I’m new to this forum. I’m helping a friend with her deceased husband’s 2000 XK8 convertible. The top is not working properly. On the display it’s showing “Convertible Top Not Latched”. I checked the latch, and can lock it and unlock it via the access hole. The top will not go up or down but the quarter windows will go down, but not up. I disconnected the trunk relays for the quarter windows so they stay up until I can figure out what’s wrong with the top latch. I had to use a jumper to get the quarter windows to go back up.
I did see a video of a 1999 XK8 with the same display where they pulled a relay in the trunk, and reinstalled it, and the error cleared. They didn't say what relay they pulled to get the system to detect the top was latched. Any help will be appreciated.

 

Is the manual valve at the pump closed? Do you hear a "bong" when you try to lower the roof? Does the hydraulic pump start? Have you tried to use the key in the drivers door to open or close the roof?
- Check the fuse 14 (40A) in the trunk fuse box. This is power to the hydraulic pump
At the Body control module:
- Check for ground at the Green/Red wire (top closed switch), the Green/Yellow wire (Top latch closed switch) and the Green/White wire (Top ready to latch switch)

 

NorXKR. Thanks for the information. I’ll be checking the fuses next. I needed to clear the P0351 and the P0353 codes first. (cleared)
There is no noise from the pumps. The top is up (closed), but nothing happens with the roof switch, except quarter windows do come down, but will not rise. I have to jump the windows up relay to close them, and then remove the relays so they don’t come down. I’ll post an update on what I find. TY

 

NorXKR fuse 14 is good. Could both relays in the trunk for the top be bad at the same time? Nothing happens when the top switch is pressed. Is the a fuse or relay for the top latch? Again I can latch and unlatch the top with the Allen wrench. But nothing happens.
another question, do the quarter windows relays have to be installed for the top to operate? I still have them pulled to stop the windows from going down

 

Install the relays for the windows and then check that the pump has fluid and is plugged in. Trunk, right side behind the panel, the pump should have fluid at the line on the canister.

 

When the top is fully closed and you press the button to open this should happen:
- Both rear quarter windows open (they got powered for 3 sec)
- You will hear a "bong" that warns you that the top are about to open
- Both front door windows will lower slightly (like when you open the door)
- THEN the top UP relay will be switched on (yes the up not down!) and you should hear the pump
- An electric valve opens and will send oil pressure to the latch for opening
- After the latch is open, the top up relay will be switch off and the top down relay will be switched on, at the same time another valve opens and direct oil pressure to the top cylinders to rise the top.

There are five micro switches that gives the system signals of where the top and latch is and what to do next. Check the switches at the Body control module as I wrote in previous reply.
And as CJD777 writes; check that the pump and valves are plugged in!

 

NorXKR I looked at the pump. It doesn’t appear to have any hydraulic fluid in it, and never did. The owner before he passed away supposedly paid a jaguar dealer $2,000 to “fix” the top.
it looks like all the wires are connected, but the tank is appears empty. See attached
is there a step by step procedure to fill the tank, and what’s the preferred fluid? I place a light behind the tank. Looks like there isn’t any residue, and I can’t find and fluid around the lines.

 

Has anyone evaluated Triax Powerfluid 450 Synthetic hydraulic fluid for the XK8 top pump?
It shows it “meets or exceeds” Pentosin CHF 11S. Also states “lifetime fill” with no need to change.

 

Well, that's a good news bad news bunch of photos.
I going to give a observation from these photos. You have a empty tank, known. Fill it up with that fluid you have as I have a feeling it's going to get pumped right back out by a leak in the rams or the latch. Those hoses show the normal route of falling apart, the rubber covering it going away and the area around the connections is going to leak.
Check around the over head light for any signs of fluid residue before adding new fluid, you don't want to have it coming out all over the console and seats. If there, the first thing to do is have a family member take the receipt to the people that did the work and show them what is going on. The $2000 would have been for new hoses and labor, so you have proof that this work was not preformed.
Sorry buddy, wish I could help more.

 

Fyi, if you're going to fill it yourself, you might find life is much easier if you unscrew and move pump (or rack + pump, I forget which is easier) out of that narrow space. You will need something with a hose if you leave it in place. Not enough room to tilt and pour.

John

 

Ok, latest update. Found the repair paperwork from the Jaguar dealer. They replaced the lines over the windshield for $2,000. They then said the rams were leaking and needed to be “reconditioned” for an additional $2,000. That’s the reason for the dry pump. I looked up the kits to do this myself. Kits were anywhere between $1,200 + core to $2,000 + core. The procedures I found online to do this were outside my comfort zone as they were saying I’d basically have to strip the entire interior out of the car, e.g. front and back seats, both rear panels, rear speakers, and “hundreds of connectors, screws and clips” “and DON’T lose any of them because you’ll not be able to complete the job”.
I may just fill the pump and confirm the leaks, to pass on to the owner.
(Note - this same dealer charged the elderly owner $140 to tell them the “Convertible Top Not Latched” display meant the convertible top wasn’t latched due to low fluid.)

 

Please do not give up so quickly.
Jon89 and I did the ram part and back hose to them and it's not even a bit complicated, just takes a few containers to hold the parts so you can keep things in order.
If just the rams, you can have them rebuilt by several hydraulic places for less than $250 each and if that's all you want to do, piece of cake, couple of screwdrivers and a small wrench set, honest.
Read Jon's write up, the rams are right behind the rear speaker panel, take the speaker out and you are looking at it.

 

Cjd777, before I tackle something like that, I’ll have to clear it with the owner. I checked Top Hydraulic and ram rebuild are $160 ea (plus shipping & tax).
If she says “do it”, that will be my next task.
Thanks for the information.

One question, is there a way to see if the rams are leaking under pressure without tearing everything apart? Like an inspection opening in the trunk?

 

You can not see the rams from the trunk. You may see them with the roof down, on each side behind the rear speakers. You can take the top cover off on each side and maybe see it with the top up, but it is very easy to take out the back seat and the side panels.

 

To your question of his to tell if the rams are leaking under pressure. Remove lower rear seat cushion. Two nuts, one in each side below front of cushion. Look for wet or oil under seat cushion in the back corners. Takes about ten minutes or less. In regards to the quarter windows not raising after lowered, it's because the right ram has a micro switch that when ram is up and locked it will allow the windows to raise. To remove and replace the rams, only the back seat and rear interior side panels need removed to access the speaker and brace bar. Very easy if you know what and where the fasteners are. There is a detailed write up on this forum. It should be under green shower if you search. I used that when I replaced my top lines a few years ago. Note, this is much easier with the top down. It can be lowered manually as long as you "unlock"the rams first. Owner manual or this forum can guide you on proper place to press down to unlock the rams. good luck in getting this sorted out.

 

Dcarlo, great information. I’m going to use your suggestions when it warms up a bit. Even my garage gets cold, and too big to heat (3 car garage)
Its not that I don’t trust a Jag dealer to give false information to an elderly widow, I just don’t trust a dealer telling the truth 🫤