While removing the alternator the plastic plug disintegrated into dust, have ordered a new pigtail but cannot sort out the pinout.
I know it's a 3pin connector, but there were only two wires running into the old connector
Does anyone know the pinout order for the plug?
I found this diagram in one of the documents posted in this forum. The photo is mine form the car..
The two wires from the disintegrated plug were black and white, which is which?

sorry for the fuzzy pic.. it's bloody hot here and trying to hold up the hood with my head and take a picture made it shaky LOL

 

S97_XK8.pdf electrical guide shows the pins and colors to the Generator/Regulator assy.(figure 3.1)

PI50 connector (Petrol Injection connector 50) pin 1 is SW (slate/white)

PI50 connector (Petrol Injection connector 50) pin 2 is WK (white/pink)

 

^^
What he said, although Jaguar does seem to change them for each MY

Annoyingly,there is also a discrepancy between JTIS (where your connector image comes from) and the Electrical Guide over pin numbering (1 & 3 swopped).

It looks like someone has already replaced the pigtail - the blue coloured joins - what colours are on the other side of those joins?

If all else fails, check with a multimeter which wire carries the ignition-switched 12V, and attach that to pin #2. The other goes to pin #3.

 

Thanks mate, guess I'm gonna have to hook up that new battery in order to do the 12V test!!
Hopefully the new plug pigtail will arrive tomorrow and I can get everything back in the car.
Planning to add a few inches to the connector wires so it's easier to get the alternator out without having to unplug

 

Maury: @motorcarman above is the gent in Texas (x308 list) I mentioned to you on the phone. Another genius on these lists among many is @Addicted2boost

@motorcarman @Addicted2boost The gent who has posted his problem — (replaced alternator after an apparent failure, one connection crumbled and he got a new fitting but the alternator is apparently not working) — is an old friend who was foolish enough to take my advice that he’d like an X100. It’s so far been reasonably good to him. I am no automotive or electrical genius, but I suggested he pull the remanned alternator and have it tested because it’s not beyond the realm of possibility the replacement was a dud.

If either of you fine fellows can offer any further advice to Maury he, and I, would be grateful. I will now return to being paranoid about my X308.

Cheers.

Eliot

 

I will NOT buy a reman alt for a Jaguar from a 'parts store'. (my chevy truck is a different story)

I would rather get a salvage part (good-used) than a parts store reman.
The rebuilder I trade with uses Toyota (Denso) parts and I get her to replace worn/broken parts.

Too many stories about "THE ALTERNATOR CHARGES FINE BUT THE INSTPK LIGHT WILL NOT GO OUT".

A cheap 'incorrect' (non Denso) regulator seems to be the problem.
The parts store reman will CHARGE the battery but the charge fault light remains illuminated.

Just something I learned over the years.

 

@motorcarman
Bob, those early XK’s had a suppression module. They had a positive and ground wire that needed to be attached to the back of the alternator. Do you know if that suppression module(S.M.) plays an important role of the functionality of the alternator? Meaning will it allow the alternator to put out the typical 14.3ish volts if the S.M. of functioning correctly? The reason I ask is because it’s been many years since I had to replace an alternator on one of the early ones and I cannot recall if I’ve had an issue with those.

Bob, do you have a part number for that Denso/Toyota voltage regulator? I could use a few.

@SkiBump You also need to check this out to make sure all your connections are clean and tight.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk8-xkr-x100-17/electrical-issue-%92s-becoming-more-common-282021/

 

@motorcarman @addicted2boost
Thanks guys.
Info to date:
car starts and runs, but red light on voltmeter lit up. "Battery not charging" message on dash.
With car running only getting ambient(12.6v) battery voltage on a meter, so it doesn't appear to be charging.
I noticed the talk of suppressors in other threads and looked for one but can't find it.
Will try to get a voltmeter up to the alternator tomorrow. Have to put the car back up on stands again.
Tried to do that today with the airbox off so I get to it, but the car was running like *** at really low rpms without the airbox on.

 

The suppression module will be roughly the size of a 12oz beer can, it’s black, and I believe it’s underneath the lower air filter box in front of the alternator. I think it has a red 2 pin connector on it. It’s been years so please forgive me if the description and location are a little bit off. If nothing is there in that area, then someone took it off. 🤷‍♂️ Make sure the ground strap on the bottom right hand side of the transmission bell housing is in good shape. When the engine is running, voltmeter on back of alternator power lug and ground it on the body of the alternator, note the voltmeter voltage. Then take the negative meter clamp and put it on a good body ground. If the voltmeter reads exactly the same, the ground strap on the bell housing is good. If there’s roughly a .5v difference on the meter when you relocate the meter ground from alternator body to the actual body of the car, then the ground cable is no good at the bell housing. This also applies to the battery cables and the mega fuses in the trunk/boot. Even if you don’t find a difference in voltage trying different ground points, at least we ruled those out and it’s quite likely the alternator is still the issue. I’m assuming you got those 2 wires back inside the connector of the alternator?

 

Just disconnect the suppression module to see if it causing any issues. It is there to protect electronic modules but if it is defective, I would remove it from the system until I could figure out why or get a replacement.

 

there is no suppressor on my car..