No matter what I do I cannot get the message on the dash,,, "BOOT OPEN" to go off. I've removed and opened the little micro switch on the latch unit - clicks and closes, light will go out when pressed and when completely unplugged. Replaced the little auto actuator on the RH side of the trunk compartment (button on dash will not work for boot or fuel door actuators), manually clicked the latch into closed position, nothing. Boot message remains. Pushed in the spring loaded rod to the right of the U latch/catch on the boot lid. It's all,,, bad. Message remains.

Is there some secret switch deeper in the latch I'm missing?

Every other hood, doors read well and right when closed. What deals with these signals to the dash display?

Need a little help here please...
Thanks in advance.

 

With that combination, it could be harness break(s) where it flexes at the luggage compartment lid hinge. With opening and closing over the years, individual wires within the harnes are known to break at or near where it is clipped to the hinge.

Graham

 

JayJagJay,

I had what best can be described as a fiasco when trying to fix what I initially thought was a simple problem with no interior trunk lights. On this Forum, the microswitch is a common "flakey" issue, and my initial fix was replacing the microswitch and the diode (inexpensive ford bit). Note the microswitch is normally open (ie off) when the boot lid is shut. Position of the microswitch is important as it snaps firmly in place on the latch. The little plastic clasp on the microswitch body is easily broken.



After my initial fix, I now had both trunk lights were now working but my new problem was I had the Boot Open message. So....Hmmm... electrical connections must be fine, and I made sure the trunk lights went out when I closed the lid. So the Microswitch was working properly. So I dug into the issue further.

See excerpt from Electrical Guide below.



On the LHS of the fig, is the Body Processing Module (BPM) which basically controls a lot of interior lights from one branch. Ouch!

So looking at the diagram, the trunk lights do not go to the car's electrical ground, but to a signal ground (ie generated by the BPM) so my understanding is that the BPM's voltage/current draw must determine if the trunk is open or closed by a BPM's logic "process thingie". Only thing I noticed was that that the two bulbs (glass fuse types) in my car were different. So dug out the two from my scrap donor car, and put them into my car and problem was sorted. Cool!

I did notice that the level of LUX light emitted from these scrap OEM bulbs was a lot less than the "bad" ones I had in the car, so I'm kind of guessing that the bad out of spec "bulbs" was making the car's logic think the voltage drop/current draw is the Switch off/BOOT OPEN. What complicates the matter, for me to know exactly what I did to fix the issue, was that I was also repairing a lot of electrical gremlins at the time ie the sun visors' vanity mirrors' lights at the same time as the trunk lights. As shown by the electrical diagram above, the sun visor vanity mirrors are on the same branch off the BPM. So it could have been just been a complete coincidence.

 

Awesome! Thank you both so much... I'll go in both of these directions...

Much of what goes into figuring out problems in this machine is counter intuitive...

I have one stone worker (I think that is the jaguar name) all together. I have a replacement, I think.

And, as much as it pains me, I will definitely check out the hinge point at the wiring harness and all of it, for that matter. Lol,,, shoot, I'm already behind every doggone panel of this thing, might as well be nose to boot. Snout to tail - lil piggie

Hoping it's one of these things,,, great help guys. Thank you!

 

Hmm. So, I didn't go and pull the whole harness today, perhaps tomorrow...

​​​​​I did although pull the innards out of the micro switch, carefully, and was able to tab it off and on. The stone worker lights would go off and on accordingly... BOOT OPEN message remained on dash, no matter...

The button on the boot lid itself doesn't work, either.

I guess I need to unbolt it and see what's going on behind (on the other side of) the chassis panel and pull it out completely...? The auto open boot release on the dash will not work and doesn't seem to have power in boot. I DO have power at the button on the dash tho, I freed up and got the fuel door working today, but no dice on the boot actuator...

What I couldn't see or understand was/is what exactly trips the micro switch on boot lid close! Is there a second half of it BEHIND the latch and it's plate? Tomorrow will tell, hopefully. It's super annoying. I should have tested on my xk8 today. Q: If the SCLM is being told the boot is open,,, will it send a signal to the boot unlocking actuator? Or, does it kill it's functioning until it thinks the boot is closed?

What a thing. To think,,,, this is going to be one of those things (in this ocean of things) that will never get solved, lol

CrazyMaker ~ maybe it MUST be the harness. Is there a relay between the dash bottom and the boot?

 

JayJagJay,

Well you're right in that the X100 can have counter intuitive problems, which is why I think when owners have no trunk lights, they just let it be and live with it.

In my research during my fiasco, for my 99MY, I found the dash switch was linked to the Dimmer Module (located in the passenger side dash fascia fuse box) and the trunk switch was linked to the Security Locking Control Module (in the trunk). See excerpts from my Electrical Guide below.





As these are all seem connected to BPMs, I can only guess at the logic process.

 

Thank you MUCH, David...

It's 7am and I'm headed back out... I think it possible,,, and I pray, that for the dimmer, all that connection is about is controlling the small light in the module... The connection to the SCLM,,, well that's a different story - leaves me skerd, lol...

I'm going to dig around a little more today,,, and apprehensively/reluctantly dig into the boot lid, and such. I don't want to deal with another panel and all of those little fasteners,,, unless I absolutely have to. I'm not exaggerating,,, I have removed nearly EVERY panel in this thing, attempting to get at one thing or another...

I can't say that it has not been FUN, tho...

Also,,, I am beyond being concerned about whether or not it's possible to completely bring this car back to life. Looking forward to spring, top down, and hearing those pipes. Lol, the PO added some nice stuff!

 

Today was one of those day where I touched so many things I don't know what fixed the broke! Lol.

Anyways, I removed about a 3rd of the boot lid liner and got to the wires... OMG what a PITA... Pulled wires out and began moving covers around after removing tape. Nothing. I checked resistance with my DMM,,, showed reading across length of wire. I don't know if that's what's called continuity... RePLUGGED but not tucked in.

Removed boot lid facade with the license plate lights and the button. Button made changes on my MM when I toggled the button, not that...

Removed catch on the chassis and gave it a cleaning the best I could with Berkebile 2+2 Gum Cutter... Good solvent and gum cutter.

Unplugged SCLM, cleaned both the plug and receiver ends well with electric cleaner and a nylon brush,,, and low and behold. Change. I don't know what I did exactly, but I plugged everything back up and it worked. Good! Now,,, the 1000 other things, lol

I don't know why this "FIX" mattered so much. But it did. The thought of a future with the boot thing flashing in my face, not being able to use the button and always needing the key to unlock the boot, was just Toooooo much, lol

Thank you all... Forward forward, now...

~~~ Damn locks don't actuate and my large flaps, I think recirculating flaps, don't move and,,, trying to give the flap on the RH side a tug to unstick it,,, I broke the little white clip on the damn arm... Now it's just flopping around!!! How on Earth am I going to ragged fingers up in there, lol??? Sounds like a NEW thread. This damn car!!!

And,,,, what is this???? Any hints would be greatly appreciated.

 

I think that's either a seat belt pre-tensioner control module/occupancy sensor module or an airbag control module. Where did you find it?

Cheers,

Don

 

Hey, ​​​​​thanks! A little ashamed to admit,,, it was just laying around, in the passengers footwell... The seats had been removed, there bases destroyed by water. Upper backs ok, but anyways... Does it attach to the seats themselves, or under the dash somewhere, if you know...? I couldn't find a home for it.