Some people say I lack character. If I just keep saying lots of cuss words I'll have more and more character!

 

That was an absolutely fantastic video Sam! I watched every second and thoroughly enjoyed it. It's nice when you learn something new like this about our cars (despite me having an S-type )

Another bonus about your video, is that it makes me want to make some videos for the S-type section. Now what to video, what to video? lol.

Thanks again and keep up the great work!
Rob

 

I see what you mean. Perhaps it wasn't the best expression, then Let's just say I was using poetic licence. Anyway, weightless or not, your videos are extremely good. Keep posting 'em.

 

Another fine addition Reverend, well done! In 25k, I'm due for a another pan/filter/fluid change. I will be rethinking my DIY attempt on this one, however, come time. I may let an experienced wrench take it on...with my parts sourcing, of course. Motorcarman located just 20 miles north of me deserves some of my business after all he's done for me, and others on this forum.

 

Another member asked me a question by PM, so I thought I'd share the question and my answer here so everyone can read it:

Initially the transmission took 3 quarts when the car was turned off. Then the pan filled up and the fluid started trickling out. At that point I started the engine and essentially overfilled it by putting in 4 more quarts. I had some very slight drips coming out, but as the fluid started to warm up it got to the point where I had a steady trickle of fluid coming out. That trickle probably started around 35 degrees Celcius. It kept trickling until my infrared thermometer read 40 degrees on the pan, at which point I plugged the fill hole. (I actually tried to plug it at 40, but it got closer to 42 before I could get the camera, plug, wrench, and everything positioned to reinstall the plug.) Now that the transmission has cooled down, I'm sure I could put the car back up on the jack stands, start the engine, and then pull the fill plug without any fluid trickling out (maybe a few drops) As the transmission warms up the fluid would start trickling out again at about 40 degrees. That's the ideal fluid level according to the 6HP26 documentation. I don't think too much can trickle out as long as you cap it before it gets to 50 degrees. That's the cutoff according to the 6HP26 documentation. If it gets warmer than 50 degrees, you have to turn off the engine and start over. Unfortunately, by turning off the engine a lot of the fluid is going to drain out, so be prepared.

The amount that trickled out between 35 and 40 degrees wasn't very much. It took 10 minutes to get 5 degrees warmer and I'd guess that about a quarter to a half pint drained out during that period. The trickle that was coming out was maybe a tablespoon every 30 seconds. If there was some way to cool the fluid I'm sure the trickle would have stopped. The fluid is only trickling out because it is getting warmer and warmer and expanding as it gets warmer.

 

Hey rev thanks again. One other question you mentioned that if you were to do it again you would use the actual ZF pan. Was that because of some fitment issues or just that the ZF pan seemed to be of higher quality? Just curious.

 

The pan I used fit fine. I just bought it because it was $26 cheaper ($101 for the Taiwan pan vs. $127 for the ZF pan). I ordered it from Rockauto.com thinking that it was probably a genuine ZF pan even though the description didn't say whether it was or not. I'm cheap, and I don't like to pay more for anything than I have to. However, I'll pay more if what I'm buying is of better quality. I took a chance with the rockauto pan, and it will probably be fine, but I'd rather have the peace of mind of knowing that my pan was a genuine OEM part. It would have been worth an extra $26 to know I was getting a ZF pan.

I don't have any complaints about the cheaper pan, but if the gasket starts leaking next year I'm going to be mad at myself for going the cheap route.

 

As one Cheapo to another, That's the chance we take!

 

Yep. It just bit me on some bushings that I ordered.

 

Thanks I was just curious. I actually will probably go with ctsc for the convenience of not having to order from multiple places. FYI, I found Mercon SP at O'Reilly's formerly Kragen for $3.99/qt.

 

Sam,

Given the time and effort you put into this job, not to mention the downside risk of a new transmission, $26. should be a no-brainer investment in peace of mind. Penny wise and pound foolish........

 

I know already! Ya'll can stop giving me a hard time now. I thought I might be getting a genuine ZF pan for $26 cheaper. My frugal side won out over my smart side.

 

I'm getting ready for this job on the XJ8, but I plan to have the local Jag specialist do it with the kit I bought from CTSC. The $150 price for all this mess is below my threshold of doing it myself.
I'm having my 04 Audi A6 (ZF 5HP19) done next week by the local Audi specialist for $140, very similar process.
That car will need a timing belt in 10,000 miles and its a huge mess to deal with, having to pull the front end off the car and the engine and retime the cams! It makes Jags seem very simple to work on and much better engineered.

 

Great post Rev Sam. Thanks. I would like to ad one suggestion. I had 6 pan bolts stuck and having just had shoulder surgery I couldn't use any of the techniques you suggested to remove them. In fact it was hard just using a ratchet one handed. But, all was not lost. all my buddies were busy so I had to find a way to get them out. The answer was an air chisel. Since you can get to the edge of the bolts hit them carefully with the air chisel. Had no problem and got all out with minimal effort. I would not recommend using the old bolts regardless of how they come out.

PB

 

Air chisel? So I guess you popped off the heads and then twisted out the shaft with some pliers?

By the way... I can't imagine doing that with a bad shoulder. I broke my shoulder blade a few years ago and that arm was pretty much useless until it was healed.

 

If you have a good blade on an air chisel you can place it on the edge of the bolt head and back out the bolt with little effort. Did not pop off heads. Moved the head maybe a quarter turn and then removed with fingers. Mine were not corroded so they just needed to moved a little to break them loose. Use the air chisel just as you would a hammer and chisel to turn stuck bolts. The edge of the bolt head will have marks afterward but otherwise undamaged. Normal hex head bolts would definately be ruined using this method. The reason to use new bolts is that the star hole may be good or not so why put old stripped bolts back in and have to do the same thing next time. I always replace bolts in critical places.

This was much quicker and easier than drilling and easy out. Once you realize the bolt is stuck use this method and preserve whats left of the star. When the bolt is freed you can still use the star bit to remove the remainder of the way.

Don't know if I would have tried this if I had had the use of both hands. Where there is a will there is a way.

Letting it drain a couple of days now and will then start the refill process. Have help lined up for that. Shoulder not well enough for that. Wife mad cause I was under car in sling anyway.

Hope this helps.
PB

 

hi mr reverend sir,

first of all let me say i absolutely love your video, as a DIYer of the 21st century i find myself running to youtube and videos when i need to figure out a job, and your video is absolutely awesome, it tell me everything ill need for the job and the steps ill need to get them done, but i do have two questions if you dont mind me asking.

first, i was a bit confused at the filling up procedure, so once i start to get a leak initially, i turn the car on and shift through the gears, do i then WAIT for it to heat to its optimal temperature of 35-50 C before continuing to add more fluid, or do i keep adding fluid the moment after i get back underneath the car from my gear shifting en devour?
and question number is does the xk share the same tranny as the xj more specificlly an 01?

thank you ahead of time for your responses, great video again

 

Once you start the car and shift through the gears, the fluid will be sucked up into the transmission and you can pump fluid into the transmission until it starts to drip out of the fill hole. Then, as the transmission warms up, the fluid will begin to expand and it will keep dripping out (actually it will be a steady stream). You want to plug the hole at about the middle of the temperature range. By doing that, you've allowed the excess fluid to drain out and you won't overfill the transmission. If you wait until the fluid gets too warm, you'll end up allowing too much to drain out and you won't have enough fluid in the transmission.

Someone else is going to have to answer that. I believe the 01 XJ has the same transmission as an 01 XK, which is different than the one in the video.

 

Hello Reverend Sam & fellow readers ! I'm needing to do a pan/fluid change on my S-Type's 6HP26 soon...Here I go starting another fluid debate =) I'm wondering how did that Mercon SP work out for you ? Any regrets using it? Great video by the way, I actually watched it two times LOL

Thanks

 

Now I know why the dealer wants $500 to change the tranny fluid.....thought it was kinda high at first. How many quarts does the system use. I assume you use a semi synthetic.