XK8 Serpentine Belt Replacement
#1
#2
Probably not but armed with this diagram you shouldn't have any trouble:
1. put a spanner (see 1) on the centre of the belt tensioner idler pulley
2. viewed from the front, turn it to the left against spring tension
3. whilst maintaining tension, remove the drivebelt from the generator pulley (see 2)
4. release the tension slowly and remove the spanner
5. lift the serpentine belt off the other pulleys and remove
To fit the replacement, reverse the sequence. Ensure the belt ribs are squarely fitted on each pulley.
You can probably tell from this why no one can hold a video camera at the same time.
Graham
1. put a spanner (see 1) on the centre of the belt tensioner idler pulley
2. viewed from the front, turn it to the left against spring tension
3. whilst maintaining tension, remove the drivebelt from the generator pulley (see 2)
4. release the tension slowly and remove the spanner
5. lift the serpentine belt off the other pulleys and remove
To fit the replacement, reverse the sequence. Ensure the belt ribs are squarely fitted on each pulley.
You can probably tell from this why no one can hold a video camera at the same time.
Graham
Last edited by GGG; 10-27-2012 at 02:04 PM.
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#3
In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice on posting to the forum.
Graham
#5
XK8 Belt Replacement
Hello
I recently had the serpentine belt on my 1997 XK8 replaced. After the new belt was installed, I now experience a chirp after first starting the engine when cold. Any thoughts on the source of the chirp. It only started post new belt install.
I in conversation, I was told that it could be that the belt is over tightened.
Thoughts or advice
Thanks a bunch
Ed
I recently had the serpentine belt on my 1997 XK8 replaced. After the new belt was installed, I now experience a chirp after first starting the engine when cold. Any thoughts on the source of the chirp. It only started post new belt install.
I in conversation, I was told that it could be that the belt is over tightened.
Thoughts or advice
Thanks a bunch
Ed
#7
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#8
Thanks for these posts - especially the diagram! My local Jag dealer quoted $250 for the job. An aftermarket shop quoted the same. I thought, it really seems relatively simple, and with the help of my lovely wife taking the pressure off the tensioner with the tool I borrowed from Autozone ($30 deposit, fully refunded when I returned it) the job was done in about 15 minutes. $35 for the best belt Autozone stocked. There was another tip in this forum on disconnecting the bonnet struts so that access is easier - search that out before you begin the job. Good luck!
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JimmyL (10-10-2017)
#9
#13
Thanks for this thread! Mine threw her belt after a 4 hour drive this weekend. Got the belt today and immediately on attempting to route it I found that the tensioner pulley is... mostly GONE, looks like just bearings on the assembly. I'm awaiting the tensioner assembly and idler pulley (makes sense to replace both at the same time) to wake my kitty cat back up! Certainly hoping that she didn't get too hot in the half mile it took to get off the road!
#14
Be advised it can be a bit of an effort to get the new belt over the pulleys while applying pressure on your "NEW" tensioner pulley with your other hand. Also, as mentioned by GGG, double and triple check with a flashlight that the new belt is fully centered in the grooved pulleys or you might be buying another belt. Take TH's advice and replace the idler pulley also, mine had a slightly loose bearing. Is your existing belt wornout? Transverse cracks across the ribs are normal. Replace the belt if the cracks are parallel to the ribs. I think I've only replaced two serpentine belts in my entire life.
#15
I ordered both the pulley and the assembly. This belt isn't worn out, but it is split, the long way.. I wondered, when I fished it out of the car what could cause that, but given the heat wasn't able to immediately get into the bay to find it. Once I saw the condition of the tensioner, I knew exactly what caused the split! There was essentially no actual pulley there, only the bearings which appear to have seized up. I'm expecting the new parts this week. I anticipate a bit of yoga to get to the pulleys to replace!
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#18
Ha, thanks, I've already got the tension pulley and the idler pulley off for replacement. Should have the parts here shortly. I found this thread simply looking for the belt routing, since I was too lazy to try to scroll through the manual PDF. Once the pulley assemblies are here, I expect 10-15 minutes of work, and back on the road. I don't THINK she got too hot, but I guess we'll know within a few minutes of that belt being back in place.
#19
I just was sent a quote on a 98 k8. To replace water pump, thermostat and housing, water tube and bypass hose, and belt for $800+. This sounded ridiculous to me, I can get all the parts for under $200. Looks like a simple job for a handy guy. Am I wrong?
#20