1. Does the ALP/AI-AUX device do the trick?
2. Or do you HAVE to do the "butcher your cdchanger" approach?
3. Or does the "casette" solution work without much quality loss? http://www.amazon.com/Walkman-Connec...5548296&sr=8-1

With the aux-in in place, I'll add a iphone dock with a 12V lighter adapter and mini-jack out to hook things up
Update: I want to avoid FM transmitters due to sound quality loss

 

This link will show you how I did 99 xk8 http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairIpodInstall.htm However it seems that you have other options that can be found on this forum. As things change from day to day you may want to check and see if they have any new equipment that might work http://www.discountcarstereo.com/default.aspx Tell them about your car and they will send you what they have.

 

Oh yeah, I especially want to avoid FM transmitters to get the best possible sound quality -but the one you installed is supposedly a bit better?

 

The ALP/AI-AUX should work.. I just installed it in my car. With premium sound it must go between the power amp and whatever device plugs intio the AI-NET port on the power amp (nav or CD player, depending on your options).

I strongly recommend using it with the PAC LD-10 preamp. This will allow you to fine tune the trigger levels to your source.

A good cassette adapter is still not as good as a direct connect to the AI-NET (and there are lots of bad ones). If you go the FM route, use a modulator that wires into the antenna (not broadcast) for best results...but as you know, this too is still not as good as a direct connect.

 

Cool, well, if the ALP/AI-AUX works then it's a no brainer!

About that preamp, do you get adequate sound levels without it?

 

Sources vary in their line level signal strength. If their is not enough signal, on soft music passages, you will find the AI-AUX will not trigger and revert back to the radio. I had this problem with my XM radio.

Also, a strong line-level signal (short of clipping level, of course) will give you the best quality sound.

If you want to test it out first without the preamp, see if at max volume on your source soft music does not drop out.

Another test is to see if you can drive the signal to clipping (distortion will be obvious) just using the volume on your MP3 player, satellite radio or whatever your aux source is. That will tell you that you probably have enough volume 'headroom' already to adjust the volume high enough if you need to to avoid drop outs.

So it is up to you if you want to try it first without the preamp...but the preamp is inexpensive and not difficult to install if you want to just get it in as insurance.

 

Makes sense. Don't think the iphone dock connector line-out is particularly strong (as it doesn't go through the headphone amp).

So that preamp is pretty decent?

 

It seems to do the job and not add perceptable noise, it is rated at 96db S/N. When driving line level signals, it doesn't take a particularly high-end design to be decent.

Just keep in mind, when you come up with the right general setting for the preamp, you may have adjust the volume at your source to keep it below clipping depending on the material you are listening to.

If you regularly listen to classical music with an extremely wide dynamic range, I probably would advise to look at the one of the switch or relay direct wire approaches described in the forum because of the trigger threshold issue on the AI-AUX, but for most music it should be fine.

 

@ WhiteXKR in particular... but would appreciate any input/thoughts/links...

I have followed the advice in the above posts and on the forum in general about AI-Net switching after a lot of googling and searching!

I currently have a 2000 XKR with Premium Sound, with the AI/Aux switcher (http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=321) inserted into the Satnav line as suggested on this Forum. It works fine (with Radio selected on the Headunit), but the issue I am having is with it switching back at low levels (as you describe above). Now, my knowledge about this sort of thing is tiny, so I was wondering if you could explain my options...

I've tried upping the output using the Windows XP Volume mixer, and it still switches to radio static - on quiet passages of Dire Straits for example. Was wondering if using the RideRunner mixer and boosting the gain using software might help?

Failing that, I've seen your post about getting a pre-amp... The model you describe seems to be only available in the US (which I could always get from EBay I suppose, or go for something similar from the UK). Is this the best option - as I see you mention it may still not sort the passages with large dynamic ranges as it could still switch back... is there any way to keep it switched live?

I was wondering if there was a third option - putting the PC red/white phono output into a suitable cable (http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=71
- ???? or similar) in place of the current switcher-cable-satnav combo..., effectively removing the switcher from the loop and having a permanently live (unswitched) feed upon pressing Radio. Not sure if this would disable the Radio side of things or if this is at all possible - does it need to go into the Satnav unit? I'm struggling to picture the cable path as it's been a week or two since I looked at it... Think it would have to be a female phono to ?female/male? AI Net from memory or am I missing something about how the system works...

As I say, I don't really understand how AI Net operates other than I read the posts, tried the Satnav solution and it worked without cutting anything!, so am hoping you can help put me on the right path!

Cheers,

MB

 

Mistral-blue-

First off, if your source is from a Windows XP computer, goto the Windows Control Panel and find your audio card and make sure the line-out volume is set to maximum. Software will vary, so I cannot give you exact instructions.

If that still does not work, I really think the preamp solution will solve your problem and give you as close to a plug-in solution as possible (you just need to provide a power connection for the preamp). I have some more time under my belt now with the preamp, and it my experience is that once it is adjusted correctly, drop-outs really have not been a problem. This is what I still would recommend.

The cable you linked to might work (I cannot say positively) but I believe if you use it you will lose the use of all other sources (radio, CD player, and possibly nav) except for your computer.

The other alternative is fabricating a special cable with switches and/or relays to tap into the audio stream, which is described elsewhere on this forum...this will do what you want, but is a last resort given the work involved and the fact that you already invested in the AI-AUX, which is working except for the signal level issue.

 

I don't know what all the hub-bub is about. I hacked into the ai cable behind the radio when I installed the T-605. CD changer works, T-605 bluetooth and aux in work, all at the same level. No issues/degradation. I was kind of surprised, I just did it to see if it would work as I really didn't care about the cd changer. This way I didn't have to run wires back through the seat and trunk. It was just a few more screws and the radio and cable were available, since I was at the rear of the console with the T-605.

 

Agreed Beav, hacking into the AI-NET works fine, and has been discussed in other threads. Some folks prefer not to cut into their wiring, however.

Also, unless your 'hack' is switched, if you have your CD player and aux-in playing at the same time, you may run some risk of overdriving and possibly damaging the inputs - not a certainty, but a potential issue.

Since you do not use your CD player, and you are comfortable hacking, it is all a non-concern for you.

 

It would be simple enough to just install a SPST switch on the red wire (changer 'turn on' signal) to inhibit the changer's operation. If one were really concerned, install a 4PDT relay (eBay - $6.50) to split the inputs between T-605 and changer. Split the red signal wire with a 'this/that' SP switch to trigger the relay (connecting radio to T-605/whatever) and inhibit the changer or vice-versa.

Hacking the cable? Sometimes you just have to crack a few eggs. Of course you could get an old changer and hack its jack and cable into a piggyback arrangement. Or find an old XM/Sirius or BT adaptor for aftermarket Alpine radios and cut it up. The cable version is just too easy for me, to each their own... =)

 

Hi guys,

Thanks for the replies. As WhiteXKR guessed correctly, am trying to avoid hacking cables unless I really have to as a) I can return the car to standard easily and b) I've not really got the knowledge of which wires to start playing with - although I'm sure there's a guide somewhere.

The bit I'm still unsure on, is whether the Nav system still needs to be in the loop. I'm not using it as I have both some free and Garmin GPS on the carputer (one of the main reasons for installing it, due to the cr@p & out of date Jag Satnav). I'm wondering if it is removed though, if it will have the same effect as seems to be suggested for the CD player and mute the output...

AFAIK the current cabling is Nav Disc changer socket>AI Net box flying lead><AI Net box>AI Net box socket<Car lead (that would have normally gone straight in the back of the changer). Inputs being the usual white/red phonos. I guess my main question is, which way is the signal going from the lead heading to the front of the car... i.e. does the SatNav box have to be part of the system for the signal to be sent to the Head Unit/amp or could you just use a suitable lead with red/white phono>suitable gender AI Net cable, straight to the car lead?

From what I can tell, the only connectors into the Amp the two white clip connectors and the CD changer blue lead, so as I say I think the car lead must go to the HU?! Apologies if I'm getting confused, if I'm not being clear please say and I'll bite the bullet and go remove the trim and undo the bolts to take a look and take some pics at the same time - I'm probably missing something obvious!

 

Just ordered one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...ht_2250wt_1139 and am going to try it! Nothing ventured... etc!!! If it's not the right gender I'll get a male/female cable and try that too, not that expensive and if it doesn't work I'll just stick it on EBay and go back to the switcher/amp plan... will post an update once it arrives and fitted within the next couple of days.

 

Let us know the result. If it works, it is another option for people who do not want to use their CD changer. Also interested in effects if any on the nav unit.

 

Why wouldn't you be able to use CD changer? I have the PC hooked up via nav unit at the moment and the CD changer still works on CD, PC comes through on RADIO... Am I missing something (guessing something like the lead that runs forward takes everything to the head unit and then it's brought back to the amp via the white block connectors or similar)??

BTW just been out to the car and played with EVERY volume slider I could find, including the inbuilt RideRunner mixer pre-amp while playing the start of 'Money for Nothing', still no joy... however it did get me thinking that RR uses WMP9 as its player, I seem to remember there being a way to boost the gain on older versions, perhaps via a plugin... there may therefore be a software way to fix this...

Either way, I'll still try the above cable as well and see what happens...

 

Looking at the AI-Net connections the path is:
CD--AMP--NAV--Headunit

If you do not unplug the CD changer from the AMP, and plug in the cable you just purchased into the AMP, where else would you plug your cable in and not lose the connectivity of the chain?

When you added the AI-AUX you had:
CD--AMP--NAV--AI-AUX--Headunit, so the chain remained unbroken.

 

I see, I thought that might be the case (otherwise someone cleverer than me would have already posted the solution!)... some more thought required I think

Tried playing around with Media Player, but no joy on that front. Am going to try Winamp as that has inbuilt gain control/preamp setting to see if that's any help... Results shortly...

 

Here is the another way to do what you want. You have to cut and splice cables here, but they are aftermarket cables, not the car wiring:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=46489