Well I had put these plans on hold as I had other plans for this car... however summer is coming and a busted coupler has given me no other choice....


So here is a list of what I plan on doing for now. I figured there will be a level of cursing and if I can help just one person along the way well bravo!


1) Later model m112 upgrade from an xjr. Well the rear inlet is different on these two blowers so you need to use your factory xjr one. I port matched it to the newer blower gasket which opened it up a bit.


2) Rebuilt Rotor Pack. I sent mine out to Magnum Powers to have it rebuilt and recoated. The coating they use doesn't chip and is abradable (Photo attached)

3) 10% Stainless Steel pulley upgrade. Had the blower snout turned down at Ace Crankshaft/Ace Competition Engines in Deer Park NY (he said he'd do others if people were interested) Was going to do it myself but this is just a much cleaner way. Didn't put pulley on just yet but attached a photo.


4) Stainless ARP bolts for Blower. Why? Eh Why not. While I'm at it Ill be painting the blower and valve covers. So far I did only the snout (Photo attached). I thoroughly cleaned the snout, used Bully paint adhesion helper and did two light coats and one wet coat of a semigloss high heat ceramic paint. I cured it in the oven at 250 degrees F for about 30 minutes. Looks great. Hopefully eth valve covers work out just as well. They are the real reason I bought the Bully paint adhesion helper.

5) Maxbore TB (still waiting for it to come back) and Custom air intake hydrodipped carbon fiber. Also had the Intercoolers hot tanked and hydro dipped along with the blower top. Up in the air about MAF and Injectors. I have the ABACO and later model injectors but really don't want to deal with having to figure out a transfer function. Also have the MINA cold air kit already installed.


5) Valve cover Gaskets, Orings etc. Well I figured now a good time to do the upper chain tensioners :O). Il be using the zip tie method. Pray for me. Also have some groovy Carbon fiber Cam Covers(Photo attached)


6) Lower degree thermostat.


7) Under blower valley hoses. I fully expect to bust something in the process. Perhaps that NORA fitting. Well see.


I have a few photos Ill post now but more once things get going. May tackle taking it apart tomorrow. Should be a blast....Still waiting for some parts

 

Well took apart the entire top end of the motor (not heads). Here is where Im at.


1) Managed to bust the brake booster vacuume line in the inlet(ordered the repair pieces). JAGUAR OEM BRAKE BOOSTER HOSE CONNECTOR KIT C2S15816
2) Managed to bust one of the corrugated secondary breather lines. Found a new one rather than rig it up. NEW Jaguar Vanden Plas XJR XK8 XKR XJ8 GENUINE Breather Hose AJ8 4880
( 161944795189 )
3)Replaced secondary tensioners using zip tie method....Boy was that easy. My plastic ones looked perfectly fine however.
4) All new seals for valve covers. Also my covers were faded where the hood vents are so I painted them. Used Bully Paint adhesive, two coats, then two light coats and one wet coat of a semigloss black ceramic engine paint (good up to 500 F). I also had to repair 1 brass collet for the coil covers. Used JB weld. Cant find the coil cover gaskets anywhere ....Silicone it is
5)Painted coolant crossover same as above (looking for orings, one of mine looked deformed.) Also installed lower degree thermostat from eurotoys. Jaguar Low-Temp Thermostat - Jaguar Performance Parts, Eurotoys,Ltd.
6) Painted blower and snout same as above and installed the 10% powerhouse SS pulley. I heated pulley up in my oven to 450 F for about 10 min. It literally slid right on. Had the snout machined locally at a machine shop. Was going to do it myself but ehhhhhh https://powerhouse.uk/content/superc...ut-upgrade.php
7) I had mentioned it before however I had my rotor pack rebuilt at the rotors stripped and recoated by Magnum Powers. Rotor Packs Archives - Magnum Powers
8) The SC I'm using is originally from a 2004 xjr. I ported the factory 2001xkr inlet. Awaiting my TB to return from maxbore. It should be here this week. Ill then port match that.
9) Ordered a new set of plugs. I had the Autolite XP 3923. I may go with a colder plug
10) Ordered various hoses.
11) Mentioned it before but had my IC's, Top, and custom air inlet hydrodipped Carbon fiber. My coil covers are also overlaid in real carbon fiber.
12) Ordered misc ARP bolts for blower case and other things. Ill post part numbers when Im done


So next weekend it will go back together. I was surprised my tensioners still looked good, and my blower....Well it was ported.... The coupler was not broken as I thought and it doesn't seem to be making noise off the car. So Im not really sure what the noise I heard was. It did appear to be coming from the blower. I HOPE its not a wrist pin. I attached a few more photos. Nothing to interesting till it goes back together. Should look a lot better and perform a bit better as well....Considering something else is not wrong. Also one idler pulley was binding badly which may have been a squeak I used to have.....So much fun

 

I just realized I repeated myself a bit here :O)

 

Well Maxbore TB came in...82mm is what they go the bore to..85 would have sounded better hahaha Coincidently they only got 79mm out of my 04 xjr TB

 

Well put the SC together as I finally got the ARP bolts for it. Here are two photos with the top on just for the look. Ill post all the part Numbers at the end to make it easy incase anyone else wants to do the same. Just waiting for my intake gaskets.

 

Just an update. Managed to source every tensioner except for the one with a single lip. Couldn't quite get the right offset so I just changed the bearing. The 90mm Tensioner bearing was shot for sure. Ill post part # when done here. Also when ordering gaskets for the intercooler make sure to order 2 not one..Its one per package....Anyway its coming along and here it is

 

Boy did that bypass give me a hassle. I think perhaps the later model blower positions the inlet up a bit more causing me to have to trim the little rubber hoses on the bypass to the IC's...Anyway its done. still waiting for my water coolant crossover orings..May just use the old ones as they wernt leaking. Anyway I snapped one photo today. Should be buttoned up tomorrow. Unfortunately spent a good portion of the day with rain.... Anyway the latest photo...Soon Soon....And hopefully with no noise

 

The position is not so much changed, only the bearings stick out more from the SC, so the intake elbow sits more to the rear. Just make sure you have left enough space between the bearings and intake elbow so when it expands it doesn't touches the elbow. When I did mine, I used the 4.2 gasket and drilled away some of the material on the elbow where the bearings could touch (maybe 2 mm iirc, it was more then 10 years ago..)

 

Well Job is done....Good news started right up...Bad news...I do believe my knock wasn't the supercharger but a wrist pin/rod bearing. Go figure. ANYWAY ill be starting a new thread on that. I had a few hiccups regarding vacuum lines that I SHOULD have attached at various points during reassembly but next time around Ill be more aware of that. Anyway I am going to post some part #'s now that will help anyone who may be doing this along with any other advice.


1) Later Model Supercharger. As mentioned I had the rotor pack rebuilt and coated by Charles Warner at Magnum Powers. I had the snout milled (I think it was 20 thousands)to accept the powerhouse SS 10% Pulley. Heated pulley up in oven at 450 degrees F for about 10 minutes and when I pulled it out it slipped right on. I also used a solid coupler (can be found on Ebay) for the snout to rotor pack connection. My car had an oversized crank pulley (I had no idea before doing this) however this belt just barely fit Gates Fleet Runner Heavy Duty K080510HD. Likely with the smaller factory pulley it will go on much easier.


2) Replaced all of the tensioners except the one that has a one sided lip. I could only source one with two lips and it was centered properly. I ended up just changing the bearing out. The Pulley part numbers are (1) Gates 38028 76mm, (1) Gates 36270 83mm (ribbed), (1) Duralast 231053 (Dayco 89053) 8 rib grooved 76mm, (1) Duralast 231048(Dayco 89048) 8 rib smooth 90mm. The Duralast is an Autozone brand. You can likely cross reference the numbers. The Belt I used was a GAtes K070922.


3) Maxbore TB. They managed 82mm. What I did was used the factory metal gasket and using a sanding roll on my dremel basically opened it up to the size of the TB. I then marked it off on the factory inlet and ported the opening using an aluminum cutting bit and smoothing it out with a sanding roll. My advice is that you'll be trimming the grooved lip of the metal gasket. On the inlet side it will likely be the bevel there as well. I ported into the inlet a bit to smooth various things out. Make sure not to take too much material off in certain areas that may be prone to being thin.


4)Misc stainless bolts. For the blower snout to case I used ARP 771-1007 which are M8x50mm. Although the length is correct the shank on the bolt cuts it very close. I made sure my threads were clean using my tap set and smoothed out the opening into the case to leave plenty of room for the shank. One of bolts would bottom the shank out on the case so I wanted to be sure all was well. You could likely get away with a slightly shorter bolt and the shank wouldn't interfere. For my valve cover and blower hat I cut they heads off of the factory bolts so I could reuse the sleeves with my new ARP 770-1003 which are M6x30. I removed the metal trays by the injectors and only used one factory stud mounted bolt for the dipstick tube. Looks much cleaner.


5) Coil cover gaskets and bolts. Well I have custom coil covers and I had no gasket. So I used some EPDM rubber used to seal doors on the valve covers. If that doesn't work I may try a silicone version but I think i'm ok. I used m5x20mm Stainless button head screws to bolt them down. They sealed really well.


6) MISC jaguar parts, gaskets. Jaguar part KSC137624-Thats the o-ring for the bypass. JAGUAR NCA2269CA_(Order 2)These should be for the water crossover/thermostat housing. They didn't come in yet but I think these are it. Jaguar NCC3018AB.-(Order 2) These are the gasket sunder the IC's. You cant find them anywhere but Jaguar..At least I couldn't. Well that plastic pipe that goes into the inlet...Well mine broke. So I trimmed the end and replaced the connector in the elbow with Jaguar C2S15816. The secondary breather hose snapped because I was a bit rough with it. Cheap enough to replace Jaguar AJ8 4880. Valve cover gasket set Victor VS50397


7) Timing tensioners you can find on ebay along with the proper grease and fluid for the m112.


Now I would love to end this and say WOW amazing how wonderful...But truth is as I mentioned right off the bat my noise was apparently a wrist pin or a rod bearing. I should have drained the oil prior to doing this work and well I would have known. Anyway it looks good. Now to take it all apart again..With a new thread any many questions Im sure. Here are some misc photos