It did prime tight to. Now to safely back off a tooth and Ill have it done. Just hold chain up undo cam and back off 1 tooth. Any suggestions b4 I do it. Thanks

 

Oh, and this time either pop out the ignition fuse also when you crank the first time (#18 in the engine management fusebox-passenger side(right) up near the windshield) or release the pressure in the fuel line after you pull the fuse pump fuse.

 

Remove tensioner? Dont remove cam Caps? How about leave tensioner remove cam caps, Tilt cam up and back off tooth. Tensioner will hold chain up. Just needing a clearer understanding. The tensioner isn't easily removed because of the bottom being so big.
I fought that and maybe why its off a tooth.
Can't figure out how Zip strap didn't work.
Can't zip it now I don't believe.

 

The problem was not the zip tie. It probably jumped on startup when you had the tensioner installed from the wrong side, or it jumped on start up because there was some fuel in the line and began to start before the tensioner filled with oil.

I think if you remove the tensioner completely there is enough slack to move it a tooth. Yes, to get the tensioner out, you will have to remove the cam caps and tilt the cam, just like the original instructions.

 

Here is a thread that documents my changing the tensioners in my 2000 XK8 with pictures. Really wasn't a big deal. But you need to do it right and be neat and careful.

EZDriver


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-faq-52653/

 

The fuel injection fuse is actually the best because when it is out the fuel injectors themselves will not open. Therefore, the engine won't get even one drop of fuel. It won't fire at all.

For future readers, when using the zip tie method, it involves a minimum of three zip ties. One on each of the cam sprocket/chain interfaces, and one on the primary chain sprocket/chain interface. This ensures that *all* of the sprockets maintain their relationships with the respective chain. It also does not hurt to mark the relationships in case a zip tie breaks. Or, use two zip ties at each of the three locations.

 

The moral of the story. Not only take fuel pump fuse out but make sure plug wires are off. mine had enough fuel to fire without fuel pump fuse.

 

But is it good now?

 

 

Thanks to everyone. It idles pefect and sounds great. I will be taking her to church and baptising her with a car wash. Should I update my triple A towing insurance. think she'll be OK. I thought the torque was abit light on the cam caps and checked again online and the torque is right. No oil leaks so far with the alternative Felcro gasket set. I'll be watching that. I torque the valve cover very carefully in order evenly. I will document what I did in glove box handbook and save the next guy from guessing. Thanks again. Ill put a picture of my car later. She's a good looking gal.

 

 

My card running as I speak very good. I do notice something that was apparent before. The car does not like to be in overdrive on hills under 55 mph. It does want to start serging. I thought the new plugs that I put in would stop this surging problem in overdrive. I find driving in 4 on hills under 55 is better. What causes surging at lower RPMs???

 

My 1998 Jaguar XK8 98000 miles. Brand new Tensioners.

 

lookin good ollison!

 

I have a1998 Xk8 Convertible (150,000 miles). I have this sound when I start the engine (see video or listen to sound). Ive read alot about tensioners on here and was wondering if this is a tensioner sound or value lifters. After it warmers up in 2-3 minutes its fine, quiet,smooth all that. Dont know what to do next execpt take it to a mechanic, Just wonderng if any expert ears out there coud give me a heads up - Thanks


VIDEO0013.mp4 video by rnrmusic - Photobucket

 

Nobody is going to be able to say for sure, based on the sound, what it is.

If it is the worst thing it could be, tensioners, your engine is in dire peril. And if it is that, and you get unlucky and crash a piston into a valve, the cost of the repair could easily exceed the value of the car.

Please, preferably before the next start, have someone look for tensioner trouble.

If this sounds over the top, I promise you it's based on more than one reported blow up, more than one totaled car.

Good luck.

 

I have had this same noise for the last 4 years and 25k miles. It sounds like it’s coming from the super charger but when I took it to the dealer they disconnected the SC and the noise was still there. When they lifted the car it sounded like it was coming from under the engine too. So it’s a hard one to pin point. The other problem was it would go away in about 5 min and wouldn't come back unless the engine was cold again. They tried a couple of times to pin point it without success. In the old days we would just say it’s a sticky lifter. I’m not sure if this engine has something of the same but I know a lot of overhead cam engines do.

Please let us know if anyone has figured this out. Maybe a can of Reslone or Seafoam will do the trick?

As far as timing chains go, I just had ALL of mine replace and it didn’t fix this noise. It did fix the rattling I was having after the engine warmed up that had just started before the timing chains were replacement. But alas the cold start knocking is still there.

 

Here are two links to my noises. The first one is the timing chain noise which just started and was fixed so after by replacing ALL the timing chains at the dealer $3,300! It would only make noise when the engine was warmed up at idle. Cold or above idle it went away.
http://s1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj593/guzzisvt/?action=view&current=Jagknock002.mp4

The second one is the knock that has been around for 4 years and 25k miles. It only makes noise when the engine is cold for about 5 min's and sounds worse when in gear (engine rpm's lowered). The dealer couldn't figure it out, so no $$ for him.
http://s1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj593/guzzisvt/?action=view&current=Jagnoise.mp4

 

Thanks Guys. Taking it to the mechanic on monday. Talked with him today. Said it could be alot of things. wont know till he cold starts it. Could be oil pump, Cam bearings, Tensioner, Value timing thing. He put alot of fear in me today.

 

Bill, that would drive me nuts! The 2nd knock surely can be pinpointed - its loud enough for goodness sake.