It's Fixed!! Finally! (My slow start problem)
#1
It's Fixed!! Finally! (My slow start problem)
You may remember my ongoing problem where I had to crank the engine for 10 seconds or more to start the car. I finally fixed it! It was definitely the check valve on the fuel pump as I had suspected all along. I was just reluctant to pull the fuel tank to access the pump because I had heard the horror stories about how difficult it is. However, thanks to Avos' BRILLIANT idea of using a piece of plastic pipe to remove the fuel lines, I was able to remove my tank without much difficulty. I started about 3:00 this afternoon and by 7:15 I had everything buttoned up. If not for Avos I'd probably still be out their messing with the fuel line. Either that, or I would have just cut the line already.
I also need to thank Maxwdg. He was having the same problem I was having and he replaced his fuel pump, which fixed the problem. But he spent some time examining the old fuel pump to find out why it wasn't working. I spoke to him on the phone, and he described the problem, which was a broken tab on the check-valve. When I pulled out my pump, it had the exact same broken tab! The check-valve is held together by two little, 1/4 inch, plastic tabs. I was able to repair the check valve by drilling a hole in a piece of the valve and using stainless steel safety wire, like what is used on airplanes to hold bolts, to wire the check-valve back together in such a way that it won't come apart again.
By the way... all of this became necessary because yesterday evening I started having engine trouble that I thought was fuel pressure related. My OBD tool was showing the fuel pressure fluctuating between 35-40 PSI while idling, all the way down to 15 PSI while trying to climb gentle hills. When it got down below 20 PSI the engine would start hesitating, and I was actually beginning to wonder if I was going to make it home. When I got the fuel pump out I could see that the check valve was actually coming apart. It was barely staying together, and the fuel pressure that would normally be going into the fuel line was just spraying out from the edges of the broken check valve.
So anyway, I'll try to post the video of the fuel tank removal in the next day or two. In hindsight I wish I had just pulled the tank a year ago when this problem first arose. Instead I tried installing an in-line check valve, and then I tried to fix the problem electrically by rigging a system which primed my fuel line. In all, I spent way more time trying to come up with a "rigged" solution than I did in actually fixing it the right way.
Well... the "right way" as long as you consider bailing wire an acceptable solution.
I also need to thank Maxwdg. He was having the same problem I was having and he replaced his fuel pump, which fixed the problem. But he spent some time examining the old fuel pump to find out why it wasn't working. I spoke to him on the phone, and he described the problem, which was a broken tab on the check-valve. When I pulled out my pump, it had the exact same broken tab! The check-valve is held together by two little, 1/4 inch, plastic tabs. I was able to repair the check valve by drilling a hole in a piece of the valve and using stainless steel safety wire, like what is used on airplanes to hold bolts, to wire the check-valve back together in such a way that it won't come apart again.
By the way... all of this became necessary because yesterday evening I started having engine trouble that I thought was fuel pressure related. My OBD tool was showing the fuel pressure fluctuating between 35-40 PSI while idling, all the way down to 15 PSI while trying to climb gentle hills. When it got down below 20 PSI the engine would start hesitating, and I was actually beginning to wonder if I was going to make it home. When I got the fuel pump out I could see that the check valve was actually coming apart. It was barely staying together, and the fuel pressure that would normally be going into the fuel line was just spraying out from the edges of the broken check valve.
So anyway, I'll try to post the video of the fuel tank removal in the next day or two. In hindsight I wish I had just pulled the tank a year ago when this problem first arose. Instead I tried installing an in-line check valve, and then I tried to fix the problem electrically by rigging a system which primed my fuel line. In all, I spent way more time trying to come up with a "rigged" solution than I did in actually fixing it the right way.
Well... the "right way" as long as you consider bailing wire an acceptable solution.
The following 10 users liked this post by Reverend Sam:
dannyS (03-24-2013),
EZDriver (11-11-2011),
GordoCatCar (11-10-2011),
MalShakes (04-01-2013),
mcbeefsteak (11-10-2011),
and 5 others liked this post.
#3
#5
The following users liked this post:
GordoCatCar (11-10-2011)
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Yep! I drove it about 100 miles today with several stops. The fuel pressure was steady between 54 and 56 PSI almost continuously, with an occasional blip when I would accelerate hard. Prior to the repair it would fluctuate between 15 and 45 PSI. I didn't have a single slow start problem today, even after the car sat all night.
#10
You may remember my ongoing problem where I had to crank the engine for 10 seconds or more to start the car. I finally fixed it! It was definitely the check valve on the fuel pump as I had suspected all along. I was just reluctant to pull the fuel tank to access the pump because I had heard the horror stories about how difficult it is. However, thanks to Avos' BRILLIANT idea of using a piece of plastic pipe to remove the fuel lines, I was able to remove my tank without much difficulty. I started about 3:00 this afternoon and by 7:15 I had everything buttoned up. If not for Avos I'd probably still be out their messing with the fuel line. Either that, or I would have just cut the line already.
I also need to thank Maxwdg. He was having the same problem I was having and he replaced his fuel pump, which fixed the problem. But he spent some time examining the old fuel pump to find out why it wasn't working. I spoke to him on the phone, and he described the problem, which was a broken tab on the check-valve. When I pulled out my pump, it had the exact same broken tab! The check-valve is held together by two little, 1/4 inch, plastic tabs. I was able to repair the check valve by drilling a hole in a piece of the valve and using stainless steel safety wire, like what is used on airplanes to hold bolts, to wire the check-valve back together in such a way that it won't come apart again.
By the way... all of this became necessary because yesterday evening I started having engine trouble that I thought was fuel pressure related. My OBD tool was showing the fuel pressure fluctuating between 35-40 PSI while idling, all the way down to 15 PSI while trying to climb gentle hills. When it got down below 20 PSI the engine would start hesitating, and I was actually beginning to wonder if I was going to make it home. When I got the fuel pump out I could see that the check valve was actually coming apart. It was barely staying together, and the fuel pressure that would normally be going into the fuel line was just spraying out from the edges of the broken check valve.
So anyway, I'll try to post the video of the fuel tank removal in the next day or two. In hindsight I wish I had just pulled the tank a year ago when this problem first arose. Instead I tried installing an in-line check valve, and then I tried to fix the problem electrically by rigging a system which primed my fuel line. In all, I spent way more time trying to come up with a "rigged" solution than I did in actually fixing it the right way.
Well... the "right way" as long as you consider bailing wire an acceptable solution.
I also need to thank Maxwdg. He was having the same problem I was having and he replaced his fuel pump, which fixed the problem. But he spent some time examining the old fuel pump to find out why it wasn't working. I spoke to him on the phone, and he described the problem, which was a broken tab on the check-valve. When I pulled out my pump, it had the exact same broken tab! The check-valve is held together by two little, 1/4 inch, plastic tabs. I was able to repair the check valve by drilling a hole in a piece of the valve and using stainless steel safety wire, like what is used on airplanes to hold bolts, to wire the check-valve back together in such a way that it won't come apart again.
By the way... all of this became necessary because yesterday evening I started having engine trouble that I thought was fuel pressure related. My OBD tool was showing the fuel pressure fluctuating between 35-40 PSI while idling, all the way down to 15 PSI while trying to climb gentle hills. When it got down below 20 PSI the engine would start hesitating, and I was actually beginning to wonder if I was going to make it home. When I got the fuel pump out I could see that the check valve was actually coming apart. It was barely staying together, and the fuel pressure that would normally be going into the fuel line was just spraying out from the edges of the broken check valve.
So anyway, I'll try to post the video of the fuel tank removal in the next day or two. In hindsight I wish I had just pulled the tank a year ago when this problem first arose. Instead I tried installing an in-line check valve, and then I tried to fix the problem electrically by rigging a system which primed my fuel line. In all, I spent way more time trying to come up with a "rigged" solution than I did in actually fixing it the right way.
Well... the "right way" as long as you consider bailing wire an acceptable solution.
Here's hoping you took some stills.
I know everybody appreciates your diligence on this.
Cheers,
#11
I have no still pics, but I have a video which shows it before and after I made the "repair". I know some people will consider it a "bailing wire and chewing gum" repair, but if it keeps me from having to spend $500+ on a fuel pump for another year, then I don't care what anyone else thinks. Besides, it's hidden in the fuel tank where no one can see it.
#12
I have no still pics, but I have a video which shows it before and after I made the "repair". I know some people will consider it a "bailing wire and chewing gum" repair, but if it keeps me from having to spend $500+ on a fuel pump for another year, then I don't care what anyone else thinks. Besides, it's hidden in the fuel tank where no one can see it.
Cheers,
#13
So, I'm in the process of writing a PM to The Reverand to say... Yeah Buddy! Glad ya fixed your car -
And I began to think a bit more about all the information that has come out of the posts on the 2003 XKR fuel pump subject in the last month or two:
My original problem was a "dead right there" situation. Subsequent investigation proved I had almost zero fuel pressure, even though I could hear the pump running full speed.
After a HORRIBLY DIFFICULT experience taking my tank out, (a problem that member Avos may have solved for all of us)
I got my first look at my fuel pump assembly. Even though one of the plastic tabs on the check valve body was broken, the valve seemed to still be sufficiently intact. And I did find a few slivers of metal in the bottom of the swirl pot that probably were from the wearing of gears in the actual pump itself. So... I (perhaps prematurely) made the assumption that the pump gears had been worn out from excessive heat caused by me letting the fuel level get lower than I should - and I had low line pressure because of it.
After not being able to find an exact replacement pump, I found a salvaged pump ASSEMBLY and was able to get my XK back on the road.
Hmmmmmmmmm............ WAS a worn out pump really the problem????
On my pump assembly, the check valve parts (the O-rings, a spring and a Nitrile or Viton rubber pad that seals against a seat built into the body of the valve) were still in place inside the valve and SEEMED fairly tight - but (and here's the big question) WAS the 50-100 psi fuel pressure that the pump can produce pushing the valve apart spraying fuel all about the inside of the tank, leaving very little pressure at the fuel rail?
Did I just spend over $300 dealing with a problem that could have been fixed with my little spool of stainless steel wire???
This calls for more investigation......
I WILL return !
And I began to think a bit more about all the information that has come out of the posts on the 2003 XKR fuel pump subject in the last month or two:
My original problem was a "dead right there" situation. Subsequent investigation proved I had almost zero fuel pressure, even though I could hear the pump running full speed.
After a HORRIBLY DIFFICULT experience taking my tank out, (a problem that member Avos may have solved for all of us)
I got my first look at my fuel pump assembly. Even though one of the plastic tabs on the check valve body was broken, the valve seemed to still be sufficiently intact. And I did find a few slivers of metal in the bottom of the swirl pot that probably were from the wearing of gears in the actual pump itself. So... I (perhaps prematurely) made the assumption that the pump gears had been worn out from excessive heat caused by me letting the fuel level get lower than I should - and I had low line pressure because of it.
After not being able to find an exact replacement pump, I found a salvaged pump ASSEMBLY and was able to get my XK back on the road.
Hmmmmmmmmm............ WAS a worn out pump really the problem????
On my pump assembly, the check valve parts (the O-rings, a spring and a Nitrile or Viton rubber pad that seals against a seat built into the body of the valve) were still in place inside the valve and SEEMED fairly tight - but (and here's the big question) WAS the 50-100 psi fuel pressure that the pump can produce pushing the valve apart spraying fuel all about the inside of the tank, leaving very little pressure at the fuel rail?
Did I just spend over $300 dealing with a problem that could have been fixed with my little spool of stainless steel wire???
This calls for more investigation......
I WILL return !
#16
#17
I have the same problem.
I just bought an 03 silver XK8 and I am having the same problem. My obd shows 60 psi while idling, but goes right to zero when the car is shut off. Also takes a lot of cranking to start.
I saw your video, thank you btw. I wanted to know how hard it was to re-attach the fuel line to the tank?
Also, where did you buy the aircraft wire?
One other thing, do they make just the pump that goes into the assembly? I figured while I have it out it wouldn't hurt to replace it.
The $600 assembly is not an option.
Also, It does idle a little weird sometimes so I'm thinking it's a broken tab on the chek valve.
Thank you in advance for the help.
Quinn
I saw your video, thank you btw. I wanted to know how hard it was to re-attach the fuel line to the tank?
Also, where did you buy the aircraft wire?
One other thing, do they make just the pump that goes into the assembly? I figured while I have it out it wouldn't hurt to replace it.
The $600 assembly is not an option.
Also, It does idle a little weird sometimes so I'm thinking it's a broken tab on the chek valve.
Thank you in advance for the help.
Quinn
#19