XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

2002 XKR with 2001 fuel tank setup?

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Old 01-11-2022, 02:15 PM
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Default 2002 XKR with 2001 fuel tank setup?

I decided to dig in to my fuel sending unit, which makes the fuel gauge drop to empty once I have burned 1/4 of a tank. Since my convertible XKR is a 2002 model I was expecting to see the fuel sending unit attached to the back of the gas tank in the trunk. Instead I found this:

With a sticker that says 2001 on it:

So it appears that the sending unit I'd need would be W0133-1657525 rather than LJE2001AC, and I'll need to pull the gas tank out to install it.
Does this sound right?
Thanks!
 
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Old 01-11-2022, 02:26 PM
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I'm thinking about throwing a resistor on there temporarily until I get time to remove the tank so it shows as full instead of empty and doesn't have that annoying red light on the dash... Has anyone done that, and what value did you use?
 
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Old 01-11-2022, 10:24 PM
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The 2001/2 electrical guide (look in stickies - DIY and repair/maintenance, DOWNLOADS link to a mediafire server with the large download files), fig 08.1 shows the fuel level sensor is a 1 k ohm potentiometer, reading 80 ohm at full, and 900 ohm at empty
 
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Old 01-12-2022, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Silver2002XKR
I decided to dig in to my fuel sending unit, which makes the fuel gauge drop to empty once I have burned 1/4 of a tank. Since my convertible XKR is a 2002 model I was expecting to see the fuel sending unit attached to the back of the gas tank in the trunk. Instead I found this:

With a sticker that says 2001 on it:

So it appears that the sending unit I'd need would be W0133-1657525 rather than LJE2001AC, and I'll need to pull the gas tank out to install it.
Does this sound right?
Thanks!
I don't know what you'll (or others) will think about this BUT, I simply used a small grinding wheel, cut a smallish access square in the back deck, and access(ed) the pumps and assembly that way.

NOTE: The section/panel I cut I did not cut and completely remove. I left it attached at the cabin to boot VENTS which allows one to tip the new "access panel" up enough to access the pump assembly... I can change or access the pump in 15min today. Jus say'n.
 
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Old 01-12-2022, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by JayJagJay
I don't know what you'll (or others) will think about this BUT, I simply used a small grinding wheel, cut a smallish access square in the back deck, and access(ed) the pumps and assembly that way.

NOTE: The section/panel I cut I did not cut and completely remove. I left it attached at the cabin to boot VENTS which allows one to tip the new "access panel" up enough to access the pump assembly... I can change or access the pump in 15min today. Jus say'n.
I've seen that done with coupes, but not with a convertible... were there any issues relating to the construction of the convertible that made the process different, or is it as easy to cut the access panel on a convertible as it is on a coupe? If so, that sounds like a great idea!
 
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Old 01-12-2022, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Silver2002XKR
I've seen that done with coupes, but not with a convertible... were there any issues relating to the construction of the convertible that made the process different, or is it as easy to cut the access panel on a convertible as it is on a coupe? If so, that sounds like a great idea!
Don't have a coupe and never worked on one, but from what I understand, removing the subwoofer from the back deck can give good access... That's all I got
 
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Old 01-12-2022, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Silver2002XKR
I've seen that done with coupes, but not with a convertible... were there any issues relating to the construction of the convertible that made the process different, or is it as easy to cut the access panel on a convertible as it is on a coupe? If so, that sounds like a great idea!
Oh, sorry. To the question. It's a tight space, a good angle grinder - the smaller style - is what I used. Plenty of towels or some material to protect the headliner etc... Just make sure you have used what line of site from the trunk (I recommend removing the brace plate for the tank) to know the exact plan of attack. You don't want a mis cut. I'll see if I can get some snaps of the hole I made and post them up. It reminds me, I've been neglectful, that I really need to get in there and use the industrial foil tape I have to "seal up" the edges on the cut. Really though, if the uncut sections are done with some care, the "panel" just fits nicely back down inside of the edges made when cutting. Honestly, I have zero regrets for having done it this way as I have had to be back in there many times (a flood car) in the process of bringing this car back to life.
 
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