2006 Range Rover 4.4
Cylinder head bolts
Part Number: 4677857
Go to dealer and order 20. Full retail for me anyways is $3.35 for each one. I'd call first though on the price.

I've done probably 10 cars worth of head gaskets on the AJ-V8. Only 2 cars were supercharged. I work at a independent Jaguar repair shop. For somebody to post a "every step from start to finish head gasket replacement" would seem like typing out War and Peace. It's that entailed... It is VERY time consuming and back breaking. One word of warning..DO NOT try to adjust valve clearance!! If you decide to do this HG job, mark and bag everything that comes off of each side. I would also have at least 2 or 3 fold out tables. One for each head and the other for the SC and any marked baggies. A high quality torque wrench, heavy duty breaker bar, 13mm socket 1/2" drive and Torx T60 1/2" drive socket is absolutely necessary.

Good luck!

 

thanks for weighing in... and yes.. not expecting a remove this bolt then this screw.. etc.. hehe it would be war and peace!!

using JTIS I cant find a single place that covers a head gasket job in so far as an order to remove things... i.e... start with throttle body or front cover.. a list of remove this first, second, third would be helpful

also, any tricks or sticky spots that are not well amplified in the manual or are only learned through experience.. ? what tricks do you know!!!

I agree.. I am leaning towards the Range Rover bolts.. are they rebe or polydrive?

also, I dont know if I have a composite or mls style oem gasket.. I am in that running change period, but looks like most failures are composite so that is what I am expecting to find, a pinched or deformed fire ring that pushed into the bore..

are the current head gasket kits indeed being shipped with a mls style gasket.. a jag parts place in TX said that jaguars head gasket kits are MLS now.. is that true.. and is MLS the way you would go if the engine has a composite from factory.. I am concerned that the composite gasket may have left fire ring marks in the block...

thanks again for weighting in.. wish you lived next door!!! having done that many looking over my shoulder occasionally would have been nice!!

 

bump... still hoping for some folks that have done this to share their expertise ... thanks

 

I'll explain what my Indy said for doing my xkr 4.0. A.use no air ratchets ! Bolts snap easy,b. Record compression on good cylinders. Drain oil,drain coolant, 1.Lay a long white sheet on each side of car to absorb oil residue from bolts,and parts. 2.soak the three top exhaust cat nuts with w40,then the bottom ones.3.remove hood.4.remove coolant reservoir.5. Remove airbox,plugs,coil packs,valve covers,catalytic converters,upper throttle body,lower throttle body with brackets, front coolant crossover pipe, both belts,radiator,ac condenser, supercharger,intake manifold,fuel injectors and plastic rails,accessories on timing chain front cover only as needed,remove crank dampner using intake bolts and standard dampner puller,using a hammer while tapping/pulling,remove timing cover, timing tensioners,timing chains. Take a week off, remove camshafts very gently, mark them as to orienratation, remove cylinder head bots, and heads. Send heads to machine shop to inspect valve seats,valves, and warpage,clean top of block off to a shiny surface using mineral spirits and rags, keep bolts with part s. Or use a egg carton to keep track. Install heads, use a dot of white out on the bolt when doing a degree final turn, one full turn in 360, a half a turn 180, a quart ofvturn 45, get it.Putting back together easy part, just use the cam tools, the flats line up on each side, a hole in the tranny to a dot,after aligned, crank over engine to check compression to good cylinders earlier,to verify cams aligned.Easy job,he said, just very frustrating due to little clearance, and back pain.

 

best reply YET!! thank you and your indy!! any chance you could ask him some of the questions I have on parts... the MLS vs Composite gasket, head bolts, etc?

I really liked the bit about take a week off... hehe.. I am getting too old to be hunched over all the time!!

Really.. thanks again...

 

I bought new 2006 model year range rover 4.4 v8 cylinder head bolts that are identical "torque to yield" as the Jaguar and lincoln LS V8 head bolts. I'm pretty certain you have composite head gaskets. I would install 04' on up XJ 4.2 N/A or S/C are the same "MLS" head gaskets. I just installed them tonight on the P/S of my 98 XJR. I have some valve work to do on my D/S cylinder head so it'll be awhile.

 

so the new bolts use a standard socket head? I thought it was a special driver now.. like polydrive or riibe head? Also, do the range rover bolts get the extra 1mm or so thicker in the shank between the head and the thread? The LS bolts that felpro sell dont get thicker, its the same diameter from bottom of threads to the top, and that is why they say not to use them in a s/c fitment... not enough clamping force.

are you finding that the RA surface of the block is going to be sufficient to accept the mls gasket.. that it is smooth enough since there is no way to properly deck or surface it while its in the car... the heads I can have machined to whatever RA it requires?

Also, do you find that the composite gasket leaves a indentation in the block or head from the factory crush? if that indentation is more than a thou or two, I dont know if the mls gasket could seal it appropriately since it would get the full pressure of the cylinder.

the only think I cant get a answer to from the parts guys is if the head gasket kits now come with the mls style gaskets from the factory since jaguar eventually went to them during the 4.0 build cycle at some point. I would hate to have to throw out the new composite gaskets and spend another couple hundred to by the 4.2 gaskets on top. Would love if I could find it as a kit.

so you are doing a head gasket job as we speak... at least the xjr has a bit more room to work.. I am looking at the location of some of the valve cover bolts and scratching my head on the best way to get on them as they are blocked by the strut towers and the back of the supercharger and throttle body are supposedly tough to deal with.

I have found the timing kit I need on eBay as well as the harmonic balancer tool.. but you think a standard puller borrowed from advance or auto zone should work? most people have been telling my to use the starter motor against a breaker bar to loosen the bolt, I am just wondering how to counter hold it to get 300ft/lbs on it to tighten it back up?

 

The indy said you can re use your old bolts just fine.
The dampener is held with a chain wrench-cheap tool.
Do not worry about the newer gaskets, just put them on after the block is shiny smooth and heads cleaned/checked/milled at the machine shop.


He sais our jaguars are very easy compared to Mercedes Benz, corvettes ,Lamborghini porches and Maserati !

 

thanks again..

I will probably use new bolts since less than 80 bucks for a new set seems like false economy after all the labor involved not to mention possibly snapping one god forbid!!

I might just get the balancer tool as well.. found one for a reasonable price... might make things easier and I dont have a chain wrench.. just a strap wrench that won't work...

how do you prefer to prep the aluminum block.. plastic scraper and chemicals? what chemicals do you prefer.. I have been told not to try anything mechanical as it will likely not be true and lead to failure again..

 

The manual says that the bolts can be reused once and should be marked to indicate that they have but who really knows if that was done? I would buy new.
All the advice I have seen from the techs and gurus advises that the newer MLS gaket should be used to replace the composite item.

 

My friend, do not be afraid of this job. Most of the old gasket will come off ,by itself as one piece. A red shop rag with mineral spirits will remove the deposits. The hardest part of the job, is the simple stuff supercharger and intake removal.

 

aode06.. thanks for the vote of confidence .. I would feel better if I had a more complete or easier to use reference than JTIS and a local source of help... but I am hoping if I go slow and hopefully dont get burned with a warped block deck.. it should go ok.. the car only has 43k on her and there is almost no rust so I am hoping most fasteners are not going to fight me too bad...

 

There's only one way to find out. Your worrying too much about things that may never happen.

 

haha norri.. very true... I do have a 'abundance of caution' that is usually unfounded AFTER I have finished a project..

I use to fly jets in the air force and having a healthy amount of caution was a good way to stay alive to retirement !! hehe

 

My indy says, he has been doing these engines very long time, never found a warped head or block. JTIS makes things look difficult, once the exhaust, radiator,intake,supercharger and condenser out the way, its all play time ! Indy said, that will take a day, the rest is straight forward,make sure you have a 3/8" socket swivel and long 3/8 socket set for exhaust bolts/studs at top.

 

does the radiator and AC stuff have to come off on an XKR... I didnt see that in JTIS..just the fan pack.. I thought I could work around it... it even says to just put the hood up in maintenance position vs taking it off.. although I think it would be far easier off.. problem is I was hoping to keep this car somewhat show and collectible condition and taking off the hood will definitely leave marks upon removal as all the hardware is painted... uhrghh...

nothings easy!!!

 

use masking tape on the edges of hood and fender. Repaint the hardware if you want.

 

Absolutely it has to all come out. Even with my 98' XJR it's the same story. I couldn't imagine doing all that with the hood and rad/cond/fans assembly in the way. It's a little more possible on the non S/C'd cars because of the much lower profile harmonic balancer to move forward towards the radiator though. Besides, my back wouldn't be able to handle all the contorting you have to do to reset all the chains. It's hurts even thinking about that.

 

Try with it in place first

 

I have, It was back breaking. I didn't have a slim enough puller for the harmonic balancer so I just had to pull the rad/cond/fans out. Still can't imagine reassembling the chains properly without looking straight at it vs leaning over a fender.