2001 XK8 throttle body repairs
#21
#22
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Where is ASI--please send me a telephone # and an address. I've changed my TPS at least three times including getting one from Jaytran Industries with a 2 year warranty and I had to send it back almost every month.
#23
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Hello Forum,
Just wanted to share a problem and see if, anyone had any comments. I been dealing with random misfire codes and the car will not run anymore. Finally after screwing around with it enough. I got a code that said throttle body motor was not working. This made sense to me. Misfires were not related to any one cylinder.
With the ignition on, I actually put an O-scope on the leads to throttle body motor and found a signal which was indicating that motor was being told to run in one direction. As soon as I manually opened the throttle plate with my finger, the signal reversed polarity indicating the ECM was telling it to go the other direction. Made me think the pinion on the throttle motor might be stripped.
I started to disassemble the throttle body tonight and found that the screws securing TPS are pentagonal. Also screws securing throttle body motor are Torx-25 with a pin in the center. TPS has adjustable position. I am thinking that even if, I did get it apart, I would never got it back together again right. I googled service info for the part number of the TB and got nada.
So, I am fixing to spend 600 bucks on a warrantied TB from BBA Reman in Taunton, Mass without really knowing for sure that it will solve problem.
Might be overthinking this but, I just had hoped to find the smoking gun.
I see a lot of comments on here about TB issues.
Anyone got any comments? Thanks for listening and if, I have any epiphanies I will post here.
Just wanted to share a problem and see if, anyone had any comments. I been dealing with random misfire codes and the car will not run anymore. Finally after screwing around with it enough. I got a code that said throttle body motor was not working. This made sense to me. Misfires were not related to any one cylinder.
With the ignition on, I actually put an O-scope on the leads to throttle body motor and found a signal which was indicating that motor was being told to run in one direction. As soon as I manually opened the throttle plate with my finger, the signal reversed polarity indicating the ECM was telling it to go the other direction. Made me think the pinion on the throttle motor might be stripped.
I started to disassemble the throttle body tonight and found that the screws securing TPS are pentagonal. Also screws securing throttle body motor are Torx-25 with a pin in the center. TPS has adjustable position. I am thinking that even if, I did get it apart, I would never got it back together again right. I googled service info for the part number of the TB and got nada.
So, I am fixing to spend 600 bucks on a warrantied TB from BBA Reman in Taunton, Mass without really knowing for sure that it will solve problem.
Might be overthinking this but, I just had hoped to find the smoking gun.
I see a lot of comments on here about TB issues.
Anyone got any comments? Thanks for listening and if, I have any epiphanies I will post here.
#24
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Hi all.
Before going the way of expensive replacement or repairs of your TB, make sure your TB gets the electrical power it's supposed to.
The most obvious is to spray all connectors sparsely with electrical cleaner. (Not WD-40)
Next check the Throttle Motor Power relay for proper functioning. A Swedish friend of me had the dreaded P1121 even after installing a new TB. (1997MY)
The cheap solution was to change the before mentioned relay in which the internal contacts were corroded.
In later MY you may get other codes, (P1124, 2001MY) or somewhere around that.
Before going the way of expensive replacement or repairs of your TB, make sure your TB gets the electrical power it's supposed to.
The most obvious is to spray all connectors sparsely with electrical cleaner. (Not WD-40)
Next check the Throttle Motor Power relay for proper functioning. A Swedish friend of me had the dreaded P1121 even after installing a new TB. (1997MY)
The cheap solution was to change the before mentioned relay in which the internal contacts were corroded.
In later MY you may get other codes, (P1124, 2001MY) or somewhere around that.
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cjd777 (12-22-2014)
#25
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This is a link for ASI but check your plug contacts and make sure they are clean. The code P0121 is a plug issue a P1121 most of the time a TPS issue but clean the plugs first.
Link. http://www.autoecu.com/index.php?p=1
Gus
www.jagrepair.com
Link. http://www.autoecu.com/index.php?p=1
Gus
www.jagrepair.com
The following users liked this post:
cjd777 (12-22-2014)
#26
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Hey Oyster,
How is Norway? I was working is Porsgrunn last August. Expensive as hell there but, I thought it was one of the most beautiful countries I had ever seen!
Anyway, in my case, I could here the throttle motor humming so I know it was getting a command signal from the ECM. The code I was getting was a P1229 "throttle motor circuit malfunction." Possible causes are circuit problem or bad motor and I verified the circuit was functioning with a scope and hearing the noise. I feel pretty good about sending the TB off for repair. I knew that the TPS had to be coupled to the throttle shaft in some fashion and I could not see a way to uncouple it not did I have the special tools to remove it. The TPS has to come off before the throttle motor comes out and I could not see this working out well for me.
My copy of JTIS does not mention any assembly/disassembly instructions so as far as I could tell, the unit is unserviceable by mere halfassed mechanics like myself. Anyway, thanks for your comments.
How is Norway? I was working is Porsgrunn last August. Expensive as hell there but, I thought it was one of the most beautiful countries I had ever seen!
Anyway, in my case, I could here the throttle motor humming so I know it was getting a command signal from the ECM. The code I was getting was a P1229 "throttle motor circuit malfunction." Possible causes are circuit problem or bad motor and I verified the circuit was functioning with a scope and hearing the noise. I feel pretty good about sending the TB off for repair. I knew that the TPS had to be coupled to the throttle shaft in some fashion and I could not see a way to uncouple it not did I have the special tools to remove it. The TPS has to come off before the throttle motor comes out and I could not see this working out well for me.
My copy of JTIS does not mention any assembly/disassembly instructions so as far as I could tell, the unit is unserviceable by mere halfassed mechanics like myself. Anyway, thanks for your comments.
#27
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Hi Sparky H.
You were 15 minutes away from where I live. Right now we have -4C and light snow. If you go back there, send me a PM. Thanks for the nice words about Norway.
Throttle body.
The design of the TB has changed over the years. I can't see what model year you have, but I agree with your conclusions.
As far as I can figure out we have three sensors; Throttle Pedal Position sensor (TPS), Throttle Blade Position Sensor (TBS) and Mechanical Guard Position Sensor (MGP). These sensors are mostly potentiometers although a Hall sensor was used for one of the sensors in earlier models.
Potentiometers will eventually wear out so in high mileage cars rebuilding the TB with new sensors is probably a good idea.
However, in low mileage cars there is no reason the sensors should be bad. Here I would suspect poor contact in either one of the connectors or in the relay supplying power.
Anyway, always start with the cheapest solution. Check the power supply before repairing or changing your TB.
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You were 15 minutes away from where I live. Right now we have -4C and light snow. If you go back there, send me a PM. Thanks for the nice words about Norway.
Throttle body.
The design of the TB has changed over the years. I can't see what model year you have, but I agree with your conclusions.
As far as I can figure out we have three sensors; Throttle Pedal Position sensor (TPS), Throttle Blade Position Sensor (TBS) and Mechanical Guard Position Sensor (MGP). These sensors are mostly potentiometers although a Hall sensor was used for one of the sensors in earlier models.
Potentiometers will eventually wear out so in high mileage cars rebuilding the TB with new sensors is probably a good idea.
However, in low mileage cars there is no reason the sensors should be bad. Here I would suspect poor contact in either one of the connectors or in the relay supplying power.
Anyway, always start with the cheapest solution. Check the power supply before repairing or changing your TB.
![Icon Santawaving](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_santawaving.gif)
![Icon Santawaving](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_santawaving.gif)
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