1998 XJ8 4.0 Valve Clatter
#1
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I just purchased a 1998 XJ8 4.0 that had been in storage since 2008. After replacing the fuel pump it runs pretty well. There is a valve noise ( not tensioner ) for about the first 20 min on cold start that disappears as the engine reaches full operatiing tempurature. Any clues as to how to cure this?
#2
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I just purchased a 1998 XJ8 4.0 that had been in storage since 2008. After replacing the fuel pump it runs pretty well. There is a valve noise ( not tensioner ) for about the first 20 min on cold start that disappears as the engine reaches full operatiing tempurature. Any clues as to how to cure this?
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That's a long time to take to get up to temperature on a low volume cooling system.
Presumably after such a lengthy storage you changed the oil and fitted a new (Jaguar) filter with non-return valve?
Valve noise which is not due to chains or tensioners could be valve clearances or slight wear on the stems. Clearances are set with shims of which there's a vast range of thicknesses available. Stem or guide wear can only be fixed by replacement.
Graham
#3
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#4
#5
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I'm a newbie here and don't know the 4.0 or 4.2 well yet. But, it could be tappet noise from them sitting so long. I would change out the oil with the proper grade synthetic if you haven't yet. Substitute one quart of oil with "Marvel Mystery Oil"-- it is a good synthetic too and will help free up top cylinder lubrication. Old school right there... MC
#7
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Marvel Mystery Oil is just a bunch of solvents. Period.
http://www.turtlewax.com/upload/msdp/MM010-1-England$2ada558ab2a17bd0.pdf
Code:
================================================== ========================= Ingredients/Identity Information ================================================== ========================= Proprietary: NO Ingredient: KEROSENE (PETROLEUM), HYDROTREATED; (MINERAL SPIRITS) Ingredient Sequence Number: 01 Percent: 30 NIOSH (RTECS) Number: OA5504000 CAS Number: 64742-47-8 OSHA PEL: 5 MG/M3 (MFR) ACGIH TLV: 5 MG/M3 (MFR) ------------------------------------- Proprietary: NO Ingredient: SOLV REFINED HEAVY NAPHTHENIC DISTILLATE,PETROLEUM; (NAPTHENIC BASE OIL DISTILLATE) CAS NO 64742-63-8, 64741-96-4. Ingredient Sequence Number: 02 NIOSH (RTECS) Number: PY8040000 CAS Number: 64741-96-4 OSHA PEL: 5 MG/M3 (MFR) ACGIH TLV: 5 MG/M3 (MFR) ... o-Dichlorobenzene (1,2-Dichlorobenzene (ortho-dichlorobenzene)) 0 -5%95-50-1 Xn;R22 Xi;R36/37/38 N;R50/53 202-425-9 Fine White Mineral Oil 70 -100%64742-52-5 265-155-0 Mineral Spirits 20 -30%8052-41-3 Xn;R20/22 Xi;R36 R10
All they would be doing is dumping kerosene and naptha into their oil. The manufacturer recommends using long term on every oil change. That would mean running the engine long term diluted 4:1 with solvent. Not good.
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Italianguy63 (03-03-2012)
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#8
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You are right plums. I apologize for my assumption. MMO is something I have used in cases like this over my lifetime with no ill effects. I do NOT use it at every oil change, but, I have used it on gunked up engines with good results. I have also seen where people would substitute 1 quart with ATF to free things up. Also, the Jag engine has a capacity of like 8 quarts of oil, so the dilution would be 7:1 not 4:1.
The point I was trying to make was the top-end assemblies could be gooed up or binding due to sitting for a long period. A procedure like this could be helpful. The poster did not specify if they had changed the crankcase oil either, and it would be ideal to be sure the correct weight is installed as a different weight or type (non-synthetic heavier weight) could be aggrevating the problem.
Yes. The Jag engine is a complex one, and a good one. And, systems like the VVT could too be suspect.
I again apologize for my faux-pas, but still stand by my suggestion. And, thanks for the information.
MC
The point I was trying to make was the top-end assemblies could be gooed up or binding due to sitting for a long period. A procedure like this could be helpful. The poster did not specify if they had changed the crankcase oil either, and it would be ideal to be sure the correct weight is installed as a different weight or type (non-synthetic heavier weight) could be aggrevating the problem.
Yes. The Jag engine is a complex one, and a good one. And, systems like the VVT could too be suspect.
I again apologize for my faux-pas, but still stand by my suggestion. And, thanks for the information.
MC
Last edited by Italianguy63; 03-03-2012 at 02:53 AM.
#9
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No probs.
The real quibble is with the vendor recommending that the stuff be used permanently, and at 4:1. So people are going to run out, read the label, buy a case and use it long term.
There are multiple suggestions round the forum where MMO or similar ought to be used more like a flush with a quick reversion to regular oil after a few miles.
Brutal and others like a quart of ATF because of its high detergency. Still with a quick drain. And that sounds like a better idea since it at least has lubricating qualities and is made by oil companies. Unlike MMO which is now owned by ... Turtle Wax.
Oil has detergents in it and just doing multiple quick oil changes can do the job at much less risk.
The real quibble is with the vendor recommending that the stuff be used permanently, and at 4:1. So people are going to run out, read the label, buy a case and use it long term.
There are multiple suggestions round the forum where MMO or similar ought to be used more like a flush with a quick reversion to regular oil after a few miles.
Brutal and others like a quart of ATF because of its high detergency. Still with a quick drain. And that sounds like a better idea since it at least has lubricating qualities and is made by oil companies. Unlike MMO which is now owned by ... Turtle Wax.
Oil has detergents in it and just doing multiple quick oil changes can do the job at much less risk.
#10
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Agreed. I still think MMO is a safe product. I work around diesels and if you had any idea of the fuel dilutuion that takes place in the crankcase oil, you would shudder. BTW, in a standard crankcase (5 quarts), I would only reccomend a pint.
Hmmm.... I could go for a pint right now, although it is only 4 am in the Colonies.
Hmmm.... I could go for a pint right now, although it is only 4 am in the Colonies.
#11
#13
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Thanks for your responses and idea's. "nerves of steel".....not.... more like....inexperience....but anyway the noise does eventually stop and you can tell it's definitely in the valves because it quiets itself one valve at a time until it's silent. Yes it does cease when the engine is revved to 2000, yes I have changed the oil (to 10W40).... maybe I'll try some ATF run it up a bit and then change oil again. I was also thinking that simply putting some miles on it might help.
Update: Maybe it's not the Valves at all? I remember looking down into the primary chain area ( on the passenger side ) and it WAS just a little bit loose. Could that be making all this noise? And why does it quiet itself after some driving?
I once knew a guy (district court judge, sooo not a stupid man) who poured orange juice into the transmission of his vintage Mercedes upon discovering it was low and slipping (in the middle of the desert)
As I remember he made it to his destination (he had to pee in there too after he ran out of juice). He had the tranny leak fixed, flushed and filtered and it still runs fine. )( OIL is OIL....lol )(
Update: Maybe it's not the Valves at all? I remember looking down into the primary chain area ( on the passenger side ) and it WAS just a little bit loose. Could that be making all this noise? And why does it quiet itself after some driving?
I once knew a guy (district court judge, sooo not a stupid man) who poured orange juice into the transmission of his vintage Mercedes upon discovering it was low and slipping (in the middle of the desert)
As I remember he made it to his destination (he had to pee in there too after he ran out of juice). He had the tranny leak fixed, flushed and filtered and it still runs fine. )( OIL is OIL....lol )(
Last edited by dedelfelt; 03-05-2012 at 09:54 AM. Reason: Update
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