'03 XKR Fuel Filter
#1
'03 XKR Fuel Filter
All references I've found show the filter for my car as having threaded ends, and I bought one.
But when I reach under the car, I swear the filter feels like it has bayonet fittings.
Is that possible? If it is, then "what" would I order to get the right filter?
I hate putting the car on the lift until everything is sorted out and I'm confident that I can complete all scheduled work.
Thanks guys,
Ciao - Jim M
But when I reach under the car, I swear the filter feels like it has bayonet fittings.
Is that possible? If it is, then "what" would I order to get the right filter?
I hate putting the car on the lift until everything is sorted out and I'm confident that I can complete all scheduled work.
Thanks guys,
Ciao - Jim M
#2
#5
#6
Hey scardini1 I may have great news for you! Having gone through a fuel pump replacement in my 2003 XKR coupe a little over a year ago - If you find your 4.2L KR has the FOMOCO slip-on style filter like mine did, I have an affordable EXACT replacement for you.
I doesn't show up in ANY parts book as a replacement but I assure you that it is 100% the same as the $80.00 Jaguar OEM part (sans Leaper logo and Jag part number) It took me hours of measuring and internet scouring to find the right one, but now you wont have to!
Purolator PN#F65217 ($10.99 at Advance AutoParts)
You will need the special release tool to unlock the press-on fittings - but those are cheap.
Best of Luck to ya!
I doesn't show up in ANY parts book as a replacement but I assure you that it is 100% the same as the $80.00 Jaguar OEM part (sans Leaper logo and Jag part number) It took me hours of measuring and internet scouring to find the right one, but now you wont have to!
Purolator PN#F65217 ($10.99 at Advance AutoParts)
You will need the special release tool to unlock the press-on fittings - but those are cheap.
Best of Luck to ya!
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#7
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Orthodixie (05-02-2018)
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#9
Graham is correct, I had forgot that the connecter at the filter was the "quick connect" and not the kind that require "the tool." They are a bit testy to undo, but push reeaaal hard on the release and kinda pull back and forth - the line will suddenly pull loose.
The parts store catalogs (as of a year ago) are ALL phucked up! None I could find seem to have the correct fuel system components - they all listed the '03 having twin pumps (like the earlier XKRs) and the filters listed ran the gamut of styles... EVERY ONE WAS WRONG!
But anyhoo, the filter I listed mounts correctly and clicks right onto the fuel lines.
And yeah, Jim, my wife said go ahead and give you her digits:
555-42KK
She said if you happen to have a 2012 Porsche 911 TurboS coupe in Triple black - like your XKR, give her a call!
My motto: High maintenance women... Like a Ferrari, Porsche or Jaguar, they require a lot of work - but they give MORE in return!
Peace,
The parts store catalogs (as of a year ago) are ALL phucked up! None I could find seem to have the correct fuel system components - they all listed the '03 having twin pumps (like the earlier XKRs) and the filters listed ran the gamut of styles... EVERY ONE WAS WRONG!
But anyhoo, the filter I listed mounts correctly and clicks right onto the fuel lines.
And yeah, Jim, my wife said go ahead and give you her digits:
555-42KK
She said if you happen to have a 2012 Porsche 911 TurboS coupe in Triple black - like your XKR, give her a call!
My motto: High maintenance women... Like a Ferrari, Porsche or Jaguar, they require a lot of work - but they give MORE in return!
Peace,
#11
Fuel Filter: NOW WHAT?!
OK. Christmas is over - time to get back to work. Put Kitty on the lift and finally get to the filter. Problem is, it's not the one that was last recommended. If you look at the first photo the filter in the center is the one recommended (its box to its left. It has the bayonet fittings. The second photo is my installed filter (with the quick release connections).
Am I supposed to cut the plastic bayonet fittings off the filter I bought or is there yet "another" filter (the filter on the right is what all the auto parts stores list) that I'm supposed to find?
Also: I can barely get to the filter (heat shield & suspension), so I can't maneuver around it well. Is there a trick to releasing the quick release fittings easily?
One more thing: What Brain Surgeon put "that" heat shield in there?! (see third photo) Is there away to maneuver that thing out of the way without removing the exhaust system and differential? I really do not want to take the dremel out! ...... but I will (cringe).
Thanks Guys - Jim M
Am I supposed to cut the plastic bayonet fittings off the filter I bought or is there yet "another" filter (the filter on the right is what all the auto parts stores list) that I'm supposed to find?
Also: I can barely get to the filter (heat shield & suspension), so I can't maneuver around it well. Is there a trick to releasing the quick release fittings easily?
One more thing: What Brain Surgeon put "that" heat shield in there?! (see third photo) Is there away to maneuver that thing out of the way without removing the exhaust system and differential? I really do not want to take the dremel out! ...... but I will (cringe).
Thanks Guys - Jim M
Last edited by scardini1; 01-05-2013 at 06:10 PM.
#12
Yup! Looks exactly like the filter that was on my 2003 XKR.
Oh, by the way, I went into my shop and looked at my original Jag sourced PN# 1 X43 9155 AA filter and it too, looks exactly the same as the one you have...
Just pry those plastic clips off and push the fittings on.
Trick? Well, its kinda hard to describe, just kinda' push the tangs on the side of the fitting and pull at the same time you wiggle it in and out - and it will eventually pull off... See? My description doesn't help huh?
As for the friggin' heat shield, I bent the sh*t of of it to make room to work and then bent it back! They don't build these cars to be easy to work on do they?
Oh, by the way, I went into my shop and looked at my original Jag sourced PN# 1 X43 9155 AA filter and it too, looks exactly the same as the one you have...
Just pry those plastic clips off and push the fittings on.
Trick? Well, its kinda hard to describe, just kinda' push the tangs on the side of the fitting and pull at the same time you wiggle it in and out - and it will eventually pull off... See? My description doesn't help huh?
As for the friggin' heat shield, I bent the sh*t of of it to make room to work and then bent it back! They don't build these cars to be easy to work on do they?
Last edited by maxwdg; 01-07-2013 at 01:25 AM.
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scardini1 (01-07-2013)
#13
Hi Barry!
Yet once again, you (and your wife - ) have come to my rescue.
That's exactly what I needed to hear. I didn't want to go through the whole process risking that I'd break something and then only to find that I'd have to do it all over again with a different filter. And even if bending the crap out the heat isn't really what I'd prefer doing, as long as there isn't a better way - I'm OK with distasteful options, as long as I "have" options!
Well, back it goes onto the lift next weekend. According to the maintenance records this is the original (110,000 mi) filter. I've never left one in that long on my own. Just out of curiosity, I'm going to let the old one dry out and then cut it open to see how much crud has actually built up. If the results are interesting (or terrifying) I'll update the thread.
Thanks again! - Jim
Yet once again, you (and your wife - ) have come to my rescue.
That's exactly what I needed to hear. I didn't want to go through the whole process risking that I'd break something and then only to find that I'd have to do it all over again with a different filter. And even if bending the crap out the heat isn't really what I'd prefer doing, as long as there isn't a better way - I'm OK with distasteful options, as long as I "have" options!
Well, back it goes onto the lift next weekend. According to the maintenance records this is the original (110,000 mi) filter. I've never left one in that long on my own. Just out of curiosity, I'm going to let the old one dry out and then cut it open to see how much crud has actually built up. If the results are interesting (or terrifying) I'll update the thread.
Thanks again! - Jim
Last edited by scardini1; 01-07-2013 at 05:25 PM.
#14
That's what I did (cut my original Jag filter open) when I was trying to diagnose what turned out to be a dead fuel pump. My car had about 83,000 miles on it and the filter was pretty much perfectly clean inside. Imagine my surprise when I found out that Jaguar wanted 75 bucks for a $10 filter! Ahhhhhhhhhh ! Boy was I mad at myself! That's precisely why I was bound and determined to find a low cost replacement - to help me feel better.
#15
#16
Filter finally replaced. It was a PITA, but in the end it went just as MAXWDG said it would.
In addition to Purolator PN#F65217, my cross reference also turned up numbers FF677 / G6340 at Autozone (see my other photo). Yes: just pry off the plastic tabs and it's an exact fit. By the way, although on the side of the box it says "Luber Finer" (who the Hell are THEY?), on the bottom of the box it says "Champion Laboratories". A little research has lead me to believe this is a perfectly good filter. And to give you even more confidence: along with the word "Jaguar", the original filter also had written on it "Made in Poland". Poland has become a new source of quality auto parts! (Really?)
The filter is hidden beneath the heat/sound shield, inboard of the left tire and vertically oriented. The shield cannot be removed - it winds around and in between all the suspension/exhaust components and the sub-frame. All you can do is remove three 10mm retaining nuts and then just bend the crap out of the shield. Don't worry too much - it goes back perfectly afterward.
NOTE: Release the fuel connections before you unbolt the filter mount. Otherwise it will be very difficult to apply the force necessary to spring them free.
If you look closely at my photo of the old filter (still installed), and study the connector, you'll note a slightly lighter shade of plastic on the right side. That lighter piece is the release button. When dirty you might not see them, but if you wipe down the connectors they will be come obvious. The upper connector's button faces the passenger side of the car; the lower button faces aft. I found that it was easier to push the button if I first wriggled the connector until it twisted free of the filter pipe. Once I was able to depress the button at all, it wasn't long before the connector pulled free.
NOTE: Release the upper connector first, THEN the lower connector. I did the reverse, and the filter just kept dribbling trapped fuel on me (until it was finally empty) if you do the upper first, the filter will then empty completely after you release the lower.
I am lucky enough to have lifts available. If I had to do this on the ground it would have been a bit more difficult because of all the odd angles I had to maneuver my arms into. It would still be possible though, and although this replacement is a pain it still doesn't take too long. Even with the time it takes to figure where everything is and you're going to get to them, it shouldn't be more than a couple of hours at most.
My thanks to all who helped me here. (and MAXWDG's wife of course!)
In addition to Purolator PN#F65217, my cross reference also turned up numbers FF677 / G6340 at Autozone (see my other photo). Yes: just pry off the plastic tabs and it's an exact fit. By the way, although on the side of the box it says "Luber Finer" (who the Hell are THEY?), on the bottom of the box it says "Champion Laboratories". A little research has lead me to believe this is a perfectly good filter. And to give you even more confidence: along with the word "Jaguar", the original filter also had written on it "Made in Poland". Poland has become a new source of quality auto parts! (Really?)
The filter is hidden beneath the heat/sound shield, inboard of the left tire and vertically oriented. The shield cannot be removed - it winds around and in between all the suspension/exhaust components and the sub-frame. All you can do is remove three 10mm retaining nuts and then just bend the crap out of the shield. Don't worry too much - it goes back perfectly afterward.
NOTE: Release the fuel connections before you unbolt the filter mount. Otherwise it will be very difficult to apply the force necessary to spring them free.
If you look closely at my photo of the old filter (still installed), and study the connector, you'll note a slightly lighter shade of plastic on the right side. That lighter piece is the release button. When dirty you might not see them, but if you wipe down the connectors they will be come obvious. The upper connector's button faces the passenger side of the car; the lower button faces aft. I found that it was easier to push the button if I first wriggled the connector until it twisted free of the filter pipe. Once I was able to depress the button at all, it wasn't long before the connector pulled free.
NOTE: Release the upper connector first, THEN the lower connector. I did the reverse, and the filter just kept dribbling trapped fuel on me (until it was finally empty) if you do the upper first, the filter will then empty completely after you release the lower.
I am lucky enough to have lifts available. If I had to do this on the ground it would have been a bit more difficult because of all the odd angles I had to maneuver my arms into. It would still be possible though, and although this replacement is a pain it still doesn't take too long. Even with the time it takes to figure where everything is and you're going to get to them, it shouldn't be more than a couple of hours at most.
My thanks to all who helped me here. (and MAXWDG's wife of course!)
Last edited by scardini1; 05-13-2013 at 09:50 PM.
#18
Just changed the fuel filter on my 2003! Did it on the ground (no hoist) and those tangs are very hard to see in part due to being very small and dirty and also because they were so close to my face I had trouble focusing my eyes on them.
I used a small flathead screwdriver to push in the tangs, the diagram above makes them look like buttons but mine were flush with the fittings.
Thanks for the Puralator PN to cross-reference from, I used a Fram filter (PN G7143) and finished off with a tank full of 94 octane! Old filter was a genuine Jag part (made in UK), no idea how old it was.
I used a small flathead screwdriver to push in the tangs, the diagram above makes them look like buttons but mine were flush with the fittings.
Thanks for the Puralator PN to cross-reference from, I used a Fram filter (PN G7143) and finished off with a tank full of 94 octane! Old filter was a genuine Jag part (made in UK), no idea how old it was.
#19
Way to go Dave. I do understand that "focusing" thing when you're under the car. Luckily, by the time you get to my age, you can do auto maintenance by brail - lol. I do so much these days with my eyes closed, that I take it for granted that my buddies and I just know how things "feel" now.
Glad to help. This is a great forum.
Glad to help. This is a great forum.
#20
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