XK Seats, switches, motors JTIS R&I Extracts
#1
XK Seats, switches, motors JTIS R&I Extracts
Hello
There is a new thread in the General Tech Help section of the forum (2001 XK8 How to Remove Seat Switches? ).
I extracted the following PDF files from JTIS21 CD that cover most of the power front seat components:
XK 1997 Seat Control Switch R&I 86.75.23.pdf
XK 1997 Front Seat R&I 76.70.01.pdf
XK 1997 Front Seat Track Motor R&I 86.75.33.pdf
xk 1997 front seat height motor R&I 86.75.29.pdf
XK 1997 Front Seat Recliner Motor R&I 86.75.04.pdf
XK 1997 Front Seat Backrest Trim Panel R&I 76.70.03.pdf
2001 XK Seats JTIS info.pdf
Jim Lombardi
There is a new thread in the General Tech Help section of the forum (2001 XK8 How to Remove Seat Switches? ).
I extracted the following PDF files from JTIS21 CD that cover most of the power front seat components:
XK 1997 Seat Control Switch R&I 86.75.23.pdf
XK 1997 Front Seat R&I 76.70.01.pdf
XK 1997 Front Seat Track Motor R&I 86.75.33.pdf
xk 1997 front seat height motor R&I 86.75.29.pdf
XK 1997 Front Seat Recliner Motor R&I 86.75.04.pdf
XK 1997 Front Seat Backrest Trim Panel R&I 76.70.03.pdf
2001 XK Seats JTIS info.pdf
Jim Lombardi
Last edited by jimlombardi; 05-26-2011 at 09:35 PM.
The following 9 users liked this post by jimlombardi:
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crbass (11-13-2019),
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Jim D (02-28-2015),
and 4 others liked this post.
#2
Thank you Jim. I started the thread on the general tech forum, I'll move my focus here. Appreciate your help, and the info you've posted here is very helpful. I see that I have to move the "Download JTIS Stuff" higher on my priority list, there must be a ton of gpood information there.
Steve
Steve
#3
Seat Repair Update
An update to my seat repair saga. I assembled my courage last weekend and tackled the seat, finding a way to move it forward and back without the use of a working switchpack.
First removing the Seat Control Module from beneath the seat revealed the connectors leading to the motors, switchpack, and the rest of the car systems. Studying the electrical diagrams enabled me to pick out the connector and contacts leading to the seat motor.
From Autozone I was able to pick up a fuse tap and a packet of miscelleneous "Ford" contacts and make up the simple circuit shown in the attached diagram permitting relatively safe connections to the seat harness connector. As shown in the table, applying the voltage and ground to the 7 and 8 contacts would move seat in the indicated direction. Just to be sure, I removed the fuse tap from the fuse block before moving the contacts in the connector body.
So after getting the seat to move forward and backwards, exposing the mounting screws, I was able to unbolt it and remove it from the car. With the seat laying down on a tarp spread on the garage floor I attempted to find the latch securing the switchpack to the seat bottom. Alas, after much probing all I succeeded in finding were the business ends of two very sharp self-tapping screws beneath the foam rubber. Fearing the worst and running out of time, I didn't attempt to remove the switchpack handles (the moving parts) to reveal the screw heads. I will research the attachment more carefully and tackle that again some other day.
However, with my fuse tap circuit pieces, I was able to manually move the seat forward and back as required, plug the seat control module back in, and then use the memory buttons to set two memory positions: one far forward and raised up for my wife, and the other further back and lowered down for me.
So, although not solved completely, I have reached a satisfactory temporary state where the seat can be moved forwards and back, and up and down, using the memory buttons, providing a much more comfortable driving experience.
As a bonus, while removing and replacing the negative lead on the battery for safety, I found the battery hold down loose, causing the horrible low speed clanging noise that I was blaming on some loose heat shield. A few drops of oil on the threads, and cinching them down tight made it all quiet again.
First removing the Seat Control Module from beneath the seat revealed the connectors leading to the motors, switchpack, and the rest of the car systems. Studying the electrical diagrams enabled me to pick out the connector and contacts leading to the seat motor.
From Autozone I was able to pick up a fuse tap and a packet of miscelleneous "Ford" contacts and make up the simple circuit shown in the attached diagram permitting relatively safe connections to the seat harness connector. As shown in the table, applying the voltage and ground to the 7 and 8 contacts would move seat in the indicated direction. Just to be sure, I removed the fuse tap from the fuse block before moving the contacts in the connector body.
So after getting the seat to move forward and backwards, exposing the mounting screws, I was able to unbolt it and remove it from the car. With the seat laying down on a tarp spread on the garage floor I attempted to find the latch securing the switchpack to the seat bottom. Alas, after much probing all I succeeded in finding were the business ends of two very sharp self-tapping screws beneath the foam rubber. Fearing the worst and running out of time, I didn't attempt to remove the switchpack handles (the moving parts) to reveal the screw heads. I will research the attachment more carefully and tackle that again some other day.
However, with my fuse tap circuit pieces, I was able to manually move the seat forward and back as required, plug the seat control module back in, and then use the memory buttons to set two memory positions: one far forward and raised up for my wife, and the other further back and lowered down for me.
So, although not solved completely, I have reached a satisfactory temporary state where the seat can be moved forwards and back, and up and down, using the memory buttons, providing a much more comfortable driving experience.
As a bonus, while removing and replacing the negative lead on the battery for safety, I found the battery hold down loose, causing the horrible low speed clanging noise that I was blaming on some loose heat shield. A few drops of oil on the threads, and cinching them down tight made it all quiet again.
#4
An update to my seat repair saga. I assembled my courage last weekend and tackled the seat, finding a way to move it forward and back without the use of a working switchpack.
First removing the Seat Control Module from beneath the seat revealed the connectors leading to the motors, switchpack, and the rest of the car systems. Studying the electrical diagrams enabled me to pick out the connector and contacts leading to the seat motor.
From Autozone I was able to pick up a fuse tap and a packet of miscelleneous "Ford" contacts and make up the simple circuit shown in the attached diagram permitting relatively safe connections to the seat harness connector. As shown in the table, applying the voltage and ground to the 7 and 8 contacts would move seat in the indicated direction. Just to be sure, I removed the fuse tap from the fuse block before moving the contacts in the connector body.
So after getting the seat to move forward and backwards, exposing the mounting screws, I was able to unbolt it and remove it from the car. With the seat laying down on a tarp spread on the garage floor I attempted to find the latch securing the switchpack to the seat bottom. Alas, after much probing all I succeeded in finding were the business ends of two very sharp self-tapping screws beneath the foam rubber. Fearing the worst and running out of time, I didn't attempt to remove the switchpack handles (the moving parts) to reveal the screw heads. I will research the attachment more carefully and tackle that again some other day.
However, with my fuse tap circuit pieces, I was able to manually move the seat forward and back as required, plug the seat control module back in, and then use the memory buttons to set two memory positions: one far forward and raised up for my wife, and the other further back and lowered down for me.
So, although not solved completely, I have reached a satisfactory temporary state where the seat can be moved forwards and back, and up and down, using the memory buttons, providing a much more comfortable driving experience.
As a bonus, while removing and replacing the negative lead on the battery for safety, I found the battery hold down loose, causing the horrible low speed clanging noise that I was blaming on some loose heat shield. A few drops of oil on the threads, and cinching them down tight made it all quiet again.
First removing the Seat Control Module from beneath the seat revealed the connectors leading to the motors, switchpack, and the rest of the car systems. Studying the electrical diagrams enabled me to pick out the connector and contacts leading to the seat motor.
From Autozone I was able to pick up a fuse tap and a packet of miscelleneous "Ford" contacts and make up the simple circuit shown in the attached diagram permitting relatively safe connections to the seat harness connector. As shown in the table, applying the voltage and ground to the 7 and 8 contacts would move seat in the indicated direction. Just to be sure, I removed the fuse tap from the fuse block before moving the contacts in the connector body.
So after getting the seat to move forward and backwards, exposing the mounting screws, I was able to unbolt it and remove it from the car. With the seat laying down on a tarp spread on the garage floor I attempted to find the latch securing the switchpack to the seat bottom. Alas, after much probing all I succeeded in finding were the business ends of two very sharp self-tapping screws beneath the foam rubber. Fearing the worst and running out of time, I didn't attempt to remove the switchpack handles (the moving parts) to reveal the screw heads. I will research the attachment more carefully and tackle that again some other day.
However, with my fuse tap circuit pieces, I was able to manually move the seat forward and back as required, plug the seat control module back in, and then use the memory buttons to set two memory positions: one far forward and raised up for my wife, and the other further back and lowered down for me.
So, although not solved completely, I have reached a satisfactory temporary state where the seat can be moved forwards and back, and up and down, using the memory buttons, providing a much more comfortable driving experience.
As a bonus, while removing and replacing the negative lead on the battery for safety, I found the battery hold down loose, causing the horrible low speed clanging noise that I was blaming on some loose heat shield. A few drops of oil on the threads, and cinching them down tight made it all quiet again.
#7
Hint: google chrome browser - upper left corner menu - 3 bars has the zoom as a menu item) -- Internet Explorer also has a similar menu in upper left corner - looks like a gear symbol - 3rd menu item down - Zoom.
Jim Lombardi
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#8
I am working on my 2001 XKR passenger seat that was not moving forward nor back. I found the connector that goes to the proper motor (pictures included) that has 2 wires going to it. I put in 2 small wires into the proper connectors and hooked up a 12 V battery. That made the seat go back and forward depending on how the wires were hooked up. Thus, I was able to remove the seat but now I have to figure out why it was not working.
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crbass (11-13-2019)
#9
#10
Trying to remove the seat control switch from my 2001 XK8. The 1997 manual says "9. Positioning cushion foam for access, use a screwdriver to release switchpack securing tab."
Can anyone elaborate on the required steps? Pried as much as I dare without breaking something...
Can anyone elaborate on the required steps? Pried as much as I dare without breaking something...
#11
I think you've perhaps already worked out the answer about the securing tab. In case someone else has the same question, this is how I worked it out on my 2000 XK8 convertible, passenger's side.
Take out the seat.
Take the subframe off the bottom of the seat, 4 #40 Torx. Front two are very difficult to reach, used a 1/4" t handle, to get past the subframe.
Unhook the seat cover all around the front edge and the sides, and remove the little trampoline like fabric panel under the center of the seat. The seat cover clips to the sides with 6 u shaped plastic channels that are sewn to the leather. The front edge has 4 metal clips.
Pull the cover off the front part of the foam. Pull it as far off as you can, to expose the foam. You can reach in to the back of the switch and unplug the cable, which has one of those little edge tab releases. Now with one hand to push the foam way back into the middle of the seat, it is possible to look into the back of the seat switch assembly. You're looking into the front part , where you see the black tab nestled into a square opening that is in the (also black plastic) base attached to the seat. You can put a medium flat blade screwdriver into that square opening, under the front edge of the tab, and pry backward and outward to pop it free. The other end of the switch assembly is hooked under a lip in the base. It isn't easy because the switch assembly is tightly jammed in to the hole which is lined with the seat leather.
Once you get the switch assembly out, you see it is held together with 5 tiny torx bolts. Tomorrow, I will be able to open the back of the switch, when I have the proper tiny torx tool in hand. Then I can discover what is behind the funky switch action.
So much of the interior of this car is manufactured from very cheap plastic. I know weight reduction was a goal but it is hard to respect the lack of quality.
Take out the seat.
Take the subframe off the bottom of the seat, 4 #40 Torx. Front two are very difficult to reach, used a 1/4" t handle, to get past the subframe.
Unhook the seat cover all around the front edge and the sides, and remove the little trampoline like fabric panel under the center of the seat. The seat cover clips to the sides with 6 u shaped plastic channels that are sewn to the leather. The front edge has 4 metal clips.
Pull the cover off the front part of the foam. Pull it as far off as you can, to expose the foam. You can reach in to the back of the switch and unplug the cable, which has one of those little edge tab releases. Now with one hand to push the foam way back into the middle of the seat, it is possible to look into the back of the seat switch assembly. You're looking into the front part , where you see the black tab nestled into a square opening that is in the (also black plastic) base attached to the seat. You can put a medium flat blade screwdriver into that square opening, under the front edge of the tab, and pry backward and outward to pop it free. The other end of the switch assembly is hooked under a lip in the base. It isn't easy because the switch assembly is tightly jammed in to the hole which is lined with the seat leather.
Once you get the switch assembly out, you see it is held together with 5 tiny torx bolts. Tomorrow, I will be able to open the back of the switch, when I have the proper tiny torx tool in hand. Then I can discover what is behind the funky switch action.
So much of the interior of this car is manufactured from very cheap plastic. I know weight reduction was a goal but it is hard to respect the lack of quality.
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crbass (11-13-2019)
#13
Is the white connector with the pink wires the same one Steve8 is referring to in his photo? If I disconnect this connector and connect the wires per his instructions should I be able to move the seat backwards and forwards to remove the seat?
[Pic deleted because it is just above this]
[Pic deleted because it is just above this]
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