Hello all, I am new to the forum and wanted to post a little about my issues after a few days of research.

Intro first.
Dad wanted to donate this car to his son (me) so that his grandchildren could learn how to turn a wrench. I have not worked on my own cars for about 15 years, thought it would be a fun family project. The price was right so I went for it. I borrowed a diagnostic device from a neighbor and this is what I found...

Wait not so quick...you say. All the possible solutions to my problems are already in previous threads. Ya your probably right, but I thought a combination of problems like mine might make you say hmm...I know exactly what this AP3 guys problem is. Well don't hold back feel free to give advice to this nooby, and don't worry about being too simplistic. I am the noob here.

So here goes.

P0358 Coil H
P0308 Cyl 8 misfire
P1314 Misfire Cat Damage Fault Bank 2
P1316 Misfire rate exceeds emissions
P0358 Ignition Coil H Prime and Secondary Coil H
P1111 Sys pass

It is supposed to rain tomorrow, and my boys are on spring break. I will probably start classes tomorrow on how to bloody knuckles in the garage. Wish me luck. Any and all advice is appreciated!

If you have read this far you must be really bored, go grab and adult beverage.

 

Well, these codes make this problem look much worse than it likely is.

It looks like you just may have a bad coil #8. If you swap coils 7 and 8, then clear the codes, check to see if the faults move to coil 7/I from 8/H. If they do you have confirmed the diagnosis.

The general misfire warnings are just that...the misfire causes excess emissions and can cause a cat fault if not dealt with promptly.

A new coil should fix the problem. P1111 is not a fault and will remain.

 

Do you think that will help it crank up too. It will not start, but tries to.

 

8 would be the right side firewall cyl and 7 would be one closer to front if standing in front of the car?

 

Oops, missed that little detail.

No, these codes should not prevent it from starting, just from running well.

Check for fuel pressure by depressing the schrader valve on the fuel rail. You should get a powerful squirt...if not you have no or insufficient fuel pressure.

Check for spark by removing one of the good coils and spark plug. Have someone crank the engine and see if there is spark.

If the car has not been used in a long time, my money is on a bad fuel pump.

 

On a 2000 cyl 8 would be left (US driver side) nearest firewall, and 7 is next to it. See the diagram in the sticky: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ts-data-29800/

 

If you have fuel pressure and spark the non start may be bore wash.

 

The Schrader valve Steve mentions is on the fuel rail just by the dipstick. Look for a blue cap and (with some cloth handy) press the valve as if letting down a tyre.
If your OBD reader does live data then you can read the fuel pressure with that.

 

This is true only on a (4.2L) 2002 (UK) / 2003 (US) or later model.

 

Didn't know that, thanks.
It was available on the S type from before 2000, are you sure about the XK?

 

See if this No Start information helps. If you have spark and fuel and your car is a MY 2000 I would bet cylinder wash as mentioned. Look to the bottom of this No Start to access info on Nikasil no start info.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

The 4.0 XKRs have the Valve on the Front Left, but:

The 4.0 XK8s have the Valve on the Right Rear:

 

They would, wouldn't they.

 

Since you are starting from scratch I would recommend:

1. Pull the valve covers off and check the tensioners/alignment of the cam flats- if they are metal, go to #2, if not replace them. (necessary with ANY new-to-you 1998-2003 jag)
2. Replace battery with new one if older than 6 months. (even if it SEEMS ok)
3. Buy a compression tester- test compression. If low, add a teaspoon of oil to each cylinder and check again. if it comes up, button the car up and start.
4. If no love yet, unplug and replug in the throttle body electrical plugs.
5. If STILL no love, grab an adult beverage and buckle up.
6. Begin reading about fuel pump, intake leaks, CPS, TPS.
It will be an easy fix I'll bet. It just takes a little time and patience to find the source- fortunately, this forum has info covering almost every possible situation.

The best way I have found to get my son engaged is to put a wrench in his hands. If I do all the work he kind of fades off and "finds" some chores that he needed to finish. He also shares in the credit when the car runs as it should.

 

Love it!

 

I tested the fuel line at the schrader valve and it came up at 40. Cleared codes tried start, no joy. Am going to get battery checked now, it is about 14 months old. Fuses look good without removing all of them.

Will get compression tester when at auto store. Will order a couple of Ignition coils on net today. Still not sure if I need the 2 or 4 pin ones yet. About to look that up. Thanks for all the great advice. So far one kid in car once to turn the engine once. I like the put the wrench in their hands idea.

 

I would say get the car started first you may have a bad plug.

 

Gus is right, don't start throwing parts at it.

 

Battery looks good. 827 amps 12.7 volts. I will swap the ignition coil in a bit 8 will go to 7. I will check for oil fouling the space where the plug is. I will then check for spark while turning over the motor (son's second time helping.) I will pay attention to the ignition coil to see if it is the two pin or 4 pin type then order over the net as they are about $65 plus fees there and $116 locally at Napa. Keep the advice comin, this is like having a pit crew!! Love it.

 

1. Pull the valve covers off and check the tensioners/alignment of the cam flats- if they are metal, go to #2, if not replace them. (necessary with ANY new-to-you 1998-2003 jag)

Did you do #1 yet? (It's number one for a reason....)