If no fuel came out of the nipple when you pressed on it with a screwdriver, then there's no pressure. I doubt a fuel pressure gauge would tell you anything different. If it's a clogged fuel filter then some fuel is going to be leaking past it. I don't see how the filter can let you drive for 40 minutes and then completely clog when you turn of the engine, so I'm thinking it has to be the pump. However, you said one thing that had me thinking that maybe it's the filter. You said "Almost turns over, but can't quite get there". That makes me think that the pump is pumping, but the fuel flow is being restricted somewhere. Otherwise it would just crank and crank and you'd never get an indication that it was about to start. If the filter is clogged you might have high pressure behind the clog but low pressure after the clog. So try this: Turn the key on for a few seconds without trying to start it, then turn it off. Then turn it on and back off. Do that a few more times, then try to start it. If it starts and runs for a few seconds, then you have a clog somewhere in your fuel line, most likely at the filter. When you first turn on the key the pump runs for a few seconds to pressurize the line before you crank it. By turning it on and off several times without actually cranking the engine you'll pressurize the fuel system. If there's a clog, enough fuel should get downstream of the clog to actually let the engine run for a second or two. But if the fuel pump is dead, you won't notice any difference in cranking between pre-charging the fuel system and not pre-charging it.

 

My vote is on a failed fuel pump.Most fuel is good for up to a year,No fuel at the regulator is a pretty good sign,fuel pump failure don't show up on any fault codes.

 

Yeah, I agree. The fuel isn't the problem.

 

Ok gave it a try. Turned the key to start, counted to 3, turned it off - did this 10 times, then tried to start. Same results. Its cranking well and wants to start but no go. But it will start for a few seconds with starter fluid in the intake. Did this process 3 more times about 20 minutes apart (was working a passenger seat issue in between). I like your thought - it was definitely worth trying. Am going to try it again - I want to make sure my battery is still getting a full charge - been working on the car alot and trying to start it alot. Its a new battery but worth double checking.

 

The fact that it starts with starter fluid in the intake means that the engine is getting spark. It has to be a fuel problem. I don't see how it can be anything except the fuel pump at this point.

 

I found this in the FAQ section under MY 2003 changes:


Engine Cranks but will not Start
• If the Engine is cranking it means that the ECM is enabled with respect to the
immobilizer function. If the immobilizer had failed validation the ECM would not engage
the starter. This could be confirmed by reading DTC from the IC and ECM.
• In this case, the fuel pump circuit should be verified. A fuel pump module, which is
controlled by the ECM, supplies the fuel pump.
• In all cases of suspected immobilizer non-start issues, the most logical failure modes
should be eliminated first.
• Check all relevant supplies and grounds to the KTM, BPM, IC and ECM, check that the
starter relay has a permanent 12V supply, check that the relay has a 12V supply and
ground across the coil while the ignition is in the crank position.

 

sounds like a fuel pump issue.
just check the relay first

 

ok, so after vacations and business travel, I am finally able to get back to working on this. Well I did get a hold of a test kit and there isn't any pressure. So its on to the fuel pump. Will be searching these forums and other places for places for information on doing this - again, I am a car novice - so any links or pointers in the right direction will be appreciated. Again, I have a 2001 XK8.

 

I checked Alldata and replacing the pump looks fairly simple. It calls for a "special tool" to open the tank to get to the pump. I think a broad screwdriver and a mallet will open it up. Good luck

 

If you are going to replace the fuel pump you can use this link for a how to http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairFuelPump.htm Replacing the fuel pump is a big job and should not be taken lightly. Be sure that it is the pump and not the filter or any other problem..

 

I have the same problem. I am now after the fuel pump or pumps. I started with starting fluid in the air intake. she fired right back up and then died. Fuel problem. Then went electrical. fuse box in trunk. check fuses 3 7 22 plus red wire leading into fuse box. then pull the 2nd brown box with three receptacles.check to see if all receptacles have power. if they do jump 3 to 5 if pump doesn't start. the pumps the problem Now I am stumped on how to get to the pump/pumps.

 

This will help http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairFuelPump.htm

 

My money is also on the fuel pump.It will be a fun weekend project for someone just jumping into his first Jaguar project.

 

You can't get to the fuel pumps (on XKR's)without removing the fuel Tank.But if you have done what was suggested on the other posts it is almost sure to be the pumps.Think of it this way the fuel is in the tank,which then you have the pumps in the tank and then the gas the goes thru the filter to the regulator and then to the injectors.If your not seeing pressure at the regulator then the fuel is not being delivered that far.And since you checked the electrical in and out of the relay and you know that you have electricity to the pumps,then you can be pretty sure it's the pumps.Plus you know the engine will run on it own if it get fuel becuse it started when you put starting fluid into the intake.If it were me I would order the pumps strainers,fuel filter, wiring harness and a case of cold ones.

 

Ok, so to close out my experience, it was the fuel pump. I wasn't comfortable taking this on so I went ahead and had it done at the shop. the local jag dealer estimate was $1200 - $1400. the garage I have been taking vehicles to for years replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter in 1 day for $938 (including tax). $356 was for the parts - which they got from the dealer (hmm, probably could have gotten better prices elsewhere I think). Not an inexpensive repair by any means but a heck of alot cheaper than the dealer (not that that will surprise anyone).

Granted I didn't do this repair, but I learned alot by trying all the things that you guys recommended - so that experience was definitely worth gaining. Thanks for everyone's input - it was spot on.

 

Thanks for letting us know how everything turned out.The forum is a great place for us cat lovers to sort out problems with our Jaguars.

 

Thanks guys this is a wonderful tool I can't beleive the wealth of information. I'm new to the forum so I would like to share what I did find with my 2003 XK8 Jaguar. After winter storage and installing a new battery and then filled up the tank with premium unleaded gas I could not start the engine after 200KM of driving from Toronto. The engine was cranking over fine the fuel was pressurized to constant 59 psi. The problem was a loose Ignition coil relay driver side engine compartment. I pushed the relay together and the car started no problems. For some reason the relays were installed in reverse order on the relay block in the fuse box location diagram is now corrected. The first indication was when I did finally get it to start and closed the hood the engine shut down. Hum, loose contact narrow it down to the Ingition coil relay next to the EMS control relay. Keep up the great work everyone.

Correction- Location for the ignition coil relay is on the passanger RH for the control module enclosurer snapped relay together no problems engine started immmediately.

Thanks to Kenny at Bluewater Ford in Lambton county in Forest, Ontario Canada near Michigan border. These guys are great two hours diagosnostic $150 tax included and problem solved.

How the relay slipped apart is a mystery but eliminated alot grief thinking fuel pump etc, Filter etc.

Mike-Canada
2003 Jaguar XK8 British Racing Green

 

In one of the posts, someone stated that they, "Pulled the 2nd brown box with three receptacles, checked to see if all receptacles have power. If they do jump 3 to 5 if pump doesn't start." Could someone please help me with this? Where is this 2nd brown box? What does "jump 3 to 5 mean? I ask because I am not getting power to the fuel pump. Fuses are good. Relays are good. This is how it went down; Vehicle ran fine. Stopped at a light. Went into restricted performance mode, ran at rough idle then died. Crank-no restart. Checked for signal (power) at fuse box. No luck. Anybody have any suggestions?

 

You need to get the codes to find out what caused the restricted performance. As for the fuel pump test you need to check the fuel pressure at the schrader valve. Get the OBD II codes!

 

OK, I was able to confirm that it is the fuel pump. I have followed all of the steps to remove the tank except one. I am unable to find the gas line above the differential. For the life of me, I can't find it. I even looked at the you tube video. His was a 2003 I believe. Mine is a 2000. Can anyone direct me to where I can find that line or lines so I can pull the tank? Thanks.