Hey Lads,
As always seems to be the case for me, I do a search on something I believe to be simple and go down rabbit holes and reams of unrelated google hits. I can't find the exact intel that I need to move forward properly here so hopefully - other 2003 owners can help?

Non SC car
Ran perfectly up until the other day. Went out to leave and the car wouldn't start. Cannot hear fuel pump priming.
Went online to track down the relays and fuses associated and its all convoluted. In my rear relay panel there are 3 relays set vertically and then 4 relays set horizontally. I say 4 but in reality, my car has the first relay spot empty. These are the brown relays of course.
Since my car is not SC'd, I only have one fuel pump relay but cannot determine which relay it is. From what I have read on line - it moves around from year to year so someone please enlighten me. Also, can someone please tell me where the fuses related to the fuel pump are located? I know the kneejerk is to post a nice image of drawings found online but I have poured through dozens of them. Looking for specifics on the 2003 car only please.

So there was no warning about this.
I did a reset on the inertia switch even though I didn't know how that would help. I also disconnected the battery and basically reset everything on the car. I know - but without any tools, it was worth a try. So either a fuse or relay has failed or the fuel pump went out in a blaze of glory. Car didn't even try to stumble.
I did have my laptop and cable so I hooked up the SDD software which isn't very useful on the 2003 and got a code P15XX. Can't remember right now but it was the one relating to flight recorder data being stored. I also took a look at the fuel rail pressure while trying to start the car and was only seeing 0.500 psi on the rail. Is that maybe just pumping pressure with a dead pump? When I key the car on, I have absolutely zero rail pressure.

Assuming that the pump has indeed failed, I was a bit horrified by the amount of work required to access it. I used to own a Porsche 928S and the fuel level sender unit could be accessed viz a hole in the hatch area. Was wondering if anyone had ever tried this on the XK8 as a means to access the fuel pump without needing to pull the tank? Then there is the dreaded fuel line release and reinstall. I dunno, since the car's value ain't going north anytime soon, I personally wouldn't have any issue cracking out the hole saw and making one in the area behind the rear seats to access the fuel pump from there. Just wondering if anyone else has done this? The other issue is that the car is at my GF's place and it is a HOA facility that obviously frowns on cars on jacks in the parking lot. If I could somehow work this from inside the car, I may be able to sidestep a tow charge.

Porsche 928 fuel sender access pic for reference.

 

Owners have indeed opted to cut the hole in order to access the fuel pump in the tank. There are some posts that show photos of exactly where folks have cut these access holes....

Wayne (cjd777) and I replaced the fuel pump in his 2000 XK8 back in January. We opted not to cut the hole and to slide the fuel tank back instead. The biggest challenge was disconnecting and then reconnecting the two fuel lines underneath the car. A 22-inch long-and-skinny flathead screwdriver from Harbor Freight made that job easier and faster for Wayne....

 

Hi Bernie,

2003 on the fuelling system changed considerably. From the 2003 Service Training guide:

Fuel Pump
To support the installation of the 4.2-liter engines and continuing the drive for fuel
consumption benefits, a new fuel system including fuel tank, fuel pump, pipes, breather
pipes has been installed.
The XK now benefits from the use of the return-less fuel delivery system very similar to the
X-Type and S-TYPE models.
One major change on supercharged (S/C) variants is the use of only one fuel pump instead
of the usual two as used on all previous S/C models (XJR, XKR and S-TYPE R).


There's still a fuse - F5 (30A) in the trunk fusebox, but the relay is now a 'Fuel Pump Module', located in the trunk:



Check out this thread from JayJagJay. There's some more information, including some pin-point checks:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...3/#post2167849

Bad news is that there's no aftermarket pump available, so you need to be sitting down when you check the cost.

 

Thank you so much!
Knowing that the 2003 was the first of many changes to the XK8, I figured it would present some oddball approaches to doing things.
First, I want to confirm that the system in front of the pump is doing what it is supposed to so the thread you linked me to is perfect as a reference. If I do need to replace the pump, I will opt to find a good used one instead. Not something I think I would do if I didn't have an alternative to the conventional way of getting to the fuel pump.

 

I did find a couple of posts that were quite thorough in their description of the process.
Gotta run out and get me a 8.25" hole saw lol.
Thank you!

 

totally cut the back after that its a 40min job there is a gap between the body and the tank now even after removing the rear seats and cutting the hole its still tight and uncomfortable (all this assumes convertible)

 

Before cutting (and DO cut, anything else is just masochistic) and anything else really, there are two wires (from memory, red and yellow red) at a connection point just to the upper RH side of the fuel tank back (in the boot)... Discon the white plug, it holds a few other wires that go to the top of the tank into the sending unit area... Apply some voltage to these two leads and listen for the pump. This bypasses everything that could go wrong (other systems) involved in getting the pump to turn, and if it's ok, it will turn no matter what. Jus my 2 cents... 12v and a good ground.

HellO Mich,,,
The 03 Portfolio is in the shop. Park Auto Group on Staten Island. Just dropped it oft (towed) today. Key still not spinning the starter relay and NOT engaging the pump via the PWM fueling system... Lol, pray for me! I dropped it off with a second SCLM, 2 compatible fuel pump modules and 2 extra key transponder modules... omgoodness... They better call me with some good news. In the mean time,,, 400+ miles planned for the Lady, Me and the XJS this weekend. AC system working for the FIRST TIME EVER, lol...! What do ya know? Ya win some and ya lose some

What a painful hobby!

 

Sorry. I should have added this the first time.

Also, fuel pumps for the 2003 and after (I'm not sure if it's the same for SC and Non SC cars) are not impossible to find. The pump WILL come out of the plastic bucket which is reusable... Look on eBay and write (like crazy,,, just copy and paste your message) to sellers who have xk8/r parts and they can hook you up. The VDO pump for the PWM fueling system is a PITA to find but they can be found.

I HATE what some of these companies are charging us just because they know they can. I fight to stay away from the games of mark up... That's just me.

 

Thanks a lot for this information!
Was actually going to do a couple of tests today and would have been looking for this intel.
I found several used pumps on ebay in the 130.00 range. If I had to change the pump in the traditional manner, I would never consider putting a used pump in there but since it would be a heck of a lot easier to change again if the used pump were to fail prematurely, I don't have an issue with taking the risk. Once I get the old pump out of there, I am going to tear it apart and see what the guts look like and what potentially could drop in that assembly. Its a PWM setup, it comes down to 12V at the pump like all the rest so I assume it might be possible to drop something else in there.

I will update this thread as I progress

Bernie

 

Get a number for and call Walbro Pump company... I have been wrestling with fuel pump problems for a spell. I think (am pretty sure) my pump problems are more complicated than just a bad pump BUT I got a little education (key word, little) and it's not so simple to just drop any old pump in there with the PWM set up. Again, I could be wrong on that as,,,, well it's a long story.

One thing is for sure, and this is just me, had I found a pump that would work (again, the pump is not my main problem) I would (and will if need be) drop a pump in that bucket with a new sock filter, punch a hole or two into the bucket and zip tie it to the bucket frame to keep it still. 420$ for the pump assembly,,, it's nutts. Nope not me...

Looking forward to hearing what you discover on this journey. Best O luck to ya. Keep posting!

 

Hey Guys,

So for now, I have purchased a used pump - fingers crossed.
Does anyone know the size of the fuel line removal tool needed?
Going to fabricate my own removal / insertion tools

Bernie

 

Bernie, When you buy a set of tools for removing the lines, there will be a full range of sizes.
On the two pipe system on the 2000, it was the Gray one. They are all different colors.
Stop by HF and buy the 22 inch screwdriver set. It will help push the remover into the slot. The Phillips comes in handy for other jobs.

 

a used pump???? what????

 

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<ON CUTTING THE BACK BY THE FUEL PUMP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
look fellas you cut the back if you choose to in a nice perfect square then after all is good you make a nice square cover slightly bigger surround the outside edge with rubber then make a door with hinges do it right it looks factory or as good as a one off

 

Relisimone, tell us please, what did you use to cut a square?
I've been planning to use a hole saw when my pump dies whenever that might be. I'd imagine the clearance under the self is small so a jig saw is out. Did you figure a way that's easier and less messy than a hole saw with a super short arbor? Tell us more.

John

 

Hey Guys,

I finished the work on my fuel pump and it has been a success.
Since I was in a bind to get this done (car was stuck at girlfriends HOA condo) I didn't get to taking any photos but I can do a quick once-over to help others.

DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY BEFORE DOING ANY OF THIS WORK!
THERE WILL BE EXPOSED LIQUID AND VAPOR FUEL

- Went with the hole in the rear deck as others have done. Purchased a 8.25" hole saw (rather big and heavy from Amazon about 45.00) and a 90 degree cordless drill (Harbor Freight for 69.00 as I already had the battery pack). Other tools I needed were:
Phillips screwdriver / 10mm socket on ratchet (both to remove the rear seat for access). Two 10mm nuts hold the seat bottom in and 2 x phillips head screws secure the back rest (in that order of removal)
Once seat was out, I removed the left / right stiffening bar that is now exposed to give me better access (4 x 10 or 12mm IIRC). Once removed I laid a loading blanket across all of the exposed metal and seat bottom to prevent myself from getting cut and also to protect the area from the upcoming debris.
The rear deck lid is really thin aluminum so it takes nothing to get through it. I did remove the protecting metal cover in the trunk so I could check a couple of times how close the centering drill bit was getting to the top of the assembly. Never got close enough with my assembly to worry about it.
Once the hole is cut and the assembly is exposed, you have to get the evap hoses (3) disconnected. I pushed all the clamps onto the metal pipe side to clear them and the using some WD40 to assist, pushed the connecting hoses across to the other side until they were free from the evap connections on the pump assembly. I highly recommend not loosening up the pump assembly prior to doing this as those short little hoses would be a total bitch to get off without some solid way to push on things. Also be mindful that the evap fittings are plastic and could break. Mine were fine
Oh, and before going any further, get the shop vac out to vacuum up all of the shrapnel from making the hole. You don't want that crap falling into the tank after you remove the pump assembly
So now the assembly is clear to remove it. I used a large flathead screwdriver and a small mallet to rotate the locking ring (counter-clockwise). It only needs to turn about 5-10 degrees to release the ring. I also slid that ring out onto the metal evap lines for storage.
List that evap cover up about 4-5 inches and you will see that there is an electrical connection that needs to be unlocked before you can remove it. Simply depress the little tang on the connector and remove it (it is what powers the fuel pump)
Remove that from the car and take a break.
If you are unlucky (as I was) your tank is nearly full of gas and I had no way to drain it. My fix was grabbing a pair of my girlfriends heavy duty rubber gloves that went up high enough on my arms to protect my skin from the fuel. That **** burns if you don't cover your skin (ask me how I know). Once protected, reach into the tank and find a clear space to securely grip the pump assembly (lots of small-ish bits that you don't want to put pressure on like plastic hoses and such). At this point you will rotate the entire assembly about 10-20 degrees I believe again counter-clockwise to release the assembly from the locking tangs welded to the bottom of the tank. There are no bolts or anything to remove - its a twist-lock setup. Now the assembly is free of the tank but the primary fuel line is not. You now have access to reach your hand into the tank and get it to around the 5:00 mark and you will feel the fuel line. Trace that to where it terminates in the tank and there will be a fitting that holds it to the spigot in the tank. Press in on both sides of the connector and it will release. Now the assembly is completely disconnected and you can fish it out. Be very careful of the fuel level float and also have a bucket or towel to catch fuel when you get it out of the tank.

So now you are staring at the entire assembly and if you dropped the 800 bucks or so, you don't need to do much other than put the new assembly in. In my instance, I bought a used pump on ebay for 150.00 and the assembly itself was trashed. Didn't matter as I only wanted the actual pump from it.
First thing is to gingerly pry the electrical connections from the top of the pump. Since this pump was dead I didn't care about where I levered from but stay away from levering on the plastic outer assembly in fear of cracking it.
The pump lives inside the plastic assembly and you have to be mindful that this is all plastic that has probably weakened considerably over the years submersed in fuel. You will immediately think of pressing back on the 3 large clips that hold the inner plastic assembly into the main assembly but I didn't go that route as I believed that too much flexing of the plastic was involved and probably was going to crack. So if you look closely, you will see that the actual metal pump lives inside a second plastic sleeve. In this sleeve, it is secured by only one multiple tang plastic clip. It takes a little figuring but you can push back on the outside tang (1 of the 3 big ones) while simultaneously pushing the inner tang away from the metal pump. When you get it right, the entire metal pump can be pushed from the bottom and out of the assembly.

If you got a used pump like I did, you will see the old score marks on it from where it was originally pushed into the plastic assembly. This will be your guide when you put the replacement pump in there to get things aligned so it slides back into the strainer at the bottom of the assembly. Don't worry, you will see it once the old pump is out.
So now you have to get the corrugated hose off of the old pump and there is a crimped hose clamp on there. Since I did not have either the tool or the clamps, I opted to just get myself some small stainless steel regular clamps at the autoparts store.
I used a pair of side cutters on the compressed part of the clamp to chew away at it and it only took about 30 seconds to cut and twist it until it broke free. I then tried to pry the line off of the old nipple but I wasn't getting anywhere with that and I was damaging the line so I opted to just crack the nipple right off the old pump and then using a pair of pliers, crushed the nipple by squeezing the line (didn't take much effort - its plastic). Once crushed, I was able to simply dump the pieces out of the end.

Hose now goes on replacement pump and a regular stainless hose clamp locks it on.
The pump gets lined up via those aforementioned score marks and the assembly will just slide into the assembly and strainer and clip into place.
Put the 2 electrical wires back on and the assembly is ready to go.

Putting it back in, you reverse what you did to remove it. The only issue I had - especially with the fuel in the tank was getting the tangs in the tank to line up with the slots on the bottom of the assembly. This was the only frustrating part for me because I was fishing around with so much fuel in the tank and you can't see anything from the tight space you are in - you have to fish around with your hands.
The fuel line gets reattached first - yup, fish around until you find the nipple in the tank and securely click that sucker on there. Then, gently get rotate the assembly around until you get things lined up and turn the assembly clockwise until it will not turn anymore. Check to make sure you got solid purchase on the all of the tangs by gently rocking the assembly around a bit.
If that's all good, go grab the evap assembly and plug the electrical connector back in. The assembly can now be placed and the locking ring reinstalled (oh -don't forget the large o-ring that seals the top).
Now from the trunk, you can use a little more WD40 on those evap rubber connecting hoses and blunt instrument to push them back onto the plastic nipples on the evap cap.
Long needle nose pliers work well to squeeze and place the clamps back. And you're done.

I reconnected the battery (don't forget to reset your windows before doing anything else)
Turned the ignition on and off a few times to get the system primed again and voila - started right up.

Couple of thoughts on this project -
1 - Although I have never done this job the traditional way, I have done enough work to see that cutting this hole was obviously the right choice. We aren't cutting into Ferrari's here
2 - The rear deck lid is of course a barrier between the passenger compartment and the fuel tank but only for fire I suspect and not vapor since there are open pill-shaped vent holes all across the top of the deck anyway. I will for certain cut a disk out of aluminum and reseal the hole for the future.
3 - Cutting the hole (which I hope I will never see again) made it ok to take a risk on a used fuel pump. Doing it the first time always takes longer but I bet I could replace that pump again in an hour now if I needed to. If I had to go through the trouble of the factory method with the special tools, jacking the car up, dealing with the tight spaces releasing fuel lines under the car, etc., I would definitely have bit the bullet on a new unit. As it stands, this job cost me about 300.00 including the tools I needed and you could always get a loaner on the 90 degree drill. The 8.25" hole saw is yours for a souvenir now lol.

I hope that this write-up - coupled with the photos already taken and links already provided in this thread become helpful to anyone else needing to replace their fuel pump.
Glad I did it this way.

 

Here's hoping that the used fuel pump will go the duration of your ownership period....

 

Well well well done, Old Boy!!! Good show.
I did the exact same thing and this approach makes total sense. Why jaguar didn't design an access here (which would make life SO simple for everyone) beats me...

And, like he said. Even if the new/used pump bites the dust it takes like 20 30 minutes to swap it out... No biggie.

Now, the challenge is to find a pump made by say, Walbro, that can be used NEW, as an alternative to the VDO pump - which ain't easy to find.

Great stuff Man! And thank you!

 

Well well well done, Old Boy!!! Good show.
I did the exact same thing and this approach makes total sense. Why jaguar didn't design an access here (which would make life SO simple for everyone) beats me...

And, like he said. Even if the new/used pump bites the dust it takes like 20 30 minutes to swap it out... No biggie.

Now, the challenge is to find a pump made by say, Walbro, that can be used NEW, as an alternative to the VDO pump - which ain't easy to find.

Great stuff Man! And thank you!

 

My pleasure.
I enjoy giving back whenever I can.

Yeah, as mentioned, there is the pump assembly (all the plastic bits, float, evap) and then there is simply the pump itself.
Strip away all that other stuff and there is no reason why this little VDO pump should be ultimately costing us 600-800 dollars surrounded by a bunch of gak we do not need to replace?
I did keep the old pump so I can take measurements and have something to reference to. Maybe VDO would simply sell the pump on its own part number? Not sure if anyone has tried and of course, I am well-versed in how suppliers protect such parts from circumnavigating around the people they supply to.
At worst, replacing with a used fuel pump will get me some miles at least. Its been a few days and nothing to report - car runs fine.