XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

How important is it to do all the tensioners and chains on my 1997?

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Old 01-14-2014 | 12:52 PM
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Default How important is it to do all the tensioners and chains on my 1997?

How important is it to do all the tensioners and chains on my 1997 XK-8 Coupe with 81000 miles on it. I did the top tensioners at 77000 miles and all seems well so far. I use this Jag about 1200 miles per year. It is one of my five cars I keep as a garage queen. Now its leaking oil only during temps of under 25 degrees. Any advice welcome. Thanks.
 
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Old 01-14-2014 | 02:08 PM
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The primaries make noise when they fail, but it is unlikely they will cause serious damage. I did not change my primaries, and don't plan on it. I drive about 3K/yr.
 
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Old 01-14-2014 | 04:06 PM
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Well the Merchants of Doom will say that you have to change everything, and RIGHT NOW; but as previously described, the primary tensioners are not nearly as contentious as the secondary ones. General concensus on these is that, if the original - style (plastic bodied) secondary tensioners are fitted then you should change them soon for the new - style metal bodied tensioners; which is not such a big deal, and there are a few write - ups on this forum on how to do it if you have already done them then it's probably all fine.
Good luck,
John
 
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Old 01-14-2014 | 05:45 PM
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Agree that the primary tensioners are not as frequent a problem, although they do go bad. However with them you get some warning in the form of a rattle in the front of the engine, so you have time to react.

The oil leak is not related to the tensioners and should be looked at separately. Is it engine oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid or what?
 
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Old 01-14-2014 | 06:13 PM
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I never touched my primaries when I did the problematic secondaries on my XK8. That was around 70k miles. It lasted until 113k miles when the car was done in by a rear-ender in DC traffic.

I had oil analysis done at every oil change intervals and nothing indicated any plastic parts or undue wear from those components. It's hard to say without looking but I think the car would have been fine for a good while longer. My two cents.

But an oil leak that only occurs during cold weather is a new one on me. It's likely unrelated to the tensioners. Have you been able to isolate it yet and are you sure it is oil?
 

Last edited by BurgXK8; 01-14-2014 at 06:16 PM.
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Old 01-14-2014 | 06:14 PM
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Thanks for all the valuable info. I see you agree with Nigel Thorleys book NOT to change the whole ball of whacks. Thanks....that's a relief. I understand the oil leak is a separate issue. It seems to be in the center of the oil pan. Didnt get it on a lift as yet. Weather is horrible here. We had two inches of rain. everything is mud. No fit conditions to be encountered by my Jag. So really it could only be the valve cover gaskets, the girdle, or the pan gasket. Right??? Thanks again for all the info here. Also, many thanks to Graham for putting up with me as a forum newbie!
 
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Old 01-14-2014 | 06:16 PM
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Also, sorry it is oil. The synthetic I just put in about a month ago.
 
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Old 01-14-2014 | 06:19 PM
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I dont know which are the primaries. All I do know is I had the top tensioners done under the two valve covers. Are those the primarys??
 
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Old 01-14-2014 | 06:20 PM
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Ok so secondaries must be the top tensioners. Thanks.
 
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Old 01-14-2014 | 06:22 PM
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Since it does flow easier at colder temperatures than does dinosaur oil (even at the same viscosity ratings), synthetic oil **may** be more likely to seep through a weak spot, but that doesn't mean there is anything wrong with the synthetic - you would have found out about a leak sooner or later anyway.

I'd be speculating as to where it would be leaking but if you did the change yourself, have you checked the fill plug and filter areas? Does the pan have any obvious signs of bottoming out?
 
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Old 01-14-2014 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by BurgXK8
........ have you checked the fill plug and filter areas? Does the pan have any obvious signs of bottoming out?
+1

Always eliminate the simple things first before reaching for the cheque book.

Graham
 
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Old 01-16-2014 | 07:18 AM
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... and follow the trail - oil tends to travel down and towards the rear. A couple cases with a little loose oil filter have been identified on this forum, mine included.

Jouko
 
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Old 01-16-2014 | 03:17 PM
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Just for a data point on the primaries. I've got 191k on my original Nikasil engine with the original primary chains and tensioners. I've heard the tell-tale rattle for some time so I'm planning to go after it this winter or spring. Of course the secondary tensioners were done long ago at ~63k before I got the car.
 
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Old 01-16-2014 | 03:23 PM
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I did double check my work, both the filter and the plug. They are both dry. I will get it on a lift if the weather permits and try to figure it out. Thank-you very much! I look forward to input from the forum. After all, many mechanics around here think I am insane buying such a complicated car. In the eight years I have owned it, not even a check engine light. I am saying Hail Mary's as I type this. Will advise soon.
 
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Old 01-16-2014 | 04:01 PM
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  #16  
Old 01-22-2014 | 12:04 PM
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I wont be spending the cash to do the complete timing chain job. Not based on the guy with 190K plus on the car. If I get that kind of mileage...id be over a hundred years old. I only drive it 2000 miles per year if that. This is one of my novelty cars. No rain, no snow, no wind. I try to keep it as perfect as God will allow. I know it sounds crazy. Thanks again for the sound advice here.
 
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Old 10-16-2014 | 07:53 PM
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Hello-I sold my Sapphire blue Coupe for 14500 in March. I have been heartbroken and most miserable without it. So I searched intensely for another Coupe. It took months to find. The Coupe will be a collectible car real soon. I bought another Coupe from Exotic Motor cars in Florida. In amethyst metallic black. Does anyone know where the motor numbers are???? Thanks, Ben
 
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Old 10-17-2014 | 06:33 AM
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What year? I believe all the 4.0 cars have the number on top of the block to the left of the thermostat tower.
 
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