2000 xk8 top issues
#1
2000 xk8 top issues
I have a 2000 jaguar xk8 the rear windows go up and down but the top will not unlatch to go down. I do not hear the pump turn on in the back after windows go down. Any and all help is appreciated. I do not know much about convertiable tops. But i do know a few years ago the lines were replaced and it worked fine till a few weeks ago and i cannot figure this out.
The following users liked this post:
Gus (10-20-2019)
#3
40A fuse or plastic wire connectors gone bad
John,
+1 to Dennis07. The hydraulic pump should be running once the quarter windows are down. Both the hood latch, above the windscreen, and the cylinder rams are hydraulic driven. So the 40A fuse in the trunk fusebox is a good place to start. As Dennis says it’s not a difficult problem to fix.
If it’s not the fuse, there are a number of wires to the pump. The big black/white one is the power connection. Should be secured or can work loose. Really easy to access to check. You know where it is? Pic below.
The blue/orange connectors on top of the pump are really brittle now with age and also break. Worth checking too.
It’s rare for hydraulic pumps to break 100percent. Normally it’s a wiring control problem.
+1 to Dennis07. The hydraulic pump should be running once the quarter windows are down. Both the hood latch, above the windscreen, and the cylinder rams are hydraulic driven. So the 40A fuse in the trunk fusebox is a good place to start. As Dennis says it’s not a difficult problem to fix.
If it’s not the fuse, there are a number of wires to the pump. The big black/white one is the power connection. Should be secured or can work loose. Really easy to access to check. You know where it is? Pic below.
The blue/orange connectors on top of the pump are really brittle now with age and also break. Worth checking too.
It’s rare for hydraulic pumps to break 100percent. Normally it’s a wiring control problem.
The following 2 users liked this post by DavidYau:
Don B (11-01-2019),
Orthodixie (10-19-2019)
#4
John,
+1 to Dennis07. The hydraulic pump should be running once the quarter windows are down. Both the hood latch, above the windscreen, and the cylinder rams are hydraulic driven. So the 40A fuse in the trunk fusebox is a good place to start. As Dennis says it’s not a difficult problem to fix.
If it’s not the fuse, there are a number of wires to the pump. The big black/white one is the power connection. Should be secured or can work loose. Really easy to access to check. You know where it is? Pic below.
The blue/orange connectors on top of the pump are really brittle now with age and also break. Worth checking too.
It’s rare for hydraulic pumps to break 100percent. Normally it’s a wiring control problem.
+1 to Dennis07. The hydraulic pump should be running once the quarter windows are down. Both the hood latch, above the windscreen, and the cylinder rams are hydraulic driven. So the 40A fuse in the trunk fusebox is a good place to start. As Dennis says it’s not a difficult problem to fix.
If it’s not the fuse, there are a number of wires to the pump. The big black/white one is the power connection. Should be secured or can work loose. Really easy to access to check. You know where it is? Pic below.
The blue/orange connectors on top of the pump are really brittle now with age and also break. Worth checking too.
It’s rare for hydraulic pumps to break 100percent. Normally it’s a wiring control problem.
thank you dennis and david i will check those out after work today and will give an update after i check it out.
#6
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#11
Check the top down relay.
Link. http://www.jagrepair.com/HydSystemEvaluationXK8XKR.htm
This might help
Link.
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/FuseRelayandRoadsideInfo/RoadsideFuseLocations.pdf
Gus
www.jagrepair.com
Link. http://www.jagrepair.com/HydSystemEvaluationXK8XKR.htm
This might help
Link.
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/FuseRelayandRoadsideInfo/RoadsideFuseLocations.pdf
Gus
www.jagrepair.com
Last edited by Gus; 10-20-2019 at 08:48 PM.
#13
#14
John,
At this point I would test to see if the pump motor is alive.
Open the 2-wire connector leading to the pump ... the one with two thick wires, one black and one white. You want to apply battery voltage directly to the motor, just for an instant. Using test leads, connect the black wire side of the connector to chassis or battery ground, and then strike a test lead connected to the white wire side against the battery + terminal. If the pump is alive, you'll hear it react. Reverse polarity and try the test again if it works the first time (the pump has to work with both polarities).
At this point I would test to see if the pump motor is alive.
Open the 2-wire connector leading to the pump ... the one with two thick wires, one black and one white. You want to apply battery voltage directly to the motor, just for an instant. Using test leads, connect the black wire side of the connector to chassis or battery ground, and then strike a test lead connected to the white wire side against the battery + terminal. If the pump is alive, you'll hear it react. Reverse polarity and try the test again if it works the first time (the pump has to work with both polarities).
The following users liked this post:
Don B (11-01-2019)
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