First off, I'm new to the group and am totally blown away by the amount of information available and especially the comradery demonstrated here. Amazing!

My reason for joining the group is to hopefully find out that I probably do not have a broken timing chain tensioner. I drove my Jag without any problem, parked it in the garage and then tried to start it again 30 minutes later. It coughed, sputtered, and quit. It made some noises but I don't know if I could describe them as the rattling noises normally associated with description of a broken tensioner.

The engine number is 0205101517. From reading other threads this means the engine was manufactured on 5/10/2002 at 3:17 p.m. -- long after the 8/13/2001 date after which the engines were (according to another thread) fitted with metal tensioners meaning, as I read between the lines, that it shouldn't be a tensioner. Correct?

Per recommendations of Moderator Steveinfrance I got a code reader and came up with the 1642 and 1111 which respectively translate to "manufacturer control auxiliary inputs auxiliary outputs" and "manufacturer control fuel air metering" (assuming these code interpretations are correct).

Any suggestions as to where to go from here? Could my problem still be the tensioner and do I dare to try starting the car again? I'm not mechanically inclined and the closest Jag dealer is 100 miles to the South.

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks --

Karl
________________

 

Excellent advice from Steve. Impossible to troubleshoot one of these vehicles without a Code Reader.

Generic descriptions of codes can be misleading and it's best to use the Jaguar DTC Summary List. For the codes you have, this shows:



P1111 is not a fault but an indication that all monitoring tests have been completed since the last memory clear.

With P1642, it's normal to find additional codes indicating which control module is the source of the fault.

That being said, where there's any suspicion of tensioner issues, I wouldn't start the engine until the cam covers have been removed to check.

Graham

 

What reader did you get?
P1642 can result from a joke reader or from plugging the reader in with the engine running.
You MUST plug in first then turn on otherwise some readers screw up the CAN BUS

 

See my thread here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-codes-91090/

I got a P1642 code, in addition to some others and they were "phantom" codes from using an inexpensive code reader with the engine running.

Your rough running could be fuel/air/tensioner related and you may not get any real codes.
Vector

 

Thank you Steve, Graham and Vector. I appreciate your comments. The reader is an Actron PocketScan. I did plug the scanner in before turning the ignition on. Sounds like I'll be pulling the cam covers.

Guess I'd better become more "mechanically inclined". I fly a little Piper Cherokee 140. I've given rides to lots of friends. However, my wife won't go with me. In addition to the fact that she doesn't like small aircraft, she points out the my mountain bike is constantly breaking down because maintenance is not my forte. Maybe she has a point. lol

How likely is it that the problem is the tensioner given that the engine was manufactured after 8/13/01? Have you heard of these going out in engines manufactured after that date?

Thanks again --

Karl

 

hi,
Best advice I can give you is to remove each cam cover. check the timing by aligning the cam flats, and check the type and condition of the tensioners.

If the timing is correct, and the tensioners are ok, then you will have eliminated the worst case scenario. the above is a very easy. I would not consider even turning the engine over until I was sure the timing was correct.

Good Luck

Steveeasy

 

Steve:

That sounds like good advice.

Thanks --

Karl

 

That is the scanner that I have that threw the phantom codes.

As has been said, the only way to really know about the tensioners is to pull a cam cover and take a look.

I soloed in a Piper Warrier/Cherokee 160!
Vector

 

I don't know if you can get your money back on the scanner.
A lot of us use a Bluetooth OBD dongle from EBay and an app called Torque on an android phone.
Works well and gives useful live data like fuel trims which you will probably need.
They have them in stock on EBay UK - it looks like the US ones ship from China unless you want to pay twice the price.

 

Vector, are you still flying? I'm looking to upgrade to a Mooney M20 (I think a "J") that I'll own in partnership. It's a faster airplane, more carrying capacity and the partnership reduces the downside risk. Additionally, I'll be hangared which is a real plus in the winter (and summer for that matter). Blue skies and thanks for the advice.

Steve, I'll try to get my money back on the reader and order the dongle.

The latest. Being apprehensive about my mechanical abilities I, nonetheless, braved removing the right valve cover. Here are a few pics. Looks like the metal tensioner. There's a little bit of slack in the timing chain -- maybe an 1/8th of an inch. I assume this is normal? Also, I'm not sure how to align the cam flats do I crank on this (see pic) and, if so, clockwise or counterclockwise.

Sorry about the dumb questions. However, I've learned the only dumb ones are the ones not asked.

Thanks for your help, guys.

Karl

 

You have the Metal Tensioners.

To rotate the Engine, Use a 24mm Socket on the Crankshaft Bolt and rotate the Crankshaft Clockwise (as viewed looking from front to rear).

Rotate until the Flats on the Camshaft are aligned with each other. They should be in almost perfect Alignment. This view shows the Flats in Alignment.

 

No, not flying anymore. It was a lot of fun though! Mooneys are fast, bro! Good on you!

Glad to see you have the metal tensioners!

The "cam flats" are circled in red in the attached pic.
Vector

 

Thanks Paul and Vector!

I'll have to check the flats tomorrow as I don't 24mm socket. I'm relieved that at least the right side is probably OK. Is the 1/8" or so slack OK? Also, when I put the covers back on do I need to use some kind of sealant? The gasket looks OK.

Vector, I have achieved "empty-nesterhood" and can finally afford to fly again. I don't know your situation but maybe you will some day too. Blue skies!

Once again, thanks to you both.

Karl

 

Is the 1/8" or so slack OK?
Should be OK

Also, when I put the covers back on do I need to use some kind of sealant? The gasket looks OK.
No Sealant should be Used.

 

OK - Thanks, Paul, as for your advice on the slack and sealant.

Karl

 

Well, at least I now know the right side is OK. Metal tensioner and the cams line up. Yeah! Now I'll put that side back together and do the same for the left side. I'm now cautiously optimistic that it's not a tensioner problem.

 

Which of the following dongles are you using?

Interfuse ELM327 V1 5 OBD II Bluetooth Diagnostic Scanner Wireless USB Dongle | eBay

ELM327 V1 5B Bluetooth OBD II Wireless Transceiver Dongle | eBay

OBD II Scan ELM327 V1 5 Bluetooth Car Diagnostic Scanner w Wireless USB Dongle | eBay

 

I'm using this one
Android Torque Mini V1.5 ELM 327 OBD2 OBDII Bluetooth Car Diagnostic Scanner UK | eBay

 

Merci beaucoup, Monsieur Steve.

 

De rien!