The car is a crazy maker and doesn't KNOW itself. It's my feeling and belief that in a big ol general way, the software in these cars have a hard time figuring what it's going on. For instance, and as an aside of sorts. Yesterday I got in the car from cold, drove 150+miles (in chasing the p1111 to prepare for an inspection coming up in 5-6 days). Get in the car, start driving. Less than 5 minutes on back street non highway roads, get on the highway and drive 1.5 hours at 65+ mph for 80+ miles, I check the "average trip speed" - it tells me 32mph after driving 1.5hrs at 70mph? I mean, what is that? What value is "average trip speed" to me if the car is offering a value of speed that is collected over the last 42days of driving? Lol, it's ridiculous. Same kind of stupid and useless information for average mpg... It's speed in which information is gather and changed is useless and drawn out over God knows how much time.

Is it the same for the process the ECU goes thru to report that everything is ok,,, or not. I mean come on....

The car, if I clear the codes, then watch the DTC readiness screen, within 5-10 minutes, some readiness checks will go GREEN on but in this case MISFIRE goes green in minutes. But then I'll look at pending faults later after the 150+ miles and it shows me I have several (and this is COMPLETELY out of the blue - no misfire history and NO misfires that I feel myself) cylinders with misfires and the general p0316 multiple misfires - but ok... I'm looking at this list like WTF. No CEL, just this list of pending faults. My Lady takes the car (with pending faults), drives 28miles. Comes home, parks over night. I get in the car the next morning - the continued readiness test chase, to find that after her near 30mile mix of city and highway driving the "pending" misfire codes remain. THAT, with some other codes I'll describe in a sec). So, I get in the car - drive 25miles at highway speed and off highway roads. Park, check the codes, STILL the list of (I believe erroneous) misfire codes are there!? No CEL...?

So I ask. If the car can give a GREEN for misfire readiness in 5-10 minutes after the codes are completely cleared with scanner or a hard reset HOW can it not KNOW to drop misfire pending codes after 40+miles of mixed highway and side road driving with 2 to 3 cold to hot drive cycles in between??? It makes no sense.

My trims are perfect - near perfect - car runs and drives beautiful. I could go into a bunch of jibber jabber about what I'm seeing in my trims but won't do that to ya.... Still, the car WILL NOT or is taking its own sweet time at providing the readiness info needed to pass an inspection legally drive the car. This is a 38K motor in this car.

I stopped by a friend's garage yesterday. He plugged the car into his machine. Plugging the car into the diagnostic scanner ALONE produced a CEL, and 3 codes (from only having the P1000) it thru p1638, p1642 and I think a p1636 or something like that. CAN faults - but ok.... The car is then driven for a combined near 200miles after that, with stops and starts, under different driving conditions, a couple of hot cold cycles, the CEL disappears yes, yet I have what you see below - "pending"...

Right now I am sitting (again) in a parking lot, car off, after 20miles of mixed driving this morning - no CEL, readiness NOT set, a list of what I believe are false or erroneous codes and pending codes - and what not, in a car that drives beautiful-ly.... Hoping that MAYBE this damn car will decide what is going on and what it wants to do. The computer systems in these cars ARE **** and I believe will be, have been and are the reason so so many of them ended up in the pile.

Am I ranting, yes... Am I at the point of figuring out whether or not it makes sense to keep on playing these games with this car, yes I am. They can be quiet impossible to keep.

The software is crap and a complete crazy maker.

​​​​​​I KNOW that if I somehow get a sticker on the car, after who the hell knows how much driving, that the car (and it has) will give a clean p1111 and hold it. That is, until I do some routine work, or the battery goes low, or I clear the codes, or next year when the guy plugs a diagnostic scanner into the car and it throws a CEL or who knows what it takes - and it just goes haywire again. ​​​​​

 

do you understand how i/m monitors work? i don’t think you do

 

I'm all ears...

 

Start by reading up on OBD II as mandated by your laws. The car is following those laws.

E.g. by law a pending code will not put on the MIL (its correct name).

 

Have you read and studied the various readiness monitor drive cycle reset requirements? They are much more specific than just driving around randomly for 20 or 50 or 100 miles. By following the drive cycles (including the necessary fuel tank level and the required pre-drive and post-drive idling time), I have always been able to clear and reset all readiness monitors in less than 30 miles of driving. The key is to have plenty of clear roads ahead of you as well as behind you for the required coasting-to-a-stop portion of the process. Very early mornings on the miles of rural roads here in my neck of the woods have always helped....

 

Hey Jon. Thanks for the message, and sorry for the late reply.

I'm out here driving in circles again. Luckily, I have a driveway now. Ticket writers prowl the neighborhoods during the week looking for expired stickers.

Tank has always been full/over the 3/4 mark. Yeah, finding that kind of open road ahead and behind in NYC is not easy - but doable. Early Saturday and Sunday I can sometimes find places where I can coast to stops etc. But I can't say that I've ever known a exact drive cycle. Since not long after changing the engine in this car, I've always been with p1111, no codes, no CELs, I was amazed at trim numbers - life was good. Problems coincided a low battery - and nothing has been right since. Messages after the low battery (and it's replacement) was what prompted the downstream sensor change.

What are the frames for pre and post idle time? I can find a place to let the ol girl idle...no problem.

 

It depends upon which monitor you are attempting to clear and reset. The upstream oxygen sensors drive cycle, downstream oxygen sensors drive cycle, oxygen sensor heaters, evaporative system monitor drive cycle, exhaust gas recirculation monitor drive cycle and continuous comprehensive component drive cycle are all very different from each other. For me, that last one is always the last monitor to clear.

My wife has a 2006 XK8. Following are the drive cycles that work for me on her car.

Upstream oxygen sensors drive cycle:
-Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature.
-Drive between 3,000 and 4,000 rpm in 3rd gear at a steady speed. Lift foot completely off accelerator and coast to a stop within 30 seconds. Do not touch accelerator for 4 seconds after coming to a stop.
-Repeat the above step.
-Idle engine for 11 minutes.

Downstream oxygen sensors drive cycle:
-Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature.
-Drive the vehicle steady between 30 and 60 mph for 10 minutes.
-Drive above 3,000 rpm in 3rd gear at a steady speed for 2 minutes.
-Lift foot completely off accelerator and coast for 30 seconds.

Oxygen sensor heaters:
-Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature.
-Idle engine for 3 minutes.

Evaporative system monitor drive cycle:
-Ensure the gas cap is fully closed (3 clicks).
-Fuel level must be between 30% and 85%.
-Drive for minimum of 2 minutes until engine is at normal operating temperature.
-Stop the vehicle and switch off the ignition. Leave off for 30 seconds then restart the engine.
-Accelerate briskly to 50 mph ensuring the engine speed reaches a minimum of 3,500 rpm for at least 5 seconds.
-Avoiding high engine loads, drive the vehicle steadily between 40 and 60 mph. Avoid driving conditions where excessive fuel movement will occur. Continue driving in this manner for at least 10 minutes.
-Gently coast the vehicle to a stop. Allow the engine to idle for 2 minutes.

Exhaust gas recirculation monitor drive cycle:
-Start the engine and bring to normal operating temperature.
-Drive the vehicle in 3rd gear at 2,500 rpm. Maintain a steady speed for 1 minute, then lift foot completely off the accelerator and coast for a minimum of 10 seconds.

Continuous comprehensive component drive cycle:
- Fuel level must be between 30% and 85%.
-Start engine from cold, run engine for more than 12 minutes 45 seconds.
-Maintain a road speed between 8 mph and 80 mph for 50 seconds
-Idle for at least 66 seconds.

 

Yeah, No. I can't and won't do that. I'll go back to where I started - the rant - that Jaguar made these cars in a way that they are an impossible headache. No wonder so so many gave up on them. And still do. I suspect Jaguar might have figured they could get some good money forcing customers in for "service" on these cars. Sad way to bean count, in an attempt to balance books.

Thank you for posting/offering all that great info. I REALLY hope you copied and pasted it. Please tell me ya did!?

I'll drive the car. And eventually things will line up I hope.

I'd bet my foot that the Toyota Camry ECU (for instance) works in a much more sensible way to determine whether or not it's emissions systems - are within the specification range for inspection readiness. I would guess most car do.

This is ridiculous.

 

toyota drive cycle is the same stuff bud. these ecms are toyota

stop crying and carry out the drive cycle like everybody else

 

Are you saying that Jaguar, around this era, enjoyed the same reputation for ease of ownership and dependability/reliability as Toyota? As Honda? I think not. Not by any stretch.

People who have such a "passion" for something that they've lost all objectivity, reason and sense of logic even, have always annoyed me. I cannot take them seriously.

BTW, if one looks back at the threads having to do with people/owners trying to complete the drive cycle ("like everyone else") one will find owners suffering the same headaches. In cases repeating the "drive cycle" over and over again to no good result.

The "drive cycle" demands getting the car to drive/operate in ways that its mechanical and electronic systems in the car ITSELF (high RPMs stuck in a gear) work to prevent and doesn't allow. Why would a car company set up a drive cycle in a way that the car was never intended or designed to operate in the first place?

"Bud",,,, lolololol... Ok, yeah, I'll leave that one alone.

 

cope and seethe.

like i said if you don’t know how i/m monitors work..step away from the vehicle go buy something under warranty.


https://justsmogs.com/wp-content/upl...T-EG02-003.pdf

 

So I just glanced at this and, at first glance, I see nothing that corresponds to the description spelled out for the Jaguar (as provided by Jon), unless I am missing something. Toyota even states that if the drive cycles they describe are interrupted, that the drive cycle can be resumed, and most likely with good result. More, I don't see anything about locking the car in a gear and driving it for certain distances at (3500) unusually high RPMs or coasting to loooong stops. What I'm saying is - the Toyota drive cycle approach seems way more straight forward. Doable. Doable, with regular driving even...

Again, if you are suggesting that in terms of reliability and ease of ownership JAGUAR and Toyota from the late 90s early 2000s are equal and comparable, there is something the matter with you, lol... These cars (Jaguars) have been driving people (even Jag dealer mechanics) for decades - from day 1. Toyotas are near the exact opposite, predictable.

More,,, the reason why MILLIONS of people join forums of all sorts, all sorts, is because they often "don't know how *something* works"... To tell me to leave essentially because I don't know how something on a Jaguar works, on a Jaguar forum, well Sir, I think you miss the point of the forum...

Get a grip (lol, like I'm one to talk, haha)...

 

I don't know if its relevant but most shops that deal with emissions and dpf/cat converter problems use drive cycles such as these to clean and re calibrate the system, this is on a lot of different makes, so yeah I've copied and saved

 

If the sensors etc are all working well within spec you can do almost any driving (bearing in mind there are specific requirements for some monitors such as EVAP).

When some monitors don't set despite the above you probably have something marginal or faulty. If marginal, a monitor may set if you do your best to follow the drive cycles.

Always bear in mind the way your laws specify things. They determine various things whether we like that or not.

Also, it is sad but true that many codes cannot be flagged until certain (perhaps all) monitors have set, so you can get a kind of Catch-22.