) Could this be a vent pipe. 2) Would a stuck purge valve cause a smell back there. I don't know how it works, so I am confused. If it is the purge valve, I have no way to test it. Do you have any pictures of what you did. Thanks Blake!!
#13
The vent pipe is near the passenger side wheel well. Normally you would also smell gas outside the trunk, near the passenger side wheel if the smell is coming from there. A malfunctioning purge valve can cause this. Even when the purge valve is good, some gas odor can enter the cabin from here...thats why they relocated the vent outside the body in the TSB.
If your smell is inside the trunk, you might have the gas tank seal problem mentioned in one of the TSBs. You also might have an unrelated problem with the piping from the gas fill pipe to the gas tank if the smell is distinctly on the driver's side.
Do you smell any gas near the rear passenger wheel well OUTSIDE the car, especially after a long drive?
Also, have you checked for OBDII codes? Some, but not all, evaporative emissions failures will register fault codes.
If your smell is inside the trunk, you might have the gas tank seal problem mentioned in one of the TSBs. You also might have an unrelated problem with the piping from the gas fill pipe to the gas tank if the smell is distinctly on the driver's side.
Do you smell any gas near the rear passenger wheel well OUTSIDE the car, especially after a long drive?
Also, have you checked for OBDII codes? Some, but not all, evaporative emissions failures will register fault codes.
#14
Thanks, I had autozone run the code check. Came up with code Oem po0455.
Large leak detected. ECM has detected a large leak in the EVAP system during a system monitoring test. Possible cause: 1) defective, loose or missing fuel cap. 2) EVAP canister broke, house cracked our not connected. 3) purge or solenoid defective 4) vacuum leak at engine........
I think the car has the original gas cap. So I filled it yesterday and covered the filler tube opening with a plastic bag and then put on the cap. That seems to have stopped the smell. The engine light is still on, but out has probably not cleared yet. I guess I will order the new replacement cap.
I don't understand the evap stem, and how a gas cap can cause fumes to come from somewhere else. I am assuming if the cap lets are in, the evap system lets has fumes out a hole. But not sure. Thanks in advance!!!
Large leak detected. ECM has detected a large leak in the EVAP system during a system monitoring test. Possible cause: 1) defective, loose or missing fuel cap. 2) EVAP canister broke, house cracked our not connected. 3) purge or solenoid defective 4) vacuum leak at engine........
I think the car has the original gas cap. So I filled it yesterday and covered the filler tube opening with a plastic bag and then put on the cap. That seems to have stopped the smell. The engine light is still on, but out has probably not cleared yet. I guess I will order the new replacement cap.
I don't understand the evap stem, and how a gas cap can cause fumes to come from somewhere else. I am assuming if the cap lets are in, the evap system lets has fumes out a hole. But not sure. Thanks in advance!!!
#16
Fitting a new purge valve
Hi Blakeb1 I had a similar gas smell in my 2001 XK8, I had the smell just inside the offside wheel well at the top. I replace the fuel cap with a new one, that did not work. # weeks ago I replaced the purge valve in driver side wheel well see tsb provided by WhiteXKR in this thread, so far no smell and in fact my tick over has increased by around 50-100 revs, not sure why, but car is running great.
I managed to replace the purge valve by turning the steering wheel all the way to the left and had enough room to remove the wheel inside cover to get at the purge valve. Also, the new valve I fitted (see part number on the TSB) had an opening on the top which you connect a rubber tube plus filter. You need to instal the rubber tube to the top of the purge valve while its disconnected as its a very small hole in the tube and you have to push real hard to get it on. At least I did but then I am getting real old.
Will try to post some pictures I took which may help. Total cost for all the parts around $100 well worth it.
I managed to replace the purge valve by turning the steering wheel all the way to the left and had enough room to remove the wheel inside cover to get at the purge valve. Also, the new valve I fitted (see part number on the TSB) had an opening on the top which you connect a rubber tube plus filter. You need to instal the rubber tube to the top of the purge valve while its disconnected as its a very small hole in the tube and you have to push real hard to get it on. At least I did but then I am getting real old.
Will try to post some pictures I took which may help. Total cost for all the parts around $100 well worth it.
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#18
#19
The other TSB relocates the vent, because its current location allows fumes to enter into the passenger compartment. It also replaces the metal pipe leading to the vent, because the pipe rusts inside, and the rust particles can cause the cannister close valve to malfunction...leading to evaporative fault codes. The canister close valve is normally open, and it only closes for brief periods periodically as an automatic test of the integrity of the evaporative emissions system.
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djpxk8 (05-11-2011)