XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

1997 XK8 ODD Crankshaft Pulley?

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  #21  
Old 04-21-2017, 03:39 PM
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I have replaced the entire distribution this week to a 2001 XK8 and I can say that what more problems caused me was to remove the pulley from the crankshaft. To unscrew the pulley bolt, first block the crankshaft on the flywheel by the register area where the r.p.m.
 
  #22  
Old 04-21-2017, 03:45 PM
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The car has 65000 km. And already showed cracks in the tensioners and especially in the guides of the primary chains.



 
  #23  
Old 04-21-2017, 04:45 PM
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Regarding locking the damper to the crankshaft using the split pin washer: It seems there are several ways to do this. I imagine the Jaguar dedicated tool that BobRoy used will allow you to compress the washer before tightening the damper. However, I went my own way with a tool borrowed from a local autoparts place.

The first thing I did was check out Youtube. I did not find this procedure for the Jaguar, but used the same procedure as for a small block Chevy. Essentially, I used the tool to compress the damper and washer assembly in place before tightening down on the big center bolt. To hold the dampener in place, I bolted a metal strap between the 8mm (or is it 10mm...I just went into my junk drawer to find the bolt) threads in the damper and the large bolt that holds the passenger side tensioner wheel. If I had to do it again, I would also put a strap between the dampener and the spring tensioner on the driver's side, simply because the engine moved just a schosh counterclockwise when I removed the compression tool. No harm, no foul, but no point in risking your main crank bearings when you go the wrong way....Once the damper and washer were compressed as far as they would go, I removed the tool that compresses the assembly. At this point, I tightened the large center bolt. A service bulletin for this job says to crank the bolt to 59 ft. lbs. (best to confirm that) and then turn an additional 80 degrees. This should result in a final torque value of 236-295 ft. lbs...Because I had an issue with lining up the serpentine belt (which it turned out was not the result of how tight I had cranked the bolt) I went well beyond the service bulletin recommendation. I'll leave recommendations on how tight to go to other members of the forum, but I can tell you that my torque wrench clicked at its max of 150 ft. lbs., and I went a little past that. I suspect pre-compressing the assembly changed the recommended torque values.

FYI, I started my project because my original damper fell off (not my doing). I am reasonably certain the above procedure has the damper properly in place.

If anyone disagrees with this procedure, which admittedly involved a bit of free form wrenching, I will not be offended as I am not a professional mechanic.




 

Last edited by Truck Graphics; 04-21-2017 at 04:49 PM.
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  #24  
Old 04-21-2017, 05:28 PM
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Next to where the crankshaft sensor is mounted there is an inspection window by which you can screw a screw of metric 10 to several threaded holes that has the own flywheel, long enough to protrude from the inspection window and mounting a Bushing in the middle so that the screw can stop by tightening the bushing and forms a solid assembly to stop the casing housing of the torque converter and lock the crankshaft and thus release the screw of the pulley.
 

Last edited by Javier Mena; 04-21-2017 at 05:32 PM.
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  #25  
Old 04-21-2017, 08:37 PM
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Thanks to all who replied to my questions and fears. The job is done!
Using a pry bar to lock up the torque converter is no-where near as scary as it sounds. Used that method to tighten up to 230 ft/lbs - then fitted the proper locking tool to the Damper pulley and tightened up to the correct 270 ft/lbs - no problem.

For any US members planning this job on an XK8/XJ8 - I would highly recommend Christopher's Foreign Car Parts on Ebay



They do a kit that has everything included for the job - $385 - which I think is excellent value. Very fast delivery and well package and LABELLED parts and Gaskets along with a really good guide on how to do the job thrown in.

Two things: There are two different bottom timing cover gaskets - make sure you use the right one. There are also two sets of Gaskets for VVT solenoids, I puzzled for some time where to put the second pair? In the bin was the answer.

I will also be putting the two toolkits I bought for this job in the classified section for any member who would like to hire them for $50 + shipping for a month. I save you save.

Thanks again to everyone.

Gareth
 
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  #26  
Old 04-21-2017, 08:51 PM
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Congratulations, glad you got it going
 

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