Throttle Body Cable Adjustment = Original Power Restored ?
#41
How to adjust the 4.0 engine. (Left hand drive)
The 4.0 engine is a little different to adjust and easier it may seem. (Mine is the R model, but I assume the standard is similar)
The location of the cable and adjustment is not under the small cover, but attached to the left side of the throttle body.
Now you can pull back on the throttle by using your thumb on the post on the outside throttle pulley. When you let go, you should hear the metal to metal contact of the pulley as it snaps back into idle position. This is important to remember. There is a cable strap holding the throttle cable in the cable bracket. Clip the cable strap and remove it. (Be sure you have a replacement handy.) You can grab the throttle cable with two fingers and lift it up and down to see if there is slack in the cable. Now, grab the throttle cable on each side of the bracket with two fingers and lift straight up. Notice that the cable sheath is like a screw and the bracket attachment is like a nut on a screw. Turn the bracket attachment a few turns so that the cable goes to the rear of the car and snap it back in place. Feel the tension on the cable. Pull the throttle back with the outside pulley and let it go. If you hear the metal to metal contact when you release the the pulley the cable is not too tight. You may want to over adjust the cable and move the cable back by 1/4 turn of the bracket attachment until you hear the metal to metal contact when the pulley is released.
Here is my cable adjusted and the cable tie reinstalled. I didn't have a black one handy, so I used a white one. If this bugs me later on, I'll replace the white one with a black one.
WHAT I HAVE NOTICED:
The accelerator pedal is instant. (No more tapping on it to the beat of the music!)
Now I understand the the reason behind starting off in 2nd gear on the R model. I do not have to press as far to get the car up to speed.
In sport mode, the throttle response is instant!
Downshifts seem to be quicker, probably because I am not pressing the pedal as far to get the car going.
On hard acceleration the car seemed to run out of torque in the upper rpm range, but now it feels like it is pulling hard until the throttle is released.
I have not had it on the freeway yet, so more to report later.
The location of the cable and adjustment is not under the small cover, but attached to the left side of the throttle body.
Now you can pull back on the throttle by using your thumb on the post on the outside throttle pulley. When you let go, you should hear the metal to metal contact of the pulley as it snaps back into idle position. This is important to remember. There is a cable strap holding the throttle cable in the cable bracket. Clip the cable strap and remove it. (Be sure you have a replacement handy.) You can grab the throttle cable with two fingers and lift it up and down to see if there is slack in the cable. Now, grab the throttle cable on each side of the bracket with two fingers and lift straight up. Notice that the cable sheath is like a screw and the bracket attachment is like a nut on a screw. Turn the bracket attachment a few turns so that the cable goes to the rear of the car and snap it back in place. Feel the tension on the cable. Pull the throttle back with the outside pulley and let it go. If you hear the metal to metal contact when you release the the pulley the cable is not too tight. You may want to over adjust the cable and move the cable back by 1/4 turn of the bracket attachment until you hear the metal to metal contact when the pulley is released.
Here is my cable adjusted and the cable tie reinstalled. I didn't have a black one handy, so I used a white one. If this bugs me later on, I'll replace the white one with a black one.
WHAT I HAVE NOTICED:
The accelerator pedal is instant. (No more tapping on it to the beat of the music!)
Now I understand the the reason behind starting off in 2nd gear on the R model. I do not have to press as far to get the car up to speed.
In sport mode, the throttle response is instant!
Downshifts seem to be quicker, probably because I am not pressing the pedal as far to get the car going.
On hard acceleration the car seemed to run out of torque in the upper rpm range, but now it feels like it is pulling hard until the throttle is released.
I have not had it on the freeway yet, so more to report later.
Last edited by hlgeorge; 07-04-2010 at 07:25 PM.
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#43
By the way, the impression that correctly setting the cable to remove slack has somehow resulted in more power is an illusion. If the cable was too slack and the throttle blades were not fully opening, then the only instance where you will truly find more power is at WOT--otherwise, no difference.
If you want to see what I mean you can create the same illusion of more power by moving your seat forward a few inches from where you normally have it. I have played around doing this with past cars and the sudden responsive you feel makes it seem like you found a bunch more horsepower. In reality, you are merely putting your foot into it quicker. This will eventually go away as your body adjusts to the new position. Similarly, move the seat further back than normal and it will feel like the car is suddenly sluggish.
So when taking the slack out of the cable, the same power is there as before but it is now just more responsive.
Doug
Doug
If you want to see what I mean you can create the same illusion of more power by moving your seat forward a few inches from where you normally have it. I have played around doing this with past cars and the sudden responsive you feel makes it seem like you found a bunch more horsepower. In reality, you are merely putting your foot into it quicker. This will eventually go away as your body adjusts to the new position. Similarly, move the seat further back than normal and it will feel like the car is suddenly sluggish.
So when taking the slack out of the cable, the same power is there as before but it is now just more responsive.
Doug
Doug
#44
By the way, the impression that correctly setting the cable to remove slack has somehow resulted in more power is an illusion. If the cable was too slack and the throttle blades were not fully opening, then the only instance where you will truly find more power is at WOT--otherwise, no difference.
If you want to see what I mean you can create the same illusion of more power by moving your seat forward a few inches from where you normally have it. I have played around doing this with past cars and the sudden responsive you feel makes it seem like you found a bunch more horsepower. In reality, you are merely putting your foot into it quicker. This will eventually go away as your body adjusts to the new position. Similarly, move the seat further back than normal and it will feel like the car is suddenly sluggish.
So when taking the slack out of the cable, the same power is there as before but it is now just more responsive.
Doug
If you want to see what I mean you can create the same illusion of more power by moving your seat forward a few inches from where you normally have it. I have played around doing this with past cars and the sudden responsive you feel makes it seem like you found a bunch more horsepower. In reality, you are merely putting your foot into it quicker. This will eventually go away as your body adjusts to the new position. Similarly, move the seat further back than normal and it will feel like the car is suddenly sluggish.
So when taking the slack out of the cable, the same power is there as before but it is now just more responsive.
Doug
#46
I actually think the sensitivity at the low end may be because the throttle sensor isn't hitting the stop at the low end. Perhaps it's sitting at 10% open even at idle. The ECU is adjusting the throttle opening for idle, but then as soon as I touch the gas pedal the ECU sees that the throttle should now be at 20% rather than 0% and it opens the throttle to 20% causing that jump. As an example of what I'm talking about, sit in any modern car and try to rev the engine to 1500 RPMs and hold it there. It will go there for a few seconds, then it slows back down to the normal idle speed. You have to keep tweaking the gas pedal to try to hold it at 1500 RPMs. I'm pretty sure that's the cars ECU (or whatever it's called in that brand of car) trying to compensate for a driver who is resting their foot on the gas pedal at idle.
#47
Originally Posted by seismicguy
then the only instance where you will truly find more power is at WOT
Absolutely because you have changed thge "Tip In" on the car which is how sensitive the pedal is. As you stated smaller engined cars often change the tip in to give the immediate aceleration feeling while luxury cars tend to make a change in it so you have to depress the pedal more to accelerate the car to provide smoother starts and less neck jarring movements when you are in stop and go traffic or just accelerating from a stop.
Last edited by 2002XK8Orlando; 07-05-2010 at 10:07 AM.
#49
I am a very non-technical guy - BUT - I have always heard that these cars "adjust and learn" from their drivers. Could that be what we have here?
Perhaps is is not so much the mechanical adjustment of taking out the slack, but the driver action of lowering the gas pedal to the floor (WOT) position, that is showing the increase in performance?
Inscrutable - these English! Dale D
Perhaps is is not so much the mechanical adjustment of taking out the slack, but the driver action of lowering the gas pedal to the floor (WOT) position, that is showing the increase in performance?
Inscrutable - these English! Dale D
#51
#52
#53
By the way, the impression that correctly setting the cable to remove slack has somehow resulted in more power is an illusion. If the cable was too slack and the throttle blades were not fully opening, then the only instance where you will truly find more power is at WOT--otherwise, no difference.
If you want to see what I mean you can create the same illusion of more power by moving your seat forward a few inches from where you normally have it. I have played around doing this with past cars and the sudden responsive you feel makes it seem like you found a bunch more horsepower. In reality, you are merely putting your foot into it quicker. This will eventually go away as your body adjusts to the new position. Similarly, move the seat further back than normal and it will feel like the car is suddenly sluggish.
So when taking the slack out of the cable, the same power is there as before but it is now just more responsive.
Doug
Doug
If you want to see what I mean you can create the same illusion of more power by moving your seat forward a few inches from where you normally have it. I have played around doing this with past cars and the sudden responsive you feel makes it seem like you found a bunch more horsepower. In reality, you are merely putting your foot into it quicker. This will eventually go away as your body adjusts to the new position. Similarly, move the seat further back than normal and it will feel like the car is suddenly sluggish.
So when taking the slack out of the cable, the same power is there as before but it is now just more responsive.
Doug
Doug
#55
Sam already answered, but just to add, the X350 (2004+ XJ) is the same engine/drivetrain as the 2003+ XK, so it should be just the same as Sam has documented here. My 1999 XJR is like the other pictures as it doesn't have the electronic throttle body that your model does, but the net result is the same.
#56
Actually, I have found that moving the seat forward gives that sense of more responsiveness because when you do that, you tend to put your heel farther up under the gas pedal, so that, in essence you do not have to extend your foot as far to give it the gas. When your heel is far back from the pedal, and you have to stretch your foot way out to give it some gas, it just feels exactly like that, that you have to really extend yourself, and your car to get it really going. Just put your heel up under and closer to the pedal, and you will get the impression that your car is suddenly more responsive. I found out about this when I bought a Mitsubishi, and I read info about it, where Mitsubishi had decided to make the car more responsive, and seemingly faster, by adjusting the gas pedal so that it applied a more open throttle faster than they had been doing it before. Even when you became used to it, it felt very responsive. When someone would drive it for the first time, they always started out from stop VERY rapidly, sometimes to the extent of spinning the tires slightly.
By the time I get my 6'3" frame and my big feet into this cabin, there is very little room to consider pedal height, or foot access. I just know "it" goes better with this adjustment! DaleD
#58
Did you look at the video on page one? Unless you're driving a right hand drive car, it has to be under that little panel right there by the back left corner of the engine bay.
#60
Matt, it appears your 04XJ8 has a similar accelerator arrangement between the pedal and throttle body sd the S-types; it remains different than the XK8/R and the <2003 XJs. You don't have any type of cable adjustment. This is from one of their threads.
I looked in the JTIS, in the same section as ours where it describes the adjustment procedure, and it wasn't in there...just like the s-type model. Sorry to get you excited.
Originally Posted by bfsgross
S-types have a direct electrical link to throttle actuator.