My car is a 2006 XK8 with 55k miles.

Accelerating from a stop, my car hesitated slightly and jolted suddenly into gear. That didn't feel or sound good. I'm surprised that no indicator light came on at all. Thankfully, I was right around the corner from home. I parked it and haven't driven it since.

So scared of what I might hear in going into shop next week.

If the transmission is slipping, does that usually/always mean the transmission is shot? According to my records, the transmissin fluid was last checked (and okay) 2000 miles ago.

Can anyone lend any guidance as to what I might expect? Any recurring problems with the trans on this model?

 

I have experienced this is my 2001 xk8, starting out slowly, there is a sudden jolt as it finds the gear. It's a bit alarming, but that doesn't mean your transmission is going out.
It just slipped into gear a bit hard. You didn't do anything "wrong" and you can keep driving it. The lights will come on when you are low on fluid, and when a transmission goes out the car won't go into gear or shift. Take it out again and just keep a mental note of when it happens. My car does this occasionally shifting into second, but other than the jolt, there have been no problems.

 

Not uncommon. Commonly referred to as the transmission jolt. There are many Technical Service Bulletins relating to this, but in many cases, none of these Jaguar TSB's help solve the problem. This is what happens when Jaguar insists on programming the transmission themselves instead of letting ZF, the makers of transmission, do it. This isn't so much a slipping issue as it is a learning / programming issue most likely. I've had this occasionally (as most or all have), and when it's wet out, my wheels squeek as if I'm trying to drive like a jerk.

 

+1 to Red1bw

I've had some odd transmission responses when the throttle input seems to fool the transmission electronics.

For something that unusual to concern a regular XK8 driver, I'm also surprised you didn't get a warning message. However, that's definitely good news. The Traction Control Module is programmed to enter 'safe mode' when a fault is detected.

The ZF6HP26 transmission is often described as 'bullet proof' but that may be because owners are only just starting to put some mileage on them.

If it's due in the shop next week, worth having the codes read to see if anything is stored or pending.

You mentioned fluid checked only 2k miles ago so unless there's a leak developed which you would almost certainly seen as pooling under the vehicle, the level is likely to be OK.

At 55k it's coming round to the time to be thinking about a fluid change. This isn't in the service schedules but many members are doing this as preventative maintenance.

Graham

 

Thanks Red1bw, and everyone. So what then can I expect Jaguar to do to resolve the issue? Will they just re-program it? Call me a silly female, but I am uncomfortable driving the car too far. I'm going to take a spin around my community tomorrow with a very observant ear/eye. I'm recalling I noticed a hesitation about a month ago but wrote it off as a fluke. What happened last week was much more concerning and hard to write off as a fluke.

 

Samantha take a look at this site Jaguar S-Type ZF Gearbox Lurch fault
they are talking about an S Type but it's the same box.
See if you can identify with any of the variants they describe.
The dealer will probably do a reflash of your Transmission control module unless it has been done previously.
When you take your test drive try it in sports mode, several people have found that helps.
Let us know how it goes.

 

Thanks again. I will report back.

I looked at that link. That is exactly what I experienced.

This info helps so much. I hate to go into service unarmed with any information.

 

If you make a complete stop, that may help avoid the rolling bump when you accelerate away.

Mine was more prominent before I did the fluid change myself, and I swear it was about a half-quart low when I refilled it back compared to what was removed. After that, the lurch was less likely to occur.

Also, they are always (it seems) upgrading the transmission control module software, so going in for a reflash and update may help tremendously, and have them check the fluid level while they've got it.

I found the ZF transmission adaptation procedure, but it will only help IF the adaptations are cleared, and contrary to what was posted on here previously by me, these adaptations can only be cleared using the dealer software - SDD/IDS. Afterward, the adaptation drive listed below 'teaches' it once again.

 

My car used to do that occasionally until I changed the transmission fluid. I don't think the fluid itself was at fault, I just think it was a little low.

You say the fluid level was checked 2000 miles ago, but how did they check it? There is no transmission dipstick on your car, so to check it they have to raise the car while it's COLD, remove the fill plug with the engine running and the transmission in gear, and then monitor the drips from the fill plug as the transmission warms up to a certain temperature (as measured by a fancy computer hooked to your car). This isn't something that they do at Jiffy Lube or Firestone. Unless the dealer told you that they checked the level, I doubt it actually got checked.

 

Reverend Sam, I often wonder whether the proper work was performed on my car. How do we really know what's going on back there? The last time, they kept my car for the whole day. I picked it up the next morning, so it was at least possible.

I don't go to the Jiffy Lube-type places. Don't trust them with the car. It's either the dealer or a very reputable foreign car repair shop I use.

 

H20boy, thanks for the tip, but not exactly my cup of tea. :-(

 

My 05 has a slight lurch right when rolling to a stop, but it's relatively minor. It feels like someone hits my rear end really lightly. It's so minor, I figured it was just a quirk...

 

A freind of mine had that issue on his Ford 250. Just as it started moving it felt like a slip in the tranny then a slam like a clutch. He took it in to the dealer and sure enough just need reprogramming. It drives absolutely perfect again. Amazing, everything now runs on software.

 

Happened upon this thread and wow. Buy your own trans dip stick from Eurotoyz. My recommendation once you know your fluid is ok, go out and rip your car through the gears, manual down shifting and manual upshifting/straight piece of highway, both in sport and normal . 3 seperate times in each.

GL

 

rlover, is this your theory or a documented procedure? just askin...

 

I suggest having the fluid drained and filled with the ZF fluid and the filter pan replaced. This behavior can be a sticking clutch pack in the transmission and it is caused by old fluid with worn out friction modifiers. I had this problem with both my cars and the fluid and pan change corrected it. The 6HP26 kit is available from "the CTSC" online for about $250 and the labor runs about $200. It is my recommendation that you get a new electronics connector sleeve for about $20 form CTSC as well and have it replaced too, as they ofter start leaking at about your mileage. They can only be changed when the pan is off so it is smart to do it all together. The labor for the sleeve ran me $75.

 

Hmmm, as I commented in #11, not something for me. I drive it but am forced to have some smart guys somewhere fix it - if I'm lucky..

 

She is going to be told by the Jaguar dealer service that the transmission "is sealed for life" and that it is not "needed". They do not want the liability. But he is right all transmission fluid should be changed every 60,000 miles and the rear end fluid at 60k as well. "but they will tell you it is not required".. I believe however the filter is built into the trans pan "not a 100% sure" and that they will charge $995.00 for pan and $400.00 in service. That is what they charged me for my S-Type-R. "it was like brandnew afterwards" I had to sign a waiver for them to do it.

 

The filter is a part of the pan. The pan and the ZF Lifeguard 6 fluid (6 liters) cost $240 from CTSC, the sleeve was another $15. I use an independent Jag shop for this and the labor there was a little under $200 for the pan and fluid change and $75 for the sleeve installation. This is a common price for the work. Dealers are too expensive to be doing simple fluid changes, and the guys that do them there are often grease monkeys. Independent shops usually use techs to do all the work, with the chance for better results.

 

my '03 XK did this exact thing today.